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Ok good to know. I’m seeing if @krustyballer16’s would fit the bill first since he’s a bit closer. I’ll update the post though either way. Thank you all for the assistance in locating one!

Not a bad set for the price but, 5.29 gears??? Makes we wonder what kind of tires were on it. I’m really just looking for a buildable housing.

That would work. Really just need a good housing as I’ll build it up anyways. Let me know what you’d like for it and we can work out shipping

Keeping an eye out for a rear Dana 44. Will be headed back stateside end of January so let me know what you have.

Throw some ceramic coating on those asap! Works great, mine still look like new

Mixed feelings. It’s good they made these but they only made half a product. It’s hard to find good quality housings. Are they expecting the 3d printing community to make the housings? Only other thing is the actual color seems off on the lenses. Maybe it’s just the pictures but they look a bit cartoonish to me. Just comparing to NOS lights but they don’t seem to be made of the same plastic or have the same transparency of the originals.

Typically, yes

. Poor fit and installation of an aftermarket window. The rubber trim piece should not act as a seal, though when it was originally installed at the factory it should have helped divert water somewhat. The window frame itself should be urethaned into place. I swapped an original but broken 3 piece slider with the CR Laurence 4 piece and it has a very good fit after some fine tuning. But the original rubber trim was not re-used.

Rock auto or your local parts store have plenty of kits in stock. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1988,grand+wagoneer,5.9l+360cid+v8,1182361,drivetrain,differential+rebuild+kit,2224 Not sure why BJs never shipped to you but I haven’t come across any shortage for parts like these. I normally get all of my stuff from Revolution though. A master rebuild kit typically has even more parts than an install kit. You need the 4 bearings, shims, marking compound, ring bolts etc.

I don’t see why not. The additional reinforcement was added to stabilize the unibody area to accommodate the bed frame. I have deleted a portion of mine as many others have but I have yet to come across one structural part of an MJ I would say can be deleted because it was “over built” lol.

The glue for the lenses tends to get very brittle. Plus the majority of the lights that need new lenses also need new mounting tabs. Not sure what key parts was thinking here but they came out with only half a product. Should be good for those who jump in to reproducing the rest of the housing so we can have a complete drop in tail.

Only real advantage to running the engine on a stand is if you are planning to dyno tune it and swap/mod internals before installing. I suppose if you were doing some experimental engine work it also makes sense to run it on a stand. As was mentioned though, you would need harness, ecu, fuel, radiator etc.

We need some new tail light housings now. Preferably in ABS or some sort of similar, tough housing. @Dzimm

Personally I’ve shot both many times. I would recommend single stage if it’s a trail vehicle as you won’t be scratching through the clear coat. Otherwise, base clear is what I’d use in a street rig. On a show rig I’d use a tricoat.

X3 on the Key Parts. Spot weld cutter bits were also very handy

I’ve been running stainless steel spun cats for a few years now. Under $100 all day long. I assume they aren’t carb compliant but I wonder what the actual efficiency difference is. Personally, I appreciate less fumes especially when I’m wheeling.

Very cool part. Gives me some ideas lol

Sounds like a possible coil issue or cam sensor but id have a few more questions. Have you replaced the distributor at all recently? A failing cam sensor also causes very similar issues as it triggers and times your fueling sequence. As for the FP, it’s 39psi without vacuum attached. Check the pressure without vacuum attached and see what you have. Have you checked engine vacuum as well? There are several more possibilities of issues here but let’s narrow some things down a bit and see what’s left

That damage actually doesn’t look too bad to me since it’s on the “back” side of the ring gear and not really even in the contact area. I might just lightly file off anything that ay come loose, clean it up and run it. 4.56 and 33’s in a Dana 35 will almost require some chrome shafts. Fortunately, you have a non c-clip version so you can go with full 4140 chromo shafts vs the 1541 we have to use on the 90 and later 35’s

I knew all the people from my old oreillys and they were willing to go the extra mile to find parts. here we have Napa on island and it’s brutal. Even walking in with a part number they still want the make and model. Sometimes I have no idea what make and mode the part number I need comes from. An 88 chief, that has been my unicorn truck for a while now. All black interior with power everything

I think @acfortier picked that up

DA sanders are great for general cleanup, rust removal, and polishing but as was mentioned, you’ll need to block sand to get things flat. You could also use a good pneumatic straight line sander. Ive also used epoxy primer as a sealer by just diluting it with reducer about 25%. Just make sure to use the appropriate sized tip (1.4 for me). Works surprisingly well as a sealer in a pinch.

You mentioned your working on a 90 but the bulkhead connector diagram you posted is for the HO style 91+. Are you running HO wiring?