ghetdjc320

This is what I was looking for. Never seen the bed caps soo straight. Looking forward ti the cut and buff. Had a couple of light clear runs as the fine settings weren’t perfect when shooting.

Sealer, base and 1 coat of clear so far.

Primer has all been blocked. One final 600 grit sanding, sealer then base and clear going on.

Much appreciated!

I’d ditch weatherstripping in favor of trim. Should be pretty easy to fab some aluminum or similar trim. That original rubber surrounding the rear window wasn’t really a seal. It was only successful in trapping some moisture between the glass an channel. Aftermarket rear windows do not use the rubber trim and instead use a metal frame that “trims” the glass opening.

That’s it! Wonder if the mirrors themselves are also amp connectors.

No worries. Although I could use all the mirror wiring, I really just need the connector or pigtail and can build my own.

I seem to be in an area void of an power mirror cherokees

Any chance you could spare that part of the harness?

Looks right. Just need the other side of it

Looking for a connector that plugs in to the back of the power mirror switch. Looks like some kind of molex connector. Here is a picture of where it plugs in. Also, any sort of wiring diagram would be most excellent as I will be building the harness for the mirrors. Tagging @Minuit @eaglescout526

My thoughts would also lean towards tuning. Timing? Air in cooling system? The under hood temps in these MJs always seems to be hard to control regardless of the engine under the hood.

Here are the layers in order after metal prep was finished: epoxy primer, stranded filler over weld joints, rage ultra filler for small dings and general straightening, rage ultra extra as a skim coat, glaze, high build epoxy primer (then a final sanding), epoxy sealer, 2k base coat, 2k clear coat. Most all epoxy primers can be shot as sealer by reducing and using a different fluid tip in the gun. Only reason I shoot a sealer of the high build primer is because you can expose some filler in certain areas and when shooting paint with a lot of pearl and metallics, you really want to spray over a uniform surface color that is at least 600 grit or finer.

Shot some high build primer since these panels had to be worked so much. Few little spots to smooth out then it’s on to sealer.

This is what a straight and true bed looks like. Key parts bedside and cutout panels for the lower drivers quarter and bed section. All grafted in and body worked. Epoxy primer, final block sanding then sealer up next. Cab should be getting into body work later tomorrow.

Show us some pics of what you are going to be working on. Any dents or rust that needs to be repaired? Has the truck been repainted at all? Is the clear coat still intact? As stated above, strip it all down. Bag and tag all the hardware and keep everything organized. You’ll need a good place to paint. If you paint outside (and we’ve all done that at some point) you’ll need a perfect day. Be prepared to redo your work as necessary. Just to put things into perspective, I have at least 80 hours so far in just bodywork on the bed itself. At some point, you may decide that your time is worth more than the 5k to have it done. If you do have someone else do it though thoroughly educate yourself on the process (3m videos on YouTube are very good) and hold them to a high standard. Getting a vehicle fresh out of paint looks awesome, but after a few days of closer inspection, you’ll notice where corners were cut. If you decide to DIY, there are plenty of MJ specific paint projects in the various areas on the forum and in member projects that will give you an excellent idea of what is involved and how far into it you’d like to go. just my $.02

That’s a good call. Was going to post the link for the clevite part you need for .001 undersized but your method will ensure the best result as there can be slight variations between each journal.

would be nice to just fast forward through body work, I’d like to see it when it’s all done and it’s my least favorite part of the build for the final skim coats I am switching to Evercoat Rage Ultra Extra. Gives me a realistic 15 minutes of work time which is enough to get it nicely leveled .

Mic’ing the crank is the best policy. Using plastigauge or similar also yields great results to get what you need and ensure the best clearance.

Was going through withdrawal lol

Clevite 77 or King bearings are my go to for engine builds

More body work…

Given the scarce activity on the site recently, my guess is that most can’t access it due to the expired certificate. Tagging @Pete M

Same here. Tagging @Pete M

Progress continues with body work. Getting close to being ready for the final skim coat. Getting all the lines perfect after welding in new metal is quite a chore. Worth it though for sure. 30 years of abuse is finally being undone. Fibertech filler used over an weld joints and Rage Ultra to smooth out any imperfections. The final skim will be done with Rage Ultra Extra as it gives you “extra” time to work large panels before curing. Block sanding followed by another coat of epoxy primer, block sanding again then epoxy sealer.