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Good to know. Hopefully we can get someone to repop the housing so we can have a complete light assembly. And if someone repos the housing, I wouldnt mind some different bulb sockets while they’re at it @Dzimm

Have you checked you heater switch and connector?

Id say that’s a safe assumption. $250-400 for scrap in Arkansas last I was there. That being said, I’m sure many can use different body panels if there are any decent ones left

Ahh that makes sense. Though it was going in an MJ. I would think it should be fine for a car though May have some quirks being used in the front axle.

If the Volvo unit is the Gov-Loc it uses clutches. In that sense it is similar to the original Auburn select-a-loc which used a cone shaped clutch disk setup to “lock”. The fact is that the G80 requires “slip” in order to function. The auburn can be engaged with a switch so no “slip” is required. In that sense the Auburn functions more like a locker (but as a limited slip when the electromagnet is not engaged). Ultimately it looks like both rely on clutch packs to maintain friction “lock” even though that friction is assisted by another device. I’d be curious to know how the Volvo unit works in real world Jeeping scenarios though. I’ve run truetrac’s, aussies and ARB’s and the ARB has been the best so far but comes with quite a price tag and a more complex install. The one drawback I see to the G80 is the way it engages. Seems like a recipe for disaster putting all that stress on those small parts. Maybe if a tire slips on some ice or wet leaves but I can’t image the violent engagement that thing would have if you’re out mudding at high rpm’s. Guess that’s why it won’t engage over 20mph wheel speed. It’s been a few years since I went mudding but I do seem to recall wheel speed was pretty high to keep from getting stuck. In those scenarios it may not even engage. Seems like a unit from a Volvo also wouldn’t be up to the amount of inertia it would be subjected to under a built Jeep out crawling

I installed some of their floor pans and they were some nice products. They’ve been stringing us along for a long time though on taillights. Hopefully these will actually make it to production.

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Haha, if that’s the case, the club deserves its own brewery . Happy to help

That’s a handbrake from a Cherokee. The Comanche should have had a foot brake. The handbrake is a common swap thoug. The only “custom” part of this setup will be from the brake handle to the “equalizer”. From that point you use just stock components

Agreed. I was watching the manufacturer videos on that locker and they look quite problematic. A simple Aussie locker would work well also

You could also use the same style crimp connector that’s on the cable side of that pic:

I believe it is. Made by Eaton probably to GM spec. It reminds me a bit of the Auburn lockers. Still uses clutch packs.

A D44 from an MJ if you can find one is an easy swap especially if you will use a spring under axle configuration since the spring perches will be in the correct position. It’s the right width and lug pattern out of the box and bolts right in. In stock form it’s considered generally good for up to 35” tires. The 97 and later 8.25 or the liberty 8.25 is also a nice axle. I personally would never run another ford 8.8 axle unless it was free. And I’ve built many of them in the past.

The easiest bolt on kit is actually a supercharger. There are some nice kits here: https://www.boostedtech.com/solution-category/jeep-wrangler/ Turbos are great also but require more fab work due to the plumbing work they require and are hard to find as a kit for 4.0’s

The 7th picture is a set of rca cables probably for an aftermarket sub or amplifier. I can confirm all the rest of the answers here are correct as well on the other wiring plugs.

The D30 carrier break is 3.73 and numerically higher. I’m 100% positive on that.

Looking good

i believe the comp springs have almost the same installed height but the spring itself is thicker so a narrower seat ID is required. The Mopar springs are drop in though. That comp cam hasn’t been released yet but should be soon. It’s not really the ideal low end cam your looking for though. @Eagle is right. You need more of an RV style cam

Here is that listing:

Much more likely the block. There are some pictures floating around in here if the block cut in half to show the passages and they are super small. They could easily get clogged.

There are a couple of MJ 44’s available in the classifieds section. One is in CA and is $500.

I’d agree with that also since your going to be welding in new purchases anyway. Just make sure to get the right size u bolts, plates and perches for your axle diameter.

That’s a good point. Are you running just the stock distribution block then? If so, you may have some blockage there as those passages get mighty small.

Sounds like maybe some debris in one of the prop valve passages. Was there any notable flow restriction once you bled out the front lines? Is the RF braking at all?

The camshaft should have nothing to do with modifying the seats. That’s just the valve springs that are used that may require a specific installed height or a narrower ID to accommodate for a thicker spring wire. There are several off the shelf options for aftermarket springs (see latest in-stock Mopar offerings at the bottom of this post). Good stock springs are good for about .44 lift on the cam with regular 1.6 rocker arms. I personally prefer the stock renix-95’ cam with some 1.7 roller rockers. The Mopar purple cams were nice too. Good vacuum and full width cam lobes instead of those little narrow ones found on most aftermarket cams. Comp just came out with some new 4.0 cams though also: https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-4x4-197-201-hydraulic-cam-for-jeep-40l-1964-98-cpg.html That cam is very similar to the original Mopar 229 cam. You could possibly get away with stock springs depending on the valve weight. If you do need valve spring for a higher lift and don’t want to machine the seats to use LS or comp springs than use these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-P5249464