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ghetdjc320

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Everything posted by ghetdjc320

  1. ghetdjc320
    It’s the wrong fastener used. Even the oem bolt is wrong.
  2. ghetdjc320
    Too much talk about repairing the damage vs fixing the underlying issue. Jeep did not use the correct bolt for the track bar and the hardware store probably does NOT have what you need. Yes a grade 8 bolt will last a while longer and yes you could use a larger bolt and sleeve size. Still is t the right fastener for the application. Great explanation video
  3. ghetdjc320
    Floor pans finally came in! Going to set aside a few days to tackle this.
  4. ghetdjc320
    And it’s gone… That was cheap
  5. ghetdjc320
    I think the large one may be a seat bracket cover
  6. ghetdjc320
    The BMB bolt has the threads on the bolt the same diameter as the shank with makes for a tighter fit. No typical hardware store bolt has this. This issue comes from both a very flimsy metal in the axle side track bar mount as @Pete M mentioned and a poor fitment of the standard factory bolt inside the bushing. The washer fix is a good one. Just need the right size bolt as well (one that does not under size the threads even one .001” vs the shank diameter. Few bolts have those specs, thus the BMB kit.
  7. ghetdjc320
  8. ghetdjc320
  9. ghetdjc320
    Comancheap Just my $.03
  10. ghetdjc320
    Leaving them on looks like a hack job. They probably won’t interfere though. Seriously though, take the effort to cut them off and cleanup the tube
  11. ghetdjc320
    What causes the oblong holes in the first place is the tiny bit of slip between the bolt and the bushing sleeve. The BMB kit fixes the underlying problem, not the damage that has been done after the fact.
  12. ghetdjc320
    By the way, here are the gear ratios for the AW4: 2.8 1.53 1.0 .75 AX15 3.83 2.33 1.44 1.0 .79 The unique thing to remember with an automatic is the torque converter, which in effect produces a sort of lower version of each gear. Top end highway speeds are very similar with both options. In practice, they both have a very similar effective first gear as well when the torque converter is factored in. Both are great tranny’s for our Jeep’s imho.
  13. ghetdjc320
    4.88’s are great. 4.56 with an ax15 with stroker on 35’s was also nice but I could definitely have used 4.88’s though and that’s with plenty of long highway drives,
  14. ghetdjc320
    Just as an option, I used a rubber floor plug and some urethane sealant. Works great. Put a small “drip loop” in the antenna cable before it enters the cab also.
  15. ghetdjc320
    I haven’t gone a drop over 210 pulling my jet ski through the mountain passes in Guam with my AC on… the mishimoto radiator or novak is where it’s at. I’ve tried others, oem, csf, spectra. Nothing cools like the mishimoto has. Plus a threaded magnetic drain plug, 19psi cap, perfect welds, and (2) decent size cores with a higher fins per inch count than most. Oh, and lifetime warranty. Cold Case if you want to save a bit more coin. Novak if you only ever want to but once.
  16. ghetdjc320
    the old Griffin jeepspeed radiator was probably the best production unit available but isn’t around anymore. Very pricey though
  17. ghetdjc320
    I’ve been through all these options before. Here is the combo that just works: oem water pump, oem tstat, oem hoses with the spring in the lower hose, oem tstat housing, oem 10 blade mech fan, oem shroud, Napa 2.5l fan clutch, oem late XJ e fan, mishimoto or novak radiator. There are certain situations where other options are better but for a stock or near stock rig nothing will cool it better than the above recipe. FYI mishimoto is on Amazon
  18. ghetdjc320
    Addco rear bar is complete and on the way! My ocean freight finally arrives this week. Going to be cutting out the floors soon. Not looking forward to it but I’m going after any and all rust even if it’s just surface rust.
  19. ghetdjc320
    Awesome! Glad you got it fixed
  20. ghetdjc320
    Check your axle tube, it may be bent just enough
  21. ghetdjc320
    The side cam gears may not be fully seated. Lunchbox lockers can be a bit finicky until the axle shafts are installed.
  22. ghetdjc320
    I’d recheck the Spartan locker install. Make sure the cross pin is fully set and that your springs and cam gears are all lined up. Try shining a light down the axle tube and see if you can clearer see all the splines on the side gears through the tube. Regarding the axle seal, does it have a metal cone on one side to guide in and center the axle shaft? The trick with adding those oem seals to the cad housing is just getting it completely square. The seals-it seal fits much better in the bore and holds a much better seal.
  23. ghetdjc320
    Curious as to the WJ hubs. It was my understanding that they could not be used in a XJ/YJ/TJ/MJ housing due to not properly centering the u joint axis in a turn. How are they working out for you? if they didn’t chew up u joints they would make fore a simple wheel bolt pattern change. I also run JL wheels but with adapters
  24. ghetdjc320
    They fit just fine if your inner C was not damaged by a botched install from a previous owner/shop. I love Moog parts but on these axles you want the Dana/Spicer 706944X. They have consistently outlasted the moog/precision joints 2:1 with big tires and/or lots of wheeling
  25. ghetdjc320
    First off, what locker did you install? Also, what seal did you use? In CAD housings, seals-it seals work fantastic since, as you mentioned, the housing isn’t really machined for a good seal there on the cad axles.
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