ghetdjc320

Had to pause to build a paint booth. Should be complete in a day or so.

I used dynamat followed by 3/4” dynaliner. Looks to me like that’s going to do the trick and work great

Also curious. I like the idea of that corner armor as well

I was thinking of something similar. With a good front and rear trace out, I could trim it from a generic mud flap

I’ve done a few

Bed cleaned up. Lots more body work left but the major pieces are all in.

If the top of the shackle points forward to the TC 10* as they’re suggesting that would be great. As it is, it’s pointing approx -25* if their statement is to have any logic.

That’s like saying there is still gold to be found. If you know where they are please let me know

True but royalties to bare the logo are a tiny percentage of the cost and relatively easy to apply for.

Bump

I haven’t heard any updates for some time but was wondering if anyone has this project on their radar. We could really use some and it doesn’t seem like it would be that difficult to reproduce. I do recall there was a member making the brackets for the rear splash guards. This post is somewhat self serving as I need some myself

Just knocked out what I hope to be the last of the patch panels. I’ll sand down the hole bed and shoot it with epoxy primer before adding some evercoat fibertech over the weld joints followed by Rage then a glazing compound as a skim coat. Bottom of the bed and inside will be raptor lined. Some strategic use of seam sealer and adding better drainage is in order as well.

Yep that’s it! Got mine at Morris 4x4. Took about maybe 2-3 weeks to ship. I still have it all wrapped up in the shop along with a ton of other things. The D ring version of this bumper adds some cost but that’s because they add significant bracing for those d ring mount points. It’s a very nice bumper for sure. Was planning to go with the Hanson rear MJ bumper (not advertised but they will make them upon request) as it matches nicely but I also have an oem bumper and hitch I could use if need be.

Could just be some slight variances in the flare mounting holes. They do have some play in them

Perfect, thanks!

Hello all, my MJ is all apart so I can’t get this dimension but I need the space between the front and rear flares for stock flares on a short bed rig. The back edge of the front flare to the front edge of the rear flare. TIA!

KJ 8.25 nuff said. Right bolt patter, better width than stock, nice sized disks, 3” axle tubes that don’t spin, plenty of locker options, non oversized pumpkin, no shims needed to setup carrier due to adjusters. It has plenty of brackets to remove just like the 8.8. They are also relatively easy to find and economical. If your swapping front and rear axles that’s a different story

Centric is a go to if oem want not available. Normally a pretty good bet

Bed corner replaced. Thanks @Pete M for those pieces from the sacrificial bed

All welded up and smoothers out. Added a backing plate to the bottom for extra strength.

Updates! Doing the final metal work and prepping the patch panels. @Dzimm made me a custom set of tail light housings for the 1156/1157 waterproof sockets. These use 4 locator tabs and have a much better seal. All the wiring is sealed as well. Trying to track down a set of splash guards/mud flaps if anyone has any they’d like to sell/trade.

The KJ Liberty 8.25 is the way to go. It runs 2.5” wider than the stock Dana 35/44 and matches the truck perfectly. Disk brakes are simple to service and self clean which is a nice advantage in certain applications. Plus it’s a relatively easy axle to setup with gears and a locker

I also ran the Metal Cloak springs in my MJ. They worked great and stayed in the bucket as described. The higher quality springs are typically Metal Cloak, Old Man Emu and Currie. Rubicon express are a decent option still though. Ride quality is still mostly determined by the shocks for a coil spring setup. For a Jeep Speed style rig built for high speed off-roading, the acos pro with the hydraulic bump stops is a nice setup when tuned and setup properly.

True, for some reason I was thinking he was looking for 6x5.5 pattern

I’m thinking based on axles as well. Almost all the 80’s and 90’s 1/2-3/4t Chevy trucks and vans used a 6x5.5 pattern. If you’re looking for something from a Jeep then most FSJ such as the wagoneer came with that pattern also. Isuzu rodeo/Honda passport also. The Jeep wheel may be a good option.