ghetdjc320

Didn’t take final pics of the floor repair but all metal work on the truck cab and frame is complete. Still have some bed work to do but that will be a bit later. Body work Is next. Plan on cleaning up the firewall as well. Will POR-15 the floor then seam seal everything followed by lizard skin. The underside is getting some selective Por-15 then epoxy primer over everything l followed by undercoating.

Back at it. More pics to come!

I’m in Arkansas. Also no inspection of any sort. I’d recommend just putting a stainless cat on. It’s cheap and its better than smelling un-burnt gas all day long. Something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-53035 That’s for 2.25 pipe. Here is a list of others: https://www.summitracing.com/search?GroupBy=SKU&N=filter-options%3Ain-stock%2Bpart-type%3Acatalytic-converters%2Bbrand%3Amagnaflow%2Boutlet-quantity%3A1&PageSize=25&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Ascending These are all stainless spun cats. There is no ceramic element inside. The stainless honeycomb inside is just a pass through element with no restriction. It just heats up with the exhaust and burns up un-burnt fuel left over from the combustion chamber. I’ve been down this road and ran many a vehicle with no cat. On an older vehicle all it did was smell like straight gas.

Hadn’t seen those before but they are the right shape. What are the dimensions? Are they easy to find?

Shift solenoids are a possibility. Torque converter, fluid levels and a bad connection somewhere in the transmission harness are also things I’d check

Welcome to the club! I’d recommend a regular spun stainless cat. There are many universal ones from Magnaflow etc. Summit sells them for under $100. Won’t compromise your exhaust flow and will keep your exhaust from reeking of gas.

Just got some info back from @natander2ksometime. The MJ takeover will be September 22nd-25th with trail rides and events over the extended weekend. I think I can make it by then. Apparently it’s on the “All things Jeep Comanche” group on FB which I don’t have.

I’d recommend you spend some time learning how to tune the sniper system. It’s very capable and user friendly for what it is. You can easily tune driveability issues with the assistance of various forums and manuals. Tuning the throttle plate opening vs iacv is crucial for idle. Use the monitor and see what’s happening to your engine when it dies at idle. Progressive linkage may also be necessary depending on which model sniper you run.

Another option: https://www.jegs.com/i/Crown+Automotive/077/55002229/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqPGUBhDwARIsANNwjV5DUETZqRoQvXqlnfgb7q_SIrLew_I2PogjQwUL4Eg2RlsNbe3-EmIaArlMEALw_wcB

Bumping this back up again. Any ideas about a Moab meet up?

If they let you order it, they ship direct from Crown. You can also copy the number and check with summit. They should give you an eta.

Thank you!

Crown makes new ones. I bought one through quadratec. Took a couple of week to ship

I agree. The full windows and older style mirrors look very clean. Those rounded mirrors were not my cup of tea

Wonder what they are out of??? The whole frame is aluminum and plastic. Are they making these in house?

I hadn’t seen a kit before either but came across one on eBay about 2 months ago and bought it. $38 total shipped. Bought it from “oldbarnclassicsllc” on eBay. The weatherstripping included was actually in great shape and the best part is that they were genuine oem parts.

Why not a junkyard short block and take it to the machine shop yourself?

From my observation of doin a fair bit of metal and body work on these trucks here are my areas of concern: most all panels are spot welded together. This creates seams that are not water tight and easily trap water. These seams are everywhere. The factory method to address this was to sloppily apply seam sealer to the inside cab seam around the floor and the floor1firewall transition inside the front wheel well. The seam sealer around the cowl under the fenders is very poor in every MJ/XJ I’ve seen. As it fails, it allows water to trickle into the cab and rot from the inside. It’s quite a crap design in terms of preventing rust. When replacing panels now that used to have a pinch weld seam, I’ve switched to using an automotive panel bonder. Works much better and prevents the issue. If your not doing any panel swaps, take time to go over all the joints with some fresh seam sealer. A 2 part sealer works best. An oscillating tool with an adhesive removal blade will make short work of removing any failed or poorly applied sealer. If you were going to use bedliner/lizard skin or similar, spray it inside the cab after sealing it thoroughly and addressing any rust. Unless you’re doing a rotisserie restoration and going over every seam under the truck, I wouldn’t recommend and type of membrane material (like bedliner or lizard skin) as it will trap moisture in the seams. Paint would be preferable but the downside is it’s chip resistance as the underside will get pelted with stones with normal use. A stone guard type paint would be good there. POR15 actually works very well in this regard but has trouble adhering to clean or painted metal and would require a fair bit of prep. And you must use a good respirator if spraying that stuff as it’s quite vile. The bottom of the bed is another story and it very well could be bedlined with proper prep. Once the finish is done, get a good inner frame sprayer and shoot cavity wax, bar and chain oil, diesel, or lanolin coating inside the frame rails and inside plug holes like the ones located over the rear wheels in the inner fender.

I have a pair of NOS 2dr window switches with bezels. PM if interested

What year is your D35?

Anyone?? Maybe this is in the wrong section??

It’s much easier to just remove the fender and use the impact with a torx bit. Doesn’t take very long at all to remove the fender. I’ve also used the 1/4” ratcheting socket slipped over a torx bit but it’s very hard to get enough pressure to keep from slipping the socket on the head.

Tagging @natander2ksometime on this. Saw in another post that there was some discussion about a possible MJ takeover in Moab in September. Anyone have any more info? I should be able to make it around then. If it’s going to happen, what are the dates? Who’s organizing? And what are the events? Be nice to do a few trail rides and maybe a meet and great show.

And… more metal work. I really like these inner frame plates!