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Your transfer case itslelf would swap over if you changed the input gear but it’s typically not worth the cost vs one that already has a 23 spline. You can also look on eBay for a complete swap from DeadJeep. Keep in mind that the xj/mj ax15 clocks the transfer case slightly lower on the drivers side for clearance.

There is a way to measure your exact ride height in the diy section as well. With that info you could order up a generic shock meant for 2” lift or you could always go with a custom length that isn’t application specific. If your open to spending the money on a set of good shocks, checkout Accutune off-road. They will valve and tune an “off the shelf” shock to your rig. They have the specs on Comanches as well.

Just to be clear, this is going to be for the turbine wheel covers. It’s a bit larger than the turbine version

Running a consistently low tank can shorten the life of your pump. Also allows more room for water vapor which is worse than ethanol imo.

Luk is my go to. Whatever clutch I get though, I’ll get a National, Timken or Koyo throw out bearing if the kit doesn’t come with one of those specifically.

More metal work

I installed a set on my last mj. The overall fit is good but the MJ doesn’t have the divots in the floor that are in the key parts pans. Just installed their rockers though and they were perfect.

If the truck already has a 3” lift and your looking for high end shocks, go with accutune off-road. They custom valve to the application and they have Comanches in their database. If you don’t have any lift installed yet, that’s another story

Good to know! It would be great to have an MJ specific floor pan also

Hadn’t seen the frame caps yet. Any chance you have a link?

Well I got mine pulled. All that survived were the drivers and passenger glass panes

Here is a nice resource to get some general info: https://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html The Jeep Strokers forum is also very helpful. Most of us who have built 4.0 based strokers have nothing but great things to say about Russ Pottenger at Bishop Buehl Racing. Shoot him an email once you get an idea of the direction you want to go and he can get you a kit put together. He’s super helpful. I would suggest avoiding Hesco, Clifford or 505 Performance. NewComer Racing also has some great stuff but they are very pricey.

Beautiful truck! That should have been a production model

I have yet to be amazed by a 4.0 I’ve built many 4.0’s and 4.0 based strokers, you definitely don’t get much bang for buck with most “upgrades”

Passenger metal work is about finished. Ran out of shielding gas so I’m going to grab some Monday. Rocker panel, floor patching, bedside, hinge reinforcement and latch reinforcement all installed. Rear window also removed.

Very true. All I’m getting at is Chrysler did some nice improvements to the 4.0 over the years and some are worth pursuing depending on one’s end goals.

All versions of the 91+ heads flow better than the renix hands down. The 60mm TB Exhaust header 96 Block revisions for NVH and the addition of a crank girdle 96 belt tensioner design was a much better than the renix or early HO years 99+ equal length runner intake 99+ wasted spark system (this one had its issues but they were headed in the right direction). The 0331 head was a problem that was addressed with the “Tuppy”revision. As for the efi system, Chrysler had been running SBEC for some time at that point and given the amount of vehicles they already had running on it, it was only logical that they would keep using it on the 91-95 obd1 years. That’s not saying that Renix wasn’t a great system. It was well advanced for its time. But Renix is just an efi system. I’m referring to the engines mechanical systems. A well tuned modern efi would outperform a stock Renix, Sbec or Jtec system. Mechanically this engine was evolving from its early years as well it should. Who knows what amc would have done with the engine going forward but the fact that Chrysler gave them another 16 years life span is what has contributed tremendously with the current support we see for the 4.0.

Removed passenger door and will be doing passenger rocker and floor rust holes next.

It’s just one astounding layer after another lol.

Replacing metal on the bed’s inner fender. Lots of compound curves to shape. Picked up 3m panel bond and associated gun. Will be using panel bond along with pinch welding whenever practical as it will ensure I never get any moisture into that seam again. All the sheet metal is butt welded still but those overlaps will all be 3m panel bonded.

Looks like curtains from Whataburger. They should buy this as a promo truck

There are some complete swap kits also available I believe from DeadJeep. They include the mounts, transmission, bellhousing transfer case etc. Under 2k last I checked. Seen them in eBay several times as well. That being said, I also never had a problem the the ba10 in my YJ. Wheeled it quite a bit and even towed with no issues but who knows I’ve also had great success with Dana 35’s lol.