ghetdjc320

I run a built D35. There are some advantages to running one also. I’ve been down the road of axle builds more times than I like to recall. Started with 8.8’s and built several. Then I went to 44’s and built a few of those also. A D44 is a nice axle to build if you have one already (especially an XJ/MJ original) and would like to run 35’s out of the box or 37’s with mods. However, consider this: The D35 is the right width, lightweight and offers the most clearance. The carrier bearings like a fair bit of preload but I have yet to have one break down that I’ve built. And I am by no means conservative when it comes to tapping the power of my built 4.0. Some of the key things to consider are tire diameter diameter AND width. I run metric 33’s which turn out around a 33.5x10.75. I run a truetrac, 27 spline 1541 shafts from Revolution, and a full ZJ disk kit. Pre 90 D35’s are even non-c-clip axles and have the same housing ends as a D44. Most have the same tube diameter and thickness as well. The thing to keep in mind is that running 33’s on a D35 is about the same clearance as running 35’s under an 8.8. And you can run 35’s on a D35 with a super 35 kit from Revolution (formerly Superior Axle). Others make copies of that kit also. 35’s on a super 35 is one very nice axle setup. Lots of clearance and a low unsprung weight. And y you could even run 4140 chromo axles in the non-c-clip axles. 1541 in the C-clip ones works great as well.

SMS headliners is still making new MJ headliners. Have one in my truck and they are great

So, I have exactly what your looking for. It’s a 92 police package XJ electric speedo in a full 91 HO cluster. No metric gauges and it’s a full cluster including rpm. Also has a new Mopar voltmeter. I’ve been considering a Holley efi gauge swap to go along with my stand alone setup. I’m not 100% that I’m going through with it but if I do it will be for sale. About 12xxxx miles on the odometer.

Good to hear. I might grab some also

Run 30wt motor oil in it. Seriously, works great.

Maybe a power sports battery would work. I’ve run some 380cca agm batteries in jet skis before. lithium batteries save a ton of weight also. XS makes some nice lithium power sports batteries

And they are all coming from Toledo. My NOS coin was also from Toledo.

This item is the sellers most expensive auction lol

I’d guess $380 or so. I’ve seen them go for $399 before though several years ago.

It’s an extensive swap as you will have to address your track bar mounting point as well as your sway bar link mounts. The stinky fan off-road kit has most of what you need but is pricey. If you do end up doing the WJ swap, I’ll take the old knuckles if you don’t want them. The parts list you have is good. You’ll also need a new drag link and tie rod, sway bark link mounts and track bar mount for the axle side to raise the track bar to be Parral el with the drag link. *If* your only looking for big brakes, then go with a Wilwood kit. Better brakes than the WJ swap and no major changes needed. Your knuckles have the big bolt on caliper lugs that work for big brake kits. Newer knuckles don’t have this. The WJ knuckles have a similar caliper mounting system.

I meant the track bar mount. It will need to be equal to the pitman arm drop ultimately

Good to know . However, I believe the OP never mentioned it was dying. Only that when it was shutoff it would not crank back up until it cooled down. It sounds like, up until that point it was running fine even though it was hot/at operating temp.

Good to know! How far does it drop it?

Interesting build! Looking forward to see how it goes

Only use the stock pitman arm unless you plan on relocating the track bar mount

As I said, I’m no renix expert. However, generally, with efi, the cps provides for ignition timing only. It’s not used for fueling. So if the OP has a fueling issue then an out of range cts is a possible culprit. This is common with exponential rate cts sensor sweeps. If the cps fails when heat soaked then wouldn’t lightly spraying some water on the sensor get it going again? Same goes for the cts. Either way, we’re assuming that heat is the issue so accelerating the cooling of sensors may provide a quick diagnosis.

It is on many vehicles

Bosch icons with 97+ wiper arms here

The question everyone will ask as it is really the determining factor here is: what size tires are you going to run?

the trick is the lift in the rear. You will need 4.5” lift rear springs. Very few places make such a thing. Hells Creek or custom are some of the few options. 3.5-5” is a tough range to shoot for. Taller or lower can be obtained with off the shelf components. Flipping the stock springs over the rear axle gains about 5.5” and some of the stock replacement springs gain between 2-3”. The front is pretty much just an XJ lift.

It’s likely the wiper ground that needs to be cleaned up/replaced. Had the same issue on my 91.

Your problem sounds much more like a coolant temp sensor to me. It leans out the mixture when the engine warms up. If it’s failing, it can lean it to the point of no start. I’ll mention again that I’m no renix expert so I may be off on this. But coolant temp is a factor for enrichment on every efi system I’ve worked on.

Yeah, they try to oversimplify the process. Ultimately it doesn’t matter if the cam is 180* off from where it was originally compared to the crank (assuming there are two holes on the sprocket 180 out). The only thing your have to readjust is the dizzy to get it on the comp stroke

Many of us have done an ax15 swap. Perhaps post up a new thread to get more views and relevant help to the new issue. I’m sure many will chime in.