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And here are some pics of the truck for kicks. You’ll notice there is no more body seam between the cab corners and cab back.

here are some of those pics:

I know some have successfully installed new seatbelts from both eBay and other online suppliers. I believe they were listed as fitting a 4dr XJ but are not oem. They look quite nice though

It would be nice if there were an insert for the cup side of the hinge to take out the side to side slack. I know the tailgate strap bumpers hep align that but it’s not quite enough to eliminate the slack.

@Pete M any chance we could get some more eyes on this post? Good info!

Yeah the step downs are only a few bucks on Amazon for a fully potted waterproof version. Actually just ordered a couple more for my stand alone project

Maybe stronger R&P than an original MJ 44 but not an HD 44 by any means. I suppose if you have an 86 mj and you want an oem upgrade. But if it’s just a strength perspective, I wouldn’t spend time hunting down an axle that only comes on one production year and will be hard to find and/or expensive. And if your going FSJ amc20 route than grab an Isuzu or passport D44 rear from a 98+ Which is a much stronger option not to mention easier to find and typically cheaper.

The bolt pattern is the same as that 95/96 booster. They were the same bolt pattern on XJ’s from 91-01. All 91+ boosters will require some slight mods to the brake pedal connection so your pre 91 brake light switch will work properly. Make sure to hold onto the little aluminum 1/4” spacer that’s behind your booster if you still have it. It will provide the spacing needed for the 97+ booster to clear the pinch seam on the firewall. I run an 01 booster and MC on my 91 MJ. Was a bolt on for me since i have the newer style brake light switch. However, before you go that route, could it be that you just need to replace the check valve in your existing booster?

Don’t think Tim is going to reply. Looks like he hasn’t been on the site in over 12 years. I’ve come across many amc 20’s in full size Jeeps. Decent axle but I wouldn’t spend much effort hunting one down.

Make sure to grab the shims also if you don’t have adjustable control arms.

The tps voltage input is 5v. You can get a nice little 12v to 5v step down transformer online. You should be able to nix the renix ecu and just use the tcu stand alone. A super nice albeit expensive option is a compushift tcu. Gives you full control over all shift points which may be very helpful in adjusting those shift points for a Diesel engine

Ill take some pictures of that setup from different angles for you.

Wondering if @Minuit has any insights on this circuit. Just getting the inputs and outputs mapped and setup in the software

Potting fully cured. Ecu on the way. I’ll be using some unused cavities on the 60 pin connector and adding the ignition outputs to the harness for the extra 2 coils (3 total coils driving 2 cyl each). If anyone has a simplified description about what the heck the difference is between the “ac request” and “ac select” inputs on the stock ecu are that would be perfect. I’ve studied the wiring harness diagrams and I don’t see what the difference is between the two. For now, I’m just going to setup the “ac request” input and wire in the “ac clutch activation” output. This ecu also has full alternator control which is a plus. Only thing I need to add now is a coil igniter/amplifier.

Potting curing

Just google “euramtec Comanche” and look for posts from this site. I’d do it myself if i had the time. Can’t remember what the euramtec part number is but it will pop up in one of those threads.

Here are some pics… Working on the stand alone ecu. Settled on MaxxECU Sport. I desoldered a harness connector from and old ecu I had laying around. I’m now adding pigtails to each terminal. The idea is to have my MaxxECU plug into the stock harness. I recently replaced my 60 pin harness connector as well with a new one from Mopar. At the moment I plan on just getting a plug and play setup working. I will eventually switch to a wasted spark system and delete the existing coil and distributor. The ecu is compatible with all stock cam and crank triggers and will even control the alternator field requires on obd1 setups. More info coming in the next few weeks.

Sounds good, please do.

Yeah, the module used to work as a delay. It just slowly got worse over time

Basically you will get 100% pressure to all 4 brakes. Stock rear drums already lock up sooner than stock front disks if given the same input pressure. An empty bed makes this situation even worse as eagle points out. Here is some general info that may be helpful:

Looking for a good working wiper sway module for my 91. I got a junkyard one on eBay and it was worse than the original. I basically only have slow and fast wipers but no intermittent. Let me know what you have. thanks

What did it go for?

You need a canbus interface correct? I didn’t think Speeduino had and canbus output. I know many MS models do though. There are several canbus emulators out there though that could probably work. You could also just swap out the gauges for some aftermarket ones.

I’ve been running optima batteries for 11 years and have only had problems with the yellow tops. I have one now that has been great but is a warranty replacement. Sounds like you may have other electrical gremlins to sort out.