ghetdjc320

That’s a great deal on a parts truck. Some very good body parts on that rig. @Pete M

All these Dana 44’s had to pop up when I’m overseas! I’m sure when I start looking for one again I won’t find a single one…

Inside of hood curing

Some other thoughts come to mind first. You mentioned an unstable feeling when you hit a bump, what kind of steering and track bar setup are you running? My current setup that is also about a 5.5-6” lift is the following: Iron Man 4x4 steering brace system, track bar system with 1” drop and 1” dropped pitman arm. ZJ steering linkage (planning to upgrade to Currie CE-9701 for improved articulation range), rock road control arm drop brackets, metal cloak control arms and dual rate coils, bilstein 5150 series with 255/70 valving, later model XJ 28mm front track bar with iron man 4x4 relocation brackets, rubicon express seat bar disconnects. In the rear I have: 4 leaf 4wd leaf springs mounted spring over axle, addco rear sway bar (part 468), new bushings, bilstein 5150 series with lighter valving, ruff stuff off-road shock and leaf spring mounting parts. The ride is superb, no bump steer, great control, very stable in the turns at speed and plenty of flex off-road once the sway bar is disconnected. I’ve never ridden in a lifted rig that performed any better. If I were to do it all over, I would have to go with iron man 4x4 long arm kit also. For shocks, the bilsteins have been nice but I would recommend you get your shocks from accutune off-road. They custom tune them to your ride and don’t cost much more than the off the shelf options. They tune bilsteins, king and fox.

An interesting update to my stand alone efi project: I’ve found that many aftermarket ecu’s don’t want to control the 4 wire iac valve on the throttle body. It’s a stepper motor design and at the very least, uses a lot of extra outputs from your new ecu. My ecu is made to control a pwm idle valve. Basically the idle valve gets constant 12v on one pin then a pulsing ground on the other pin which moves the plunger to control the air bypass. There is no valve I’ve seen that bolts into the stock throttle body. The solution? A 2005-2006 TJ 4.0 throttle body. Not sure why but they switched to a pwm idle valve which works great with the aftermarket ecu.

Took a bit of a detour and worked on the hood. The body shop that did the original body work did a terrible job so I’m redoing it all. I wanted the hood scoop to be better profiled into the hood. Also wanted to eliminate the small area behind the scoop on the hood where factory bead rolled design was. Here are some pics. Look closely and you’ll see the differences. Also had rust to eliminate as wel as filling some old bolt holes. I used a resin based filler to adhere the scoop this time and had much better results. Have just a few more spots to touch up before a final 400 grit sanding and base coat. Will also finally be installing the hood light thanks to @eaglescout526 along with restregón the latches and replacing the pushrod guides.

Chrysler SCI port. As mentioned above, it’s a diagnostic port. There are a few scanners that can read it in addition to the DRB tool from Chrysler.

It will be really close to 3” lift. I ran the GS springs also and they are a good product. The 4 leaf pack lifts 2” over a stock 4 leaf so I would assume the 5 leaf pack will be about 2.5-3” settled.

Interesting project. Just so I can understand correctly, the Jeep has been sitting for 23 years for what was supposed to be a clutch job right? Any pictures you can take of that work area or parts may also be very helpful.

There are plenty of battery powered options. It would be easy to hardwire a line in though just under the bed rail. just drill a small hole through the inner bed and drop a small string or wire through to use as a pull string.

I’ve had 2 foresters and a wrx. Had a 2002 JDM forester with the 2.0 and 5 speed. Hands down my favorite. 09 forester was soft and cushy and had the coldest AC of any vehicle I’ve driven lol. Comfortable driver overall with decent mileage. 2017 wrx. This thing was lots of fun but probably not what your looking for. That 2.0 Subaru engine was very nice though on both the NA JDM forester and the boosted wrx version. Great mileage and trouble free. I’ve never tried the Subaru V6 though.

That would be the perfect cluster for a nice Cummins 2.8 swap! Hmmm… adding that to the list

Here you go (edit: not for sale )

Sounds good. What year is it from?

I have the cluster just looking for the ecu. How much?

Looking for an ecu from a police package XJ. It should be 4.0 with auto tranny and from somewhere between a 92-95. Thanks

This is really more of just a clarification as to posting a part-out in the classifieds. It seems there is some confusion which has dissuaded some from even posting a part-out in the classifieds. For a vehicle part-out, can’t we just list all the major parts for sale in a single thread? It seems recently that some are under the impression that they need to post every part separately along with price and location. That’s tedious. Since a part out can have so many different parts on one vehicle, could we clarify the guidelines so a part out posting is just a single post with multiple items? Hopefully this would make the whole process much cleaner for those parting out and easier to navigate when we are looking for parts.

