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Much appreciated!

Thanks! To the OP, I’ve used the moog/precision ones before as well. They seem to be a bit more harsh than oem but they worked fine for the two or so years I had them on my YJ

Floor has been completely prepped and POR-15’d. Started working under the cab cleaning the tunnel and prepping for primer sealer. There are a few strategic places for some seam sealer on the under side as well. Once that’s done I’ll shoot epoxy primer then raptor liner. Also removed the crossmember frame brackets and will replace all the stripped out nuts and weld on new ones. Really happy I was able to save so much of this oem floor.

@eaglescout526 Any chance you can help locate some oem?

The factory’s application of seam sealer is terrible. They would seal the inside of a horizontal seam and water just gets trapped there. Here are a few places I found rust hiding under the seam sealer which was just slopped-on all over the place. The quality of the seam sealing and welding between this 90 and my old 91 is night and day difference. The 91 had a much more qualified welder and seam sealer at the helm when it was built. Not sure if this is an AMC-Chrysler thing or just a bad assembly line. Anyways, every square inch of the truck has been cleaned, degreased and blasted down. There is no dust or any residue left even in the nasty areas like the cab corners and inner cowl. 90% of the metal work is complete and I’m getting ready to treat the surface rust then POR15 the roof and floor along with a few lightly rusted areas. Once that’s cured I’ll be seam-sealing the overhead and vertical seams with 3m heavy bodied seam sealer. Then comes brush-on seam sealer over all the pinch welds inside. Once that’s finished and cured I’ll scuff everything, do a wipe-down cleaning with acetone and shoot epoxy primer inside the entire cab and over all metal work. That will be followed by either lizard skin or raptor liner inside the cab (will still be installing carpet over the top). Note: There are two spots (pictured) where the firewall meets the inner fender that are seam sealed. The seam sealer here tends to crack and allow water to settle into that area and start rusting which later turns into rusty floor boards. I recommend drilling a 1/4” drain hole here to allow water to drain in addition to a coat of POR 15 in that channel along with some 3m 2 parts seam sealer which can handle the temps under the hood.

Looking forward to your updates! I reference your threat at least twice a week for little tech tidbits.

Anyone else up for Moab later this year?

I’ve used SEM as wel with excellent results. It does require good prep though. Also heard great things about this stuff: https://www.eastwood.com/ew-plastic-resurfacer-matte-black-aerosol.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwtIaVBhBkEiwAsr7-c1E_tgoPGvjOnDirkBdFS7IXqyIuFc9f1AekwmkF3icfUEQ7A7n_1BoCxg4QAvD_BwE&wickedid=580522474071&wickedsource=google&wv=3.1

Didn’t take final pics of the floor repair but all metal work on the truck cab and frame is complete. Still have some bed work to do but that will be a bit later. Body work Is next. Plan on cleaning up the firewall as well. Will POR-15 the floor then seam seal everything followed by lizard skin. The underside is getting some selective Por-15 then epoxy primer over everything l followed by undercoating.

Back at it. More pics to come!

I’m in Arkansas. Also no inspection of any sort. I’d recommend just putting a stainless cat on. It’s cheap and its better than smelling un-burnt gas all day long. Something like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-53035 That’s for 2.25 pipe. Here is a list of others: https://www.summitracing.com/search?GroupBy=SKU&N=filter-options%3Ain-stock%2Bpart-type%3Acatalytic-converters%2Bbrand%3Amagnaflow%2Boutlet-quantity%3A1&PageSize=25&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Ascending These are all stainless spun cats. There is no ceramic element inside. The stainless honeycomb inside is just a pass through element with no restriction. It just heats up with the exhaust and burns up un-burnt fuel left over from the combustion chamber. I’ve been down this road and ran many a vehicle with no cat. On an older vehicle all it did was smell like straight gas.

Hadn’t seen those before but they are the right shape. What are the dimensions? Are they easy to find?

Shift solenoids are a possibility. Torque converter, fluid levels and a bad connection somewhere in the transmission harness are also things I’d check

Welcome to the club! I’d recommend a regular spun stainless cat. There are many universal ones from Magnaflow etc. Summit sells them for under $100. Won’t compromise your exhaust flow and will keep your exhaust from reeking of gas.

Just got some info back from @natander2ksometime. The MJ takeover will be September 22nd-25th with trail rides and events over the extended weekend. I think I can make it by then. Apparently it’s on the “All things Jeep Comanche” group on FB which I don’t have.

I’d recommend you spend some time learning how to tune the sniper system. It’s very capable and user friendly for what it is. You can easily tune driveability issues with the assistance of various forums and manuals. Tuning the throttle plate opening vs iacv is crucial for idle. Use the monitor and see what’s happening to your engine when it dies at idle. Progressive linkage may also be necessary depending on which model sniper you run.

Another option: https://www.jegs.com/i/Crown+Automotive/077/55002229/10002/-1?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqPGUBhDwARIsANNwjV5DUETZqRoQvXqlnfgb7q_SIrLew_I2PogjQwUL4Eg2RlsNbe3-EmIaArlMEALw_wcB

Bumping this back up again. Any ideas about a Moab meet up?

If they let you order it, they ship direct from Crown. You can also copy the number and check with summit. They should give you an eta.

Thank you!

Crown makes new ones. I bought one through quadratec. Took a couple of week to ship

I agree. The full windows and older style mirrors look very clean. Those rounded mirrors were not my cup of tea

Wonder what they are out of??? The whole frame is aluminum and plastic. Are they making these in house?