ghetdjc320

Don’t forget the tie rod ends also if the have any play.

Lol, very true. I worked on a cluster and set it to 900,000. That was a pain to fix

what gears are in it?

I'm regards to the fuel pump, get a Bosch replacement in-tank pump specific to your 88 MJ. There are no advantages to an upgraded fuel pump on a stock engine. As to every other upgrade out there, the sky is the limit. the members here have done almost every “upgrade” there is and can provide a lot of feedback once you have more specific ideas in mind for mods. The first thing likely anyone will recommend though is doing the mods found on the Cruiser54 website. These “mods” are updates to the aging electrical system that will improve drive ability and reliability. Once those items and your “death wobble” have been addressed and you have a great running and driving truck, that the best place to start modding. Also don’t forget to start a build thread here: https://comancheclub.com/forum/8-member-projects-your-comanches/ You can get a lot of build direction there. But for specific mod or repair questions post them in this area for the most replies.

Agreed. Probably the large vent door near the passenger kick panel area.

As @Andy in Pa and @schardein mentioned, definitely need a rebuild but take a close look at your gears first. And there was no metal shavings in the fluid or left in the housing? There should be zero side to side play in the carrier. It should actually be less than zero and actually have a few thousandths of preload on the bearings. The shim packs should be sandwiched under the bearings on the carrier. Make sure to mark and identify each side for reinstallation. Also mark the carrier bearing caps so everything goes back together the same way. I have a sneaking suspicion though that you have a shim or two missing/eaten/shredded and are going to have to set this up as a new gearset. Let’s just hope the gears themselves aren’t too worn. Unless you were driving a lot in 4wd though I bet they are still within tolerance. Especially since you didn’t loose any oil.

Does the AW4 have a speed sensor it uses internally for shift points? Have an aw4 in my 91 4x4. I know the vss is in the tcase but was wondering if tcu is reading another internal tranny speed sensor. My shift points are just not right.

Almost looks like you lost a thick shim. That’s a tremendous amount of play for a carrier.

Sounds good! And remember, the xj/mj/tj d44’s are some of the “weaker” D44 options. They are still great little axles but the tube diameter is smaller than most 44’s. The strongest rear 44’s are the 98+ rodeo/passport rears along with the JK Rubicon 44’s. These axles all came with upgraded axle bearings, good size disk brakes, an 8.9” ring gear and a Dana 60 pinion. The axle shafts on the rodeo/passport axle measured a whopping 1 5/8” before necking down at the splines. The downside is the lug pattern which is 6x5.5. Definitely worth keeping an eye out for the d44 though from an MJ/XJ. There are rumors of D44’s under export model YJ’s also. I haven’t seen one but still worth a look. The KJ liberty axles weren’t too bad either. Disk brakes and 29 spline axles with an 8.25 ring gear. You would need to cutoff the old brackets and weld on new ones but other than that it’s fairly bolt-in. Same wheel patter as the front D30 also. An option that was extremely popular about 10 years ago was the Ford 8.8 from an Explorer. In my opinion it is far overrated and many junk yards have raised the prices since they knew Jeepers were looking for them. Still, if you can get one for free/cheap it’s not a terrible axle. Yo y mi esposa vivíamos en el estado de Oaxaca. Ella es originalmente del DF. Tenemos bastantes familiares y amigos en México. Nos hace falta regresar un día de estos

Yeah Renix would basically guess the injection timing if it didn’t have a cam signal. Let us know how it goes and if you need any assistance.

Are you fitting a GM reluctor onto the flywheel or plan to do a crank damper reluctor? I’ve made a few stand alone 4.0 harnesses from the 91-95 harness also. It’s a simple option if you prefer to go that route. I’m no fan of the renix or obd1 systems either. Considering the fact that these engines will run on a carb and hei, a 4.3 ecu should have no trouble running it.

Can you upload a small clip or video of the play? Have you had the carrier out recently? There should be a set of shims on each side of the carrier just underneath the pressed on bearings. Make sure to keep the same shim packs on the same side and label everything for reference. Otherwise, if you plan to swap to a locker or setup new gears then you’ll have to setup new shim packs based on the new components. You can use a regular bearing puller to remove the old ones since they will be trashed anyways. Installing new ones requires either a press or a perfectly size pipe along with a 2.5-5lb hammer and a block of wood.

Sounds like carrier bearings. Due for an overhaul

Agreed. The terms “vintage”, “cool”, “classic” and maybe even “iconic” all come to mind but definitely not “better” lol

This sounds like the perfect question for @Minuit

Depends, is the whole carrier moving or just the ring gear? Are the caps on the carrier?

The ecu itself I have no doubt could run the engine but it’s comparability with the HO crank reluctor pattern I find dubious. That crank pattern is is only somewhat close to a Subaru reluctor. Unless we’re talking a Renix reluctor?? There are many stand alone ecu’s that will run the 4.0 (especially in batched mode) but most are not able to integrate with the stock HO cam and crank triggers. Aside from that, I don’t see what would be gained by using a GM ecu. Even the old SBEC ecu’s can be socketed and tuned. Renix is the only system that would need a piggyback to tune.

If you ever figure out how to do that then please let us all know

The HP Dana 30 does not use c clips. Front axles do not use C clips in general. The Dana 35 rear axles use C clips starting in 1990 and later. Actually, many rear axles use C Clips and the clip Itself is not generally a point of failure. There are a few disadvantages to c clip axles but I’ll save that for another thread. “Rip” would be a ripoff in my opinion. Wagoneer axles are decent if you can get them cheap. They make more sense in a YJ swap since they don’t need the brackets that are required for XJ/MJ/TJ’s etc. Most factory rear axles will be low pinion. There is a lot of confusion surrounding the HP vs LP (high pinion vs low pinion) and what the advantages are. The two main reasons one would choose high or low pinion would be better driveshaft clearance and better ring gear engagement/strength. The strongest practical design would be low pinion in the rear and high pinion in the front. The reason for this is that the ring gear has a sloped side and a “straight” side. The low pinion on the front basically pulls the ring gear on the slopes side which puts a lot of lid on the gears. HP pushes the ring gear from the top and on the flatter “face” of the gear. An HP front axle is an inherently superior design. Now there are some high pinion rear axle (like the Ford High 9) but are primarily used on competition off-road rigs. The goal with these axles is to provide the highest clearance possible.

Welcome onboard! There is one company making “reproduction” leaf springs for our trucks and the 4leaf spring pack they make actually lift the truck about 1.5”. The springs are good quality, and are listed as factory replacements but they definitely provide lift over stock. These are the only new spring packs that provide slight lift: https://www.generalspringkc.com/1986-1992-jeep-comanche-rear-leaf-spring-4-3-1-leaf-1280-lbs-capacity/ They also make a 5 leaf pack which will probably net you another .75-1” putting you at around 2.5” of lift on a stock rig. A 1.5” lift provides a very nice clean stance.

Those are Wagoneer axles. Good year for them also likely late 80’s. Probably have some pretty low gearing (2.72 3.07 was common. The axles are adaptable to an mj/xj using the TnT truss or you could sort out all your own brackets and geometry. I lived in Mexico for years and $600 is a rip for these axles though. I wheeled those axles all over the place on 35’s. The front is a low pinion axle which is a down side but the ability to put on some locking hubs is nice. From the factory they come with a slug that locks the axles all the time. A simple Warn kit fixes that. The brakes are a nice 12” rotor and they use the D52 style caliper which is readily available and offers decent braking. The axles themselves are quite heavy and will add a lot of unsprung weight. As for strength, the R&P on the front 44 are larger than the D30 for sure but the high pinion design of the MJ/XJ/YJ D30 is superior to the low pinion setup of the waggy axle. The high pinion D44 found in some Ford trucks is the cats meow for a 44. Just listing some pros and cons. For the right price I’d buy a set. Or better yet, grab the front only (for less than $300) and find a 98+ rodeo/passport rear. 8.9” ring gear, D60 pinion and disk brakes. Plus they are easy to find in 4.10-4.88 gearing. Now those are some very good 44 rears. Plus they have the same 6 on 5.5 pattern as the waggy front. This has been discussed in depth though, the low pinion 44 R&P is only marginally if any stronger than R&P on an HP30. The rest of the axle is another story.

I can comment that the 3.5 Metal Cloak tj springs also lift the xj 3.5” approx (depends on weight). I have a set of the 6” metal cloak springs now.

It’s a slippery slope. Try to pinpoint the issue before firing the parts cannon. I’d run a can of flush through the whole system again. As has been said before, these things are very easy to overheat if everything is not 100%. Before going the head gasket route, test your compression in each cylinder with all plugs removed and a full battery. If you need a radiator, just stay away from the cheap 2-3 core aluminum eBay/amazon ones. The regular parts store replacements have been decent (spectra premium, Murray etc). Otherwise it’s a big jump up in price to the next good radiator (novak, mishimoto etc). Most prefer a Stat or Mopar tstat. The open system is the newer style. Still a bit of a process to get it bled though.

Holly long posts Batman! I used that evap core (plate and fin style) and it took plenty of mods but works well. You’ll need to get the evap core probe worked out also for the ac select to work. I’d also recommend keeping the killmat off of the floor. There are so many leak spots in these trucks. Every single body seam is another possible leak point. I had redone my floors and applied dynamite over it all. 3-4 years of pinhole leaks and the floors had to be redone. Removing that stuff was brutal

I’ve bought lots of parts from headlight revolution. They are a good supplier as is “the retrofit source”. The problem with HR is that the good quality projector setups from both Starr and GTR don’t exist anymore. There are also very few 5x7/7x6 led options that stick around more than a couple of years. Another challenge is the depth that is available in a typical 5x7 headlight bucket. They don’t allow for many projector housing options so we’re left with short sealed style lights which simply have a very difficult time getting a good light pattern. Edit: took another shot of my light patter against the side of a hill by the house. The truck was sitting up at a bit of an angle. The cutoff is just below drivers eyes on most cars when they are approaching in oncoming traffic.