OTC is the best ball joints kit I’ve ever used. The kit was pricey but well worth it. The adapters are part number 7894 https://www.otctools.com/products/jeepdodge-ball-joint-service-adapter

Yes that’s true. But I believe the cam is only syncing cylinder 1 to start the sequential injection sequence. What I’m not sure about yet (will have to pull the cap to know for sure) is whether the falling or rising signal is the compression stroke. But that makes sense if each set of triggers represents one cylinder. The computer could never know which cylinder it’s on without the cam sensor but the order of the plug wires makes the firing order sequential. Thus one could control timing off of just a crank sensor. I’m curious as to why there need to be 4 marks per cylinder though. All well, I’m just glad the trigger pattern is supported in the ecu.

Half a cam is 6 cyl at TDC just either on the exhaust or comp stroke.

Since the crank is spinning twice as fast as the cam and the cam sensor is “open” half the time and “closed” the other half of a single revolution, then crank 2 triggers would equal one cylinder. Since cylinders 1 and 5 go off in close sequence, it would seem like the oscilloscope is registering each 2 triggers as a cylinder. The 3 groups of 4 triggers would represent the sequential pairing of cylinders 1-5, 3-6, and 2-4. At least, that’s what I’m basing my trigger info on lol. Ultimately the crank pattern for the 4.0 HO is 18-2-2-2

One caveat I had not anticipated was that this particular ecu mode cannot natively control the GM style IAC valve in the throttle body. Even the stock ecu never did a great job of that. So I removed the throttle body set screw and flipped it over for easy access from above. Set my idle to a nice 850-900 without load. Since our temps are always the same I don’t need any extra idle anyways. Actually works remarkably well even on the stock injection! So if you iac is acting up try this. I’ve done this with motor sports vehicle before as well with great results.

Well it’s time to just go for it and build the ecu harness. I tested the ecu today as I wanted to be sure it would recognize the stock 4.0 HO cam/crank triggers. How these triggers functioned was always a bit odd to me as I’m used to seeing a missing tooth flywheel that would always indicate #1 cylinder is at TDC. The cam sensor would then tell you if it was on the compression or exhaust stroke. The HO flywheel is nothing like that. It has 3 sets of 4 holes in Y pattern on the flywheel/flex plate. Here is what that looks like: The cam turns only 1 Revolution for every 2 revolutions (720*) of crankshaft rotation. Because of this, the cam sensor can help you determine when the engine is at TDC on the compression stroke. Here is what the HO cam sensor looks like on a 94-99 distributor: It’s worth noting that all the HO years ultimately give the same signal. Even the later model distributorless systems introduced in 99 had a cam sensor that fits in that same distributor hole to give the ecu TDC timing. This new ecu can handle sequential 6 cyl spark using either coil on plug or a wasted spark system using that later model sensor. You could just leave the old distributor in also but I like the cleaner look of the 99-03 cam sensors. 04-06 had a bit different looking and somewhat failure prone cam sensor/opda unit. So I wanted to make sure the ecu would read these stock sensors before I moved forward. It does! Here is the oscilloscope it was reading from the cam and crank triggers: the top readings in orange are the crank trigger and they correspond to the holes on the tone ring on the flywheel/flex plate. Every 2 “spikes” represent 1 cylinder. The lower blue line is the cam sensor. You’ll see that it goes low for 12 crank triggers and then goes high for 12 crank triggers. Every 2 crank triggers is a cylinder event. It’s pretty simple when you think about it. 1,5 3,6 2,4. The cam triggers high on compression stroke and triggers low on the exhaust stroke. Thus you can find TDC on either stroke at any given engine RPM. Note also that the original supply voltage for these sensors is 8v from the ecu bu I am supplying them with 5v from the new ecu and the readings are just fine.

Need the door lock cylinder clip/retainer for my 91. Somehow mine is gone and I can’t find it anywhere. Also need the coil electrical connector. It’s just the 2 wire connector that plugs into the coil. Should be the same for most all HO 4.0’s. The tab on mine broke off and it doesn’t hold on well anymore. Thanks!

On another note, the ecu and all wiring and adapters are in. Not sure exactly when I’m going to be installing it just yet but hopefully soon. Having a slight overfueling issue when trying to restart once the truck has been sitting a few minutes after driving. I suspect the fuel map for cts is off for the injectors I’m running. I have to start the truck and immediately open the throttle to clear out the fuel.