ghetdjc320

Agreed, it’s a good looking truck stance. You don’t want it to look like a dog squatting if you ever put anything in back.

Did you try Novak? Local parts store? Summit racing or Jegs?

If your at 125* when -20 it would seem like 80* would put you well over 200*.

Terminator x has been used to power the 4.0 using stock cam and crank triggers. It was a mess to setup but it has been done. The hyperspark is the way to go, only downside is you loose cam timing for for full sequential. Still an very nice setup though. The 4.0 will like a bit more timing at idle (around 12* makes them happy). Which injectors are you using?

They will turn. Just go back and forth gently and they will realign. Those tabs keep them indexed

That’s a problem right there. Check that water pump part number. Cap and bottle need to be solid also. You running a 195 tstat?

You can adjust them one at a time starting from the lowest numbers. They will adjust without removal. Just takes some fiddling with it.

I’d get your temp gauge working asap. Check the part number for the water pump and make sure it’s the right one. Make sure your belt routing is correct and spinning the water pump counter clockwise. Try running it at idle and watch your temps. Check and make sure your upper radiator hose gets pressure (thermostat opening). Check your oil level. And check all your hose clamps and hoses for any leaks. One small leak and it will overheat. Now there is also a possibility you have a head gasket/head problem. But don’t go down that road yet. Possibly grab another radiator if everything else above checks out.

Yeah there are 4tabs on that cylinder that index the numbers and prevent them from being turned until you pull the whole cylinder. If you carefully heat the ends that hold the stew rod it will come out smoothly. It’s just a bit tricky

I can confirm the 96 cluster works just fine in the 91. All 91-96 xj/mj clusters are interchangeable and there were no canbus (obd2) clusters until 97 in the XJ. You can modify the odometer if you are very gently at working with tiny plastic parts and work gears. You’ll need an exacto knife and some heat to remove the worm gear and then the odometer cylinder. You’ll have to move the mileage forward to get to where you need to go.

What radiator are you running? What water pump? Have the engine and radiator been flushed? Has the heater core been flushed? What fans are your using?

A stand alone tube and fin will overheat your tranny. You need some sort of active cooling that will work at lower speeds. The stock tranny cooler is located on the cool side of the radiator so the idea that it will see the same temps as the engine is incorrect. The radiator acts more as a thermal “regulator”. The external cooler is only needed when the tranny itself is under additional load and generating more heat than normal (towing, crawling etc). The external cooler will only help the radiator “regulator” which is a far more effective active cooling system. A stand alone tube and fin cooler will not sufficiently cool your tranny. Keep in mind that the tranny is still getting a lot of heat transferred directly from the engine since they are bolted together. Plus, being an auto tranny, generates a lot of heat on its own, heat that requires more active cooling than only using a tube and fin setup. Stable temps are the key here. And the factory knew what they are doing. Not that it can’t be upgraded, but ditching the radiator setup for only a tube and fin “cooler” is not an upgrade.

Run it like the factory did (first through the radiator and then through an external cooler) and it will work great. Monitor your trans fluid temps for a while to verify the cooler is working well. One must keep in mind that just because your temp gauge is showing 210 does not mean that your tranny fluid is also running 210. That would only be the case if your radiator was non functional. The tranny cooler is connected to the “cool” side of the radiator where coolant temps should be well below 210 before reentering the block. The external cooler is only meant to drop the temps an extra few degrees. This was a well thought out design from the factory. If your engine cooling systems is in good working order and you use a factory style or similar external tranny cooler, the system will be in optimal operating temp range in pretty much all conditions.

The trans “cooler” in the radiator helps warm up the tranny fluid on cold days. Since it never gets below 80 here I bypassed it and just ran a moroso stand alone tranny cooler. The tranny needs to really keep a nice steady temperature ideally in about the 160* range. The stock radiator keeps it a bit on the hot side. There are pros and cons to both and heat does kill the aw4. Keeping the radiator cooler plus an external cooler and a gauge that monitors the trans fluid temps would be great all around for most places that see all 4 seasons.

A warm engine typically has higher compression numbers due to the differences in the coefficient between the cylinder walls and the piston and rings material. With those plugs, I’d be looking more into a cylinder head issue though. Pull the head and see what it all looks like then go from there.

Yikes that plug looks terrible! What cylinder is that from? Do they all look that way?

Manifold can be found at any auto parts place or rock auto amongst others. Dorman 674-170 for the renix setup with the heating port and 674-196 for the HO model without the port Pilot bushing is the 5th one listed here for your application: https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/pilot-bushings/amc-ax15/

I don’t have a pic of it right offhand. Perhaps try searching for XJ manual window regulator and you should find some pics of the complete unit.

The 97 ax15 will fit but will need a pilot bearing for the renix flywheel. The exhaust manifold was redesigned the last few years of the 4.0 and a flex coupler was added which reduces the stress cracks that were very common. There is a doorman part number available for the manifold. Welding it won’t fix it for very long. And the cheap aftermarket headers tend to have the same problems with cracking. I’d go with the updated flex coupler design manifold unless you want to drop some coin on a good aftermarket header. Also, make sure all your exhaust hangers and mounting points are secure so it doesn’t add any undue stress on the manifold.

Placeholder for aftermarket engine control and tuning information.

@eaglescout526

I believe the synergy tie rod connects lower in the drag link and therefore needs the matching drag link. The bigger consideration here is tire size and intended use as has been mentioned.

What is it that is hitting your speaker? The glass or the coil cable? The coil cable should be in a sheath and clip that holds it along the bottom of the door with the end of it facing the back edge of the door.

HP axles are also a stronger design for front axles since they apply their power to the correct side of the ring gear teeth.

Guess it depends on your plans for it. If you plan on keeping it or selling it to a Jeeper than an HP 30 would be a better swap. If it’s to just sell to someone who wants a 4wd truck then yes, the lp will swap in just fine. Just my $.02