ghetdjc320

Passenger metal work is about finished. Ran out of shielding gas so I’m going to grab some Monday. Rocker panel, floor patching, bedside, hinge reinforcement and latch reinforcement all installed. Rear window also removed.

Very true. All I’m getting at is Chrysler did some nice improvements to the 4.0 over the years and some are worth pursuing depending on one’s end goals.

All versions of the 91+ heads flow better than the renix hands down. The 60mm TB Exhaust header 96 Block revisions for NVH and the addition of a crank girdle 96 belt tensioner design was a much better than the renix or early HO years 99+ equal length runner intake 99+ wasted spark system (this one had its issues but they were headed in the right direction). The 0331 head was a problem that was addressed with the “Tuppy”revision. As for the efi system, Chrysler had been running SBEC for some time at that point and given the amount of vehicles they already had running on it, it was only logical that they would keep using it on the 91-95 obd1 years. That’s not saying that Renix wasn’t a great system. It was well advanced for its time. But Renix is just an efi system. I’m referring to the engines mechanical systems. A well tuned modern efi would outperform a stock Renix, Sbec or Jtec system. Mechanically this engine was evolving from its early years as well it should. Who knows what amc would have done with the engine going forward but the fact that Chrysler gave them another 16 years life span is what has contributed tremendously with the current support we see for the 4.0.

Removed passenger door and will be doing passenger rocker and floor rust holes next.

It’s just one astounding layer after another lol.

Replacing metal on the bed’s inner fender. Lots of compound curves to shape. Picked up 3m panel bond and associated gun. Will be using panel bond along with pinch welding whenever practical as it will ensure I never get any moisture into that seam again. All the sheet metal is butt welded still but those overlaps will all be 3m panel bonded.

Looks like curtains from Whataburger. They should buy this as a promo truck

There are some complete swap kits also available I believe from DeadJeep. They include the mounts, transmission, bellhousing transfer case etc. Under 2k last I checked. Seen them in eBay several times as well. That being said, I also never had a problem the the ba10 in my YJ. Wheeled it quite a bit and even towed with no issues but who knows I’ve also had great success with Dana 35’s lol.

I would speculate though that even more power can be made overall with a complete HO running on a Renix efi system with its active knock sensors. It would seem that the HO is mechanically superior as several of its parts were redesigned for better airflow (including the head) throughout the entire rpm range but the sbec2 ecu does seem like a downgrade or at least a very conservative tune. The base timing on the sbec is definitely not going to be a power adder. Just curious of the actual specs on running a rebuilt pure Renix vs running a rebuilt HO engine on late model Renix ecu. It seems through the years that there were many modifications to the 4.0 post amc that should have achieved higher power numbers but instead were detuned.

Sweetness!! Thank you sir

I’m in the process of removing it still but I should have it out in a few days. I don’t mind shipping it at all if you send a label. No need for anything extra, happy to help

Bad weather day but was able to make some progress. Spent hours with the hammer and dolly straightening out panels. I cutout the rotten parts of the inner fender as well and will trim out some new sheet metal to fit there. The new outer skin should be a nice butt weld finish. Will also por15 the inside of the inner fender. I have half a mind to use some 3m panel bonder for the pinch seam. There is just no other way I can think of that would keep that area from accumulating moisture and rusting out again. Ideally, I would seam seal the back side of the weld but there is obviously no access.

Located in northwest Arkansas. The CRL has an aluminum border build in that needs to be “massaged” for a perfect fit.

I have one with a missing center window you can have. As for the CR Laurence 4 pane, it takes time to get it installed right but the quality is excellent. Most glass shops won't take the time to really fit it properly by conforming the aluminum trim to the cab opening.

Looking for a nice full center console without damage. Either an XJ or MJ console works for me. Thanks

Beautiful build! Following along with this and Limey's build has given me quite a few ideas... Thanks for all the time you invested into updating us on the progress and posting pics

Looking great! Glad you were able to snag a set of pre 90 knuckles. I've got a big brake kit awaiting install as well once I get to that point. Have you had a chance to test out those Wilwoods yet? Also, what wheels are you running?

U ship is competitive for ltl freight (less than truck load). I’d also look at just sending it via ground FedEx or ups. It shouldn’t need a box. Just wrap and a label. Personally I’d cut it in half and reweld it.

Good to know. I have the key parts bedside and rocker going on now and they are an absolutely perfect fit.

Rear window is coming out next along with windshield. Picked up a straight line sander along with a few odds and ends for butt welding the panels together. Also picked up a few small sheets of 22awg for the floor pans, inner fenders on the bed and to close off some unused holes in the firewall. Also picked up a small 2’ piece of copper pipe I’m going to flatten with a hammer to make a flat copper “spoon” to use as a backer for the plug welds. Next step will be to remove the bad portion of the inner fender and work on the front inner and outer frame reinforcement pieces. Have some 3m weld through primer I’ll be using to coat the back sides of the welded metal panels that won’t be exposed later for the epoxy primer. Been departing about what to use in the cab for sound/heat. I will not use dynamat on the cab floor ever again (see my last build for more info lol). Going to remove as much of the seam sealer inside the cab to reapply some fresh 3m sealer first. Afterward I was planning on a coat of epoxy primer then perhaps some lizard skin followed by paint. In regards to painting, the plan is to do the jambs with the doors off the Jeep then re-install and align before shooting the whole truck. The bed will be a separate shoot. Plan to bedline with raptor inside the bed and possibly underneath or maybe use some lizard skin there also. The inside of the fenders, under the floors/tunnel, frame and axles will all get a coat of 2k chassis paint.

XJ pack works very well. Just grab some used stock XJ leaf springs and use the MJ main leaf. They are still going to be quite soft though if that matters

Major progress today. Interior is completely stripped and I’m working on a few rust spots. The floor pans are the best I’ve personally seen overall. Blasted off every last sq inch of undercoating. Next up is metal work. The Key Parts replacement rocker and bedside are absolutely a perfect fit. Highly recommended.