ghetdjc320

I have one with a missing center window you can have. As for the CR Laurence 4 pane, it takes time to get it installed right but the quality is excellent. Most glass shops won't take the time to really fit it properly by conforming the aluminum trim to the cab opening.

Looking for a nice full center console without damage. Either an XJ or MJ console works for me. Thanks

Beautiful build! Following along with this and Limey's build has given me quite a few ideas... Thanks for all the time you invested into updating us on the progress and posting pics

Looking great! Glad you were able to snag a set of pre 90 knuckles. I've got a big brake kit awaiting install as well once I get to that point. Have you had a chance to test out those Wilwoods yet? Also, what wheels are you running?

U ship is competitive for ltl freight (less than truck load). I’d also look at just sending it via ground FedEx or ups. It shouldn’t need a box. Just wrap and a label. Personally I’d cut it in half and reweld it.

Good to know. I have the key parts bedside and rocker going on now and they are an absolutely perfect fit.

Rear window is coming out next along with windshield. Picked up a straight line sander along with a few odds and ends for butt welding the panels together. Also picked up a few small sheets of 22awg for the floor pans, inner fenders on the bed and to close off some unused holes in the firewall. Also picked up a small 2’ piece of copper pipe I’m going to flatten with a hammer to make a flat copper “spoon” to use as a backer for the plug welds. Next step will be to remove the bad portion of the inner fender and work on the front inner and outer frame reinforcement pieces. Have some 3m weld through primer I’ll be using to coat the back sides of the welded metal panels that won’t be exposed later for the epoxy primer. Been departing about what to use in the cab for sound/heat. I will not use dynamat on the cab floor ever again (see my last build for more info lol). Going to remove as much of the seam sealer inside the cab to reapply some fresh 3m sealer first. Afterward I was planning on a coat of epoxy primer then perhaps some lizard skin followed by paint. In regards to painting, the plan is to do the jambs with the doors off the Jeep then re-install and align before shooting the whole truck. The bed will be a separate shoot. Plan to bedline with raptor inside the bed and possibly underneath or maybe use some lizard skin there also. The inside of the fenders, under the floors/tunnel, frame and axles will all get a coat of 2k chassis paint.

XJ pack works very well. Just grab some used stock XJ leaf springs and use the MJ main leaf. They are still going to be quite soft though if that matters

Major progress today. Interior is completely stripped and I’m working on a few rust spots. The floor pans are the best I’ve personally seen overall. Blasted off every last sq inch of undercoating. Next up is metal work. The Key Parts replacement rocker and bedside are absolutely a perfect fit. Highly recommended.

Finally nailed down the suspension and got it ordered. I was seriously considering the rustys 4.5 kit and swapping the front to a 4 link long arm. Since I would need to customize the kit somewhat I called… and called… and called. No answer no email replies, nothing. So I went with BDS. They were extremely helpful. Absolutely great service . 3” lift up front, rear add a leaf, adjustable track bar, upper and lower adjustable control arms with Johnny joints and full set of shocks with steering stabilizer. I was a bit hesitant about going with an AAL but the existing spring rate is just too soft for almost anything. The aal should help with axle wrap and light loads/towing.

True. There was so much dirt under there. Every time I used the impact to remove a bolt I got a face full of dirt. Going to be quite satisfying to throw the turbo nozzle on the pressure washer tomorrow and strip it clean.

Didn’t have much time today to make progress but I was able to remove the bed. Going to blast everything clean tomorrow. Loads of dirt and mud but zero rust.

Yep, it’s a brass insert that goes into the lower knuckle ball joint hole in the pre 90’ knuckles. Sets the proper preload on the ball joints. The replacement insert comes in the spicer ball joint kit. You need a spanner socket to remove the old one.

I thought they were a tapered thread but I may be wrong.

Drivetrain is out

Engine compartment getting stripped down

The “scooped xj” was my MJ. It’s the vanguard bumper from JCR. It’s one top notch product. Bit of a lead time but well worth the wait.

Here we go!

Have a nice complete 90k 4.0 in Arkansas lol. I wouldn’t mind shipping either but it may be more cost than it’s worth

Just finished building a shop here in Arkansas but hasn’t considered working on other peoples MJs. Are you looking for someone near the valley? I know of a couple of shops around Austin that are great but everyone that’s any good is swamped with work it seems

They can be swapped as long as you go with the caliper, pads and rotor for the same year as your knuckles.

That was a strong contender if it wasn’t for the winch mounted in front of the grill. Didn’t want to cut down what little radiator air flow I had further with a winch. That’s a good quality bumper though. Seen a couple in person and they are very nice.

Guess I’ll jump in: on my MJs/XJs I’ve run oem, JCR (vanguard) and now the warrior gen 1. They all have been different styles of builds which has played a huge factor. My current personal favorite is the warrior gen 1 as it has great retro styling (looks like a factory style option to me) while using a much thicker material and still allows me to run a hidden winch and not cut my front fenders to the 97+ style. The quality on the JCR was superb and they seem to think things through on the engineering side better than some. If I were going for a more full blown modified look with good angles and functionality I wouldn’t hesitate to grab a JCR bumper again. I’ve had 4 of them so far. Here is a compilation of styles I was collecting when making my decision. The last one is the one I went with for my newest build.

As said above, the weight is 10w30. It’s good to keep in mind that these engines run a flat tapper cam so an oil with added zinc or a separate bottle of zinc additive is a good idea. Vr1 racing oil is what I used to run as it has good levels of zinc. But there are tons of options.

What version do you have? A picture would be great