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I’m pretty sure he will. He has a busy with a 92 here on island. It was originally sold here as well so I’d be very interested to see the vin registry on that one.

Well guys, that concludes this build. It was a great project that spanned 5 years and traveled the globe. My MJ sold today and will be remaining on Guam. The buyer is a diehard Jeep owner though and it will be greatly appreciated.

Looks like your trying to get a kit that represents what you have. I’d recommend you jump on rock auto and grab a master install kit for your MJ D30 front and D44 rear. Revolution axle and gear is my personal favorite. You won’t get the appropriate oil slinger with that TJ kit.

Going with a Boostwerks unit

Well, this build will be moving forward shortly! Decided to make this one a restoration piece with only a few modern improvements but keeping it all stock. My 91 will remain the mod machine. I’ve been collecting used and nos parts for this new machine. The list is getting good and should make for a nice restoration. I may build the “beach cruiser” from the MJ dealer brochure. Should be getting started in a few weeks. Hope to complete before the end of summer. Also will need to find a swb roll bar and the appropriate lights. The louvers would be nice too. I have a set of oem front fogs. Will do the hidden winch just like the picture and throw in an ARB compressor in to complete and on board air system like the package says

Great to hear! Hopefully that was the culprit but if not, the list gets smaller and smaller from there.

I’ve found 3 problem spots on the e brake assembly that causes them to pop loose. 1. The rivet near the latch mechanism keeps the teeth centered on the catch lever. Often times that rivet does not sandwich the the teeth and allows the catch lever to only contact one side of the teeth. 2. The teeth on the pedal assembly cam and the catch/release lever get rounded off due to poor engagement. 3. The spring tension is insufficient to hold the cam in place. The spring should be swapped with a stronger unit but only after you check the above. The main center rivet that holds the brake cam to the plate can loosen somewhat over time and allow for play from side to side but I haven’t seen that actually be the root cause of the popping loose.

Just a quick update: I’m moving back stateside end of this month so all orders will be on hold for a bit until I get setup there. Good news is shipping times will be quicker . If you have already sent me a pane please forward the tracking number immediately. If you haven’t sent it yet, please hold off for a bit or send to the new address which I can provide in a PM. thank you

That is super helpful, thanks! I’ll check into that option

Ok good to know. I’m seeing if @krustyballer16’s would fit the bill first since he’s a bit closer. I’ll update the post though either way. Thank you all for the assistance in locating one!

Not a bad set for the price but, 5.29 gears??? Makes we wonder what kind of tires were on it. I’m really just looking for a buildable housing.

That would work. Really just need a good housing as I’ll build it up anyways. Let me know what you’d like for it and we can work out shipping

Keeping an eye out for a rear Dana 44. Will be headed back stateside end of January so let me know what you have.

Throw some ceramic coating on those asap! Works great, mine still look like new

Mixed feelings. It’s good they made these but they only made half a product. It’s hard to find good quality housings. Are they expecting the 3d printing community to make the housings? Only other thing is the actual color seems off on the lenses. Maybe it’s just the pictures but they look a bit cartoonish to me. Just comparing to NOS lights but they don’t seem to be made of the same plastic or have the same transparency of the originals.

Typically, yes

. Poor fit and installation of an aftermarket window. The rubber trim piece should not act as a seal, though when it was originally installed at the factory it should have helped divert water somewhat. The window frame itself should be urethaned into place. I swapped an original but broken 3 piece slider with the CR Laurence 4 piece and it has a very good fit after some fine tuning. But the original rubber trim was not re-used.

Rock auto or your local parts store have plenty of kits in stock. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1988,grand+wagoneer,5.9l+360cid+v8,1182361,drivetrain,differential+rebuild+kit,2224 Not sure why BJs never shipped to you but I haven’t come across any shortage for parts like these. I normally get all of my stuff from Revolution though. A master rebuild kit typically has even more parts than an install kit. You need the 4 bearings, shims, marking compound, ring bolts etc.

I don’t see why not. The additional reinforcement was added to stabilize the unibody area to accommodate the bed frame. I have deleted a portion of mine as many others have but I have yet to come across one structural part of an MJ I would say can be deleted because it was “over built” lol.

The glue for the lenses tends to get very brittle. Plus the majority of the lights that need new lenses also need new mounting tabs. Not sure what key parts was thinking here but they came out with only half a product. Should be good for those who jump in to reproducing the rest of the housing so we can have a complete drop in tail.

Only real advantage to running the engine on a stand is if you are planning to dyno tune it and swap/mod internals before installing. I suppose if you were doing some experimental engine work it also makes sense to run it on a stand. As was mentioned though, you would need harness, ecu, fuel, radiator etc.

We need some new tail light housings now. Preferably in ABS or some sort of similar, tough housing. @Dzimm

Personally I’ve shot both many times. I would recommend single stage if it’s a trail vehicle as you won’t be scratching through the clear coat. Otherwise, base clear is what I’d use in a street rig. On a show rig I’d use a tricoat.