ghetdjc320

Tell me more! There’s going to be an MJ takeover?

I’m here too. Built several Holley efi systems and in the process of swapping in an LS6

What about placing a plastic or rubber washer under it?

Where are you placing the “cure” at? Can’t see the purpose on a Y link steering system. That was more for the YJ style system with the inverted T since the tie rod would roll when the drag link applied turning force to it.

Is the bearing retainer fully seated?

Eeks that’s close. I’d recommend that you add a couple of layer of heat shrink around the base of that terminal on the cable to prevent any possible arcing to the alternator body. Also, flip that cable connection so the wire itself is further from the alternator body. Could also use a piece of plastic and just drill a hole in it to use as a mock shroud

That was GMB high flow that was a two piece impeller design (at least my GMB high flow was like that). The flowkooler has been a billet spiral one piece impeller for a great many years. Whether or not Hesco originally designed the first billet impeller on a 4.0 water pump I don’t know but a very large number of hesco’s parts these days are rebranded markups.

I believe the Hesco and flowkooler are practically the same unit. The Hesco bored thermostat housing was also an issue contributing to overheating. The oem system can’t really be significantly improved upon without a significant capacity upgrade in the radiator. Novak or the old JeepSpeed Griffith come to mind. Otherwise, the oem components are the way to go imo. Best system I ran was ac delco gold water pump (or the oem Mopar), Mopar hoses (with the anti-collapse spring), Mopar 195 t stat with air bleed hole, oem 7 blade mech fan with oem shroud, later xj style 10 blade e fan and a Mishimoto radiator. AC full blast in the tropics going up long steep grades with zero issues. It’s just been my experience that most of these cooling system “upgrades” don’t work well as stand alone “upgrades”. Even on a stroker I’d go with a stock system (maybe mishimoto or cold case radiator)

I also ran the AC Delco Gold pump after pulling a flowkooler. The flowkooler requires significantly more fluid capacity ie much larger radiator.

IIRC NTK is Mopar OEM. Always had good success with NTK

You’ll have to remove the fender for access. It’s the only way to take them out straight. The bolts that are closest to the inside of the door can be removed from inside the jamb. The remaining 4 can be accessed using the holes in the hinge with the fender removed. Keep removing them in increments until they are all loose. If it’s stripped too badly to be removed correctly, you can drill them and use a screw extractor but you have to do that through from the fender side as well. Whatever bolt you use will need to be a button head so the door can shut all the way. You can use an Allen or hex head bolt but they are more likely to strip than a good torx head bolt. Team Cherokee has oem replacements or you can go aftermarket and use Fastenal or McMaster Carr. I’ve never had a problem with the oem bolts even on very rusty rigs as long as I remove them through the factory provisions and stay square on the bolt.

Your transfer case itslelf would swap over if you changed the input gear but it’s typically not worth the cost vs one that already has a 23 spline. You can also look on eBay for a complete swap from DeadJeep. Keep in mind that the xj/mj ax15 clocks the transfer case slightly lower on the drivers side for clearance.

There is a way to measure your exact ride height in the diy section as well. With that info you could order up a generic shock meant for 2” lift or you could always go with a custom length that isn’t application specific. If your open to spending the money on a set of good shocks, checkout Accutune off-road. They will valve and tune an “off the shelf” shock to your rig. They have the specs on Comanches as well.

Just to be clear, this is going to be for the turbine wheel covers. It’s a bit larger than the turbine version

Running a consistently low tank can shorten the life of your pump. Also allows more room for water vapor which is worse than ethanol imo.

Luk is my go to. Whatever clutch I get though, I’ll get a National, Timken or Koyo throw out bearing if the kit doesn’t come with one of those specifically.

More metal work

I installed a set on my last mj. The overall fit is good but the MJ doesn’t have the divots in the floor that are in the key parts pans. Just installed their rockers though and they were perfect.

If the truck already has a 3” lift and your looking for high end shocks, go with accutune off-road. They custom valve to the application and they have Comanches in their database. If you don’t have any lift installed yet, that’s another story

Good to know! It would be great to have an MJ specific floor pan also

Hadn’t seen the frame caps yet. Any chance you have a link?

Well I got mine pulled. All that survived were the drivers and passenger glass panes

Here is a nice resource to get some general info: https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html The Jeep Strokers forum is also very helpful. Most of us who have built 4.0 based strokers have nothing but great things to say about Russ Pottenger at Bishop Buehl Racing. Shoot him an email once you get an idea of the direction you want to go and he can get you a kit put together. He’s super helpful. I would suggest avoiding Hesco, Clifford or 505 Performance. NewComer Racing also has some great stuff but they are very pricey.

Beautiful truck! That should have been a production model

I have yet to be amazed by a 4.0 I’ve built many 4.0’s and 4.0 based strokers, you definitely don’t get much bang for buck with most “upgrades”