ghetdjc320

X2 I have this kit along with their track bar system with cross brace. Very high quality parts and it will eliminate any play.

Agreed, this should be a simple fix. Leave that prop valve alone and try tightening the fittings first. If that doesn’t work you may need to replace the fittings and re flare the line. You have the newer style copper nickel line which is fairly easy to flare properly. Once the leak is fixed you will likely have to bleed the whole system. just make sure the master cylinder never goes dry. If it does you will need to bleed the master first.

So the original MJ system didn’t have an actual prop valve up front. It had a distribution block full allowed full pressure to all lines. The rear line then went to the load sensing valve at the rear axle. This valve offers proportioning of brake pressure so the back doesn’t lock up before the front. It’s pretty common to delete the rear valve. If you have a TJ proportioning valve it should work fine. If it’s leaking, it may just need the line re-flared. The prop valve itself rarely fails. Keep in mind though that you never want to let the master cylinder run empty when you work on the brake lines or you’ll introduce air into the system.

Awesome! Thanks for the follow up. Very helpful for future troubleshooting

Disk front drum back? The stock MJ system has unconventional to say the least. So we need to know what you currently have in the truck. Especially the distribution block below the master cylinder. Can you take some pictures of your brake components? Master/booster, existing prop valve, existing distribution block, and rear axle line where the old load sensing valve use to be

I run the adjustable wilwood valve. Works great. Here is some general brake upgrade info:

Iirc I had 10x2.25 on my 88 YJ. All the non c-clip Dana 35’s have the same (edit: flange pattern) as the Dana 44. And all are 10” brakes until 90 when they made it a c clip axle.

Progress.

There are several body plugs that could serve as drain plugs but aren’t ideally located for drainage. Keep in mind that the MJ has additional floor bracing that is spot welded and has a good tendency to trap water. So although the floor can be drained try to never get it wet or you’ll be dealing with a lot of rust. These trucks just have a lot of seams that are spot welded and seam sealed. The lizard skin looks like a great product (I’ve been wanting to try some myself) but I’d still put down some POR15 or similar over the entire floor. Good idea to clean up and reseal some of those overlap joints also.

A TJ Brute is probably on the top of my list for Jeep’s. Even better with a 2.8 Cummins or similar

Treating and refinishing the frame now

Well I was just planning on fixing the rear window leak lol.

I’ve got 2 MJs now and after having lifted one SOA with 6” front coils and all the accompanying mods for a great smooth driver, I’m going to just get the other one to stock 4x4 ride height. If I was going 3.5” or more agin I’d go long arm front and rear.

Yes they will. The explorer has very small disk brakes and even 15” alloys fit fine.

The scrambler reminded me more of an eldorado or even a wagoneer with those long unbroken pieces of sheet metal. Not my favorite truck. This black jeep reminds me of a bobbed tail avalanche with that giant plastic piece behind the cab. To me, the brutes looked the best for a converted truck. VS If they did it right they should have had this:

What are you working on that needs a harness? Engine, body, tranny, what year and what engine.

There isn’t really a company selling a complete kit for MJ’s. For the front, pretty much anything that lifts an XJ will lift an MJ. For the rear your options are: add a leaf (1-1.5”), longer shackles (one inch longer lifts .5” and so forth), replacement leaf packs (2-4”), Spring over axle conversion (5-6”) or a 4 link style suspension which requires a fair bit of fabrication. You can have excellent road manners with a 5-6” lift on 33’s but it will cost more than most people normally anticipate to get it dialed in just right. As for particular brands, once you sort out the kind of lift you want for the front (leveling kit/puck, short arm, drop brackets, long arms etc) you can get very good direction from those with experience with what you are looking for. Same goes for the rear but there are far fewer options since the typical XJ lift will not fit the MJ rear. Here are my $.02: if you want to run 31’s do about a 2” lift and no more. Old man emu front springs/shocks and maybe a replacement rear 4 leaf pack from General Spring or maybe just a small shackle lift if you prefer a more “level” look. WJ front lower control arms (to prevent those 31” tires from running on the control arms while turning) and replace all the front end bushings with some quality rubber replacements. Replace the tie rod with one from a 1998 V8 Grand Cherokee (other ZJ bars are the same but the parts guys also ask for a specific year make model). And replace your ball joints with the Dana/Spicer kit and replace your tie rod ende with some quality pieces. If the rest of the rig is solid that will be a very nice overall performer. The next consideration is your axle gearing. For 31’s the lowest gears I’d go with are 3.55. Some have run 3.07 but it’s not a nice experience. 3.73-4.10’s are even better for 31’s Once you exceed 2” lift more mods are needed.

That’s often a point of confusion. I imagine some parts store “interchange” guides started this rumor. As Eagle said, all the 4.0’s use a “reverse” style pump which just means they turn the opposite direction of the crank since they run on the back or smooth side of a serpentine system. Any serpentine 4.0 will be a “reverse” style water pump setup be it a WJ, YJ, TJ, MJ, XJ, ZJ etc.

Looks like a gr8tops conversion. Not a fan when there is no break between the cab and bed. Reminds me of a Honda Ridgeline.

What RPM is it hitting when it ramps up when you start it cold?

For engine storage, use fluid film. It’s lanolin based and won’t break down rubber and plastic like most petroleum based products. It will definitely prevent rust. We even use it to fog engines internally here to protect from salt. Works very well.

Sweet, yeah it’s a very nice front sweat bar option for sure. I should have used the words NOS . That may have evoked a few drool emojis lol

I’ll repeat this because I think everyone missed it lol: https://teamcherokee.com/front-sway-bar-assembly-oem-jeep-cherokee-xj-1994-2001/

I used a piece of hvac insulation and kept trimming pieces until I got a nice fit. Works great that way.

Being an XJ axle you will have to re weld the leaf spring perches. If your comfortable doing that, checkout getting the 1998+ Isuzu rodeo or Honda passport rear axle. It’s a very strong Dana 44 with disk brakes and low gears from the factory. The only downside is that you would need either some different wheels or some adapters since the lug pattern is 6x5.5 just like that wagoneer axle. They are really great axles though and most places sell cheap since they don’t know they are desireable axles.