JimB

Bought it for my 13-year-old niece. Waiting for her review.

Well I broke it. Applying steady pressure pulling on needle the metal pin connecting needle to gauge broke. Not going to give up on it. Going to find a new gauge and try again then swap face plate. Anyone have any old fuel gauges laying around they want to sell? Also, any ideas why my 23-gallon tank only holds 16 gallons? A little history, the year was 1999 = I had a 1986 longed 4cylinder, 4 speed, 2wd, base model Comanche. Wanted to buy a Grand Cherokee. Went to trade in my 1987 Cherokee Laredo Mint perfect. Dealer offered $1000 I laughed and started walking out. I kept the Cherokee, and he knocked $500 off the GC. So, I took everything off of the Cherokee and moved over to the Comanche. This was before I was a member here. So, everything was Trial and error. Modified firewall, radiator support, AC system, Dash, Power windows, locks, Mirrors. (Remember 86 did not come with 4.0) So I retired last year, brought the Comanche into garage and stripped the wiring (removed all duct tape and crimps resoldered and heat shrunk, removed all pins from connectors cleaned, Ox-Garded, Deleted C101 connector completely. Did all Cruisers tips. Put everything back together drove to gas station filled tank, registered full (F). Drove around low fuel light came on. Gauge read between 1/4 and 1/2. Ran out of gas. Believe it or not first time in my life. Limped home. Fuel pressure gauge was all over the place. Replaced fuel pump. Before I put everything back in tank, I tested gauge. Empty was between 1/4 and 1/2, full was needle pointing straight to the right. Way over full. Removed cluster. Removed screws holding gauge. Cleaned copper added Ox-Gard reinstalled screws. Top screw kept going round and round and would not tighten. Well, it obviously tore the hair thin wire loose and caused gauge issue. This explains why last fill showed full and not over full. And why I ran out of gas at 1/4-1/2 mark. So went to gas station, filled 5 gallon can, poured into truck. Drove to gas station. Would only take 11 gallons. Gauge reads a little over half tank. I tested float before putting back in tank. So, vent tube in tank is too low shutting off pump or I need to give up on Jeep and start writing novels.

If I could get the needle off without damaging the gauge. I could swap with the one I have. Not sure if I should try or not.

I have a qauge in there now but it has the red. So I put a Azzy's cover it. Just me being anal.

The cluster is early 87. Prior to having the ballast resistor for the fuel pump. Also the relays are in a different order. Wonder if a 86 would work.

Would anyone happen to have a blue face fuel gauge for sale? Small lower left.

Hey all. I am having fuel pressure issues. Early 87 4.0 (no resister) I was able to limp home yesterday barely made it. Put pressure gauge on. Turned key on 20PSI. Started engine slowly crept up to 31 psi. Held pressure. Shut engine off. Waited a little while, pressure slowly went down. Turned key back on, heard pump come on but no pressure increase. Started engine pressure slowly returned to 31. I do not remember what brand or when I last replaced pump. I am sure it has been at least five years. The filter, regulator and lines were replaced recently. (Less than one year). Also noticed the low fuel light came on just under half tank. Gauge was reading between 1/4 and 1/2. Yesterday the gauge moved up to 1/2 tank. I have added a ground wire for the sending unit and pump years ago. Before I pull the pump, I want to get a new one. Having problems finding a Bosch. All local stores carry precision, Delphi. Really do not want to wait a week for a Bosch. Here are my questions. 1) Are Precision, Delphi any good? 2) Should I install a resistor? Sorry so long. After writing all this went out and pressure was still at 30. Started engine and watched pressure drop to 10 before engine died. 3)Any ideas?

Just throwing this in. My 87 Cherokee had a vibration between 50 and 55 mph. No problems below or above. Swapped the rims over to my 86 Comanche and the vibration followed. Found the right rear rim was slightly bent. Swapped out for the spares rim and problem solved.

Interested

I also replaced the NTK with a Bosch and the numbers cycle like they should (O2). Stays in closed loop now.

Sorry for the delay. Had to change tie rod ends. Was not sure if needed to be driven. STFT 60-80 up and down. LTFT 126 Jim

Fixed and confirmed all wiring. O2 sensor works according to the REM II. Cycles goes into closed loop. All seems good. Then I drive it awhile and the O2 signal freezes at around .33 goes into open loop. Let engine cool a bit and it starts working again. Drive it again engine heats up and back to open loop. Does this sound like a bad O2 sensor? Is there another sensor that can cause this? Going to swap in a Bosch I just bought and test. Any ideas???

Thanks a million. The 87 manual shows the O2 relay 4 wire. Just what I needed. Again thanks.

I have been chasing my tail for two days now. Come to find out there is a difference between 1987 early 4.0 and later 4.0 O2 relay location and wiring. Early O2 sensor relay is in the rear bank of relays. Not the front. It only has 4 wires instead of 5. REM II says no O2 heater voltage. Sensor does not cycle like it should. Installed new NTK yesterday. Same problem. Trying to find wiring diagram for early 1987 O2 sensor. My relay is wired as such. 85/ORN, 86 BLK/YEL, 87A GRY, 87 ORN. Any help would be highly appreciated.

First guy called me back. $1000.00 installed. Said a windshield for a Comanche was hard to find. Said thankyou but no thank you. Went to the Safelight site. Typed in 1986 Comanche. Said I would need to talk to a technician. Kept hitting the back button and changed it to a 1996 Cherokee. They will be here Wednesday. $396.00