ghetdjc320

Well, I’ve been down to many stroker roads to ever do one again. The cost to power trade off just isn’t there. As @neohic stated, it’s a very dated platform to begin with. I’m neck deep in the LS swap and as @Limeyjeeper said, it’s going to run you 10k plus to do a decent ls swap if you want a clean install. i wouldn’t use very much from novak aside from their radiator and motor mounts. They are very helpful but their products are lacking in thoughtful engineering imho. Id stick with just freshening up the 4.0 and probably gears or save up significantly more for an ls swap. Keep in mind that there are many GM engines that get labeled as an “LS” so there will be wildly varying results with the end product depending in what you use. I went the LS6 route as i don’t fell an ax15 can handle much more. But for a 4wd tranny, there isn’t a great alternative that has the closer gearing and compact size of the ax15. If you want to build an extra strong ax15, get a new unit from Aisin and send it to Marlin Crawler for their R151 upgrades. Even stock though, the ax15 can handle quite a bit of TQ and HP.

I’ve had bar style and t handle style flaring tools. OTC make a decent bar style flaring tool. The t handle one from titan works significantly better at producing quality flares consistently. None work as well as that K-tool unit in Limeys link. If you haven’t used one, you don’t know what your missing. Speed, quality and consistency are most excellent.

Not sure, haven’t driven it yet. Sits nicely though. Keep in mind that tubular control arms without flex joints really limit suspension flex and but a lot of stress on your bracketry. The stock stamped stew design was actually well thought out. The WJ arms are also designed to have flex at the joints but shortening the sleeve negates that design somewhat. That necessary modification is what kept me from going the WJ control arm route along with some “up country” front coils and some slightly longer shackles.

So do you want ones that look like the small pics or the larger one? Or do you want the larger one to just say Jeep instead of amx?

Is the 43mm portion removable? Maybe with a razor blade? If so, the design is very similar to the ones I’m making for the turbines. Is the lettering silver or chrome?

I run the bds 3” kit. That’s a 1.75” lift from the add a leaf rear. The leaf is about the same thickness as the factory leaves. You just need to redrill the locating pin hole to properly center them. Most add a leafs wil be for an XJ. You’re looking for one that is the right length so they are staggered propery in the pack. You could also go with a decent set of cherokee lift springs and just swap the main leaf with your MJ one. It’s been reported that it’s roughly a 1” difference in height. So basically, a 3.5” lift xj spring will net 2.5 on an MJ once the main leaf has been swapped.

Good info, I’ve been looking at those recently.

They are the center stickers that go on the caps. These are for my turbine caps but I can resize to fit others as well.

I can make them in almost any size if you get me the dimensions

@Pete M Feel like doing this?

Looks like a good kit. I’d double check to see what throw out bearing it uses though. If it’s not a National, Timken, Koyo or similar, chuck it and get one from the auto parts store that is one of the above. The best ~$50 you’ll spend while doing an external slave setup. You *may* also need the master cylinder 7/16 inverted flare to -3 AN adapter. The 91+ master cylinders used the roll pin retainer style master fitting but the older ones used a brake line style screw-in fitting. Looks like that may be in the kit though from AA.

Pair of NOS door handles along with the new door glass and tailgate lock actuator came in today. Will be doing a similar tailgate lock to what @Gjeep did in his build (thanks for that write up by the way) since I also have the locking Truck Covers USA cover thanks to @Limeyjeeper‘s assistance in getting these one-off covers manufactured for the Comanche.

Quick update: here is a design I ended up setting on. These are a bubble design so they aren’t an exact replica of the turbine wheel caps. I have a sample batch of these I’m trying but I can make slight variations if anyone wants some.

They are available at team cherokee. One side is just a washer and the other side has the captured nut. The nut side is available for sale and for the washer side you can use a plastic washer from the hardware store. Link to part: https://teamcherokee.com/front-or-rear-window-retainer-nut-oem-jeep-cherokee-1997-2001/

That pic looks familiar. Those two vacuum lines go straight to the hvac panel. The black one is the master feed that the control deck uses to operate all the vacuum motors on the hvac box. The white one is for the heater core bypass valve.

I’m back stateside for now. Sent you a PM

My cross cab and passenger door harness are all HO era. But none of the rest of the wiring is either HO or Renix. It’s all custom wiring from Painless.

Yes, power everything on this one. That would be awesome if you do!

Yep

Bed is in epoxy now. Body work next

The topside of the bed is going under the knife now.

I know this is a total crapshoot but I’m looking for the drivers side power door harness for a 91+ 2dr xj or Comanche. I have the cross cab and the passenger side but just can’t find the drivers side. In a pinch I’d take a 4dr one but would much prefer to use the right harness. Tagging everyone I know who collects rare parts, I’m sure I’m missing some some: @Strokermjcