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If you look carefully at the specs for the 2 available options, the 4 leaf actually seems to provide more lift than the 5. The spring rate on the 5 is quite high for an unloaded truck. Your riding on the 3 main leaves basically and the free arch of the 4 pack is 1” higher than the 5 leaf. It’s the 2 overload springs that are adding all the weight capacity.

Just to add to this, @Limeyjeeper you were finally able to use the stock sanded 508 in the stock corvette location down near the passenger side frame rail correct? I seem to recall you mentioning that the relocation bracket that had it up near the battery area interfered. It seems like the vette accessory drive is laid out for pretty much exactly what an MJ needs if I’m reading that correctly. Let us know. Thanks

From my research so far it seems that the late model Renix ecu should be able up to the task. The knock sensor is a nice bonus also. Fuel and timing trims are at least on par with the HO ecu. What Renix “performance” ecu are you referring to?

More black interior pieces arrived along with my nos front left and right fenders. Russ is putting together a stroker for this and we’re shooting for 325-350. I’ll see how wel this 90’ Renix control system will handle things. Skat crank forged racetec pistons, fully ported intake and head, roller rockers. I’m quite keen on keeping the D35/30 combo due to the weight reduction but may swap to an 8.25 rear if a 44 doesn’t come through. Truck cover USA custom made roll top (thanks @Limeyjeeper for providing the build info for them!) will be in Friday. I almost went the LS route but I want to see what a fully built 100% Jeep can do. Plan to run 4.10’s with probably arbs with 31” BFG AT KO2’s on Restored turbines. Full front grille, flares, bumper and all replayed parts and accessories on their way. Also got a new rocker panel for the passenger side along with the bedside patch panel for the wheel well area. Debating on seats now. Given the build time for most parts I’m having to plan out at least a couple months in advance. Next step is pull the engine, strip it and send off for machining.

There is almost zero rust on this rig. I am going to have some body panels to replace/straighten though. If anyone is interested, I will likely be parting out the original 90k mile Renix engine and all associated electronics. Will also be probably selling the door panels and seats which are all original eliminator parts. This thing is going to get a significant power upgrade. More details to come…

Got some black interior pieces starting with the dash. Was a little dirty but cleaned up beautifully. Thanks @Kkilmer87

I was thinking the same. That trim piece does not seal the glass into place. It does help reroute water away from the urethane seal underneath though. While you have the trim piece out though, it’s a good time to reseal the window. It’s also almost impossible to reinstall the trim with the glass in place. At least it was for me

New headliner and nos front fenders on the way. The grille and bezels will be chrome. Went with the 10 slot design as I feel it does match the turbines the best. Sorting out axles engine and seats along with wiring and electronics still. Being that this is an original 90k mile engine that runs perfectly, I’m not too inclined to make a stroker. I have considered helping it breathe better though which is the real choke point on these 4.0’s. A fully ported head from Russ along with a nice Mopar cam and ported intake along with a good header would probably add a good 50 or so reliable HP. Then again, a nice Eaton supercharger would add about 85-100 hp for about the same price. The mid 8’s compression ratio and stock cam seem to respond very well to pressure. Hmmm… not sure yet. I am also wanting to keep this rig a bit on the light side so adding heavy aftermarket bumpers and axles isn’t in the build plans. Again I’m thinking of staying with the D35. I’ve grown quite keen of those axles. A KJ 8.25 is still in the cards though. I’d grab an MJ d44 if I could just get it shipped.

Got a full set of factoy SWB skids on the way along with a full black interior. Also have the custom hard roll top bed cover on the way.

That’s right!

True, but each time it’s an “upgrade”

I hat buying things twice

Hylift Xtreme with the hylift mounts

Here is a laundry list of parts I need if anyone has any of the following: 1. good condition grey dash 2. steering column and wheel (also grey) 3. driver and passenger fenders 4. good condition tailgate (this one would need some major work to make it functional 5. front bumper 6. Front flares 7. Possibly a D44 rear I can get a lot of these parts (except dash and tailgate) aftermarket but would prefer to get good used ones. if anyone has a line on any of these parts please let me know. @89 MJ Yeah I believe I will stick with the period correct front and interior. I’ve sourced ZJ steering, upcountry front springs, WJ lower arms and all new bushings. Will also be installing one of my restored hvac panels and some new switch panels. The engine runs very well so I’ll just perform some needed maintenance first but eventually will be doing something with it. The PO installed a cable shifter for the 4wd which I’m going to delete. Had one in a YJ and never wanted one again. They also did a few wiring hacks and setup an aux fan on a switch and setup the fuel pump to run continually with the key on. I picked up all NOS Mopar 10 blade fan, shroud & 01 XJ e fan. Getting a nice parts collection lol.

I’m going to need a new dash at some point in time. But am considering a possible 97+ swap if o can find a good donor. The floors on this thing are in fantastic shape! Aside from the passenger side rocker it is almost rust free.

You’ll probably need to order another shim kit. Your shims should be going UNDER your carrier bearings. It’s so much easier to do this with “setup bearings”. You can also make your own setup bearing by lightly grinding the inside of a used set of bearing until they are able to slip on and off of the carrier. Set your backlash, pinion depth, then find the “zero” lash point of the carrier and add in however many thousandths of preload the specs call for. Add the equal amount of shims to each side then press on a new set of bearings. Be careful installing your seals and make sure to add some assembly lube to all of them.

I think he was joking

Seriously though, I can’t tell you how many times this gets ignored only to have cam/lifter failure in very short order out of the box. I have no idea what your mechanical skill level is so I have to start off with the basics. Meant no offense though .

Preload shims come in the master install kit. They should have more than enough shims. Remember, set your depth first. Here is a handy little diagram. Make sure that the oil slinger is under the pinion head before the first pressed on bearing. Here is a super handy and comprehensive step by step guide I’ve used in the past: http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Gear_Setup_Bible/index.html

Oil slinger typically goes just under pinion head and it (along with shims) set your pinion depth. Preload is handled with shims on the other side. Both adjustments are 100% critical.

Are you also running a doubler? There are a lot of different wrangler d shaft lengths

I’d guess between 4-5k. I’ve bought and sold recently. All depends on desirability. 6 cyl 4wd swb are fetching quite a bit more but as you said, it’s still an MJ

Did you break in the cam by running it about 2k rpm for 20 mins at startup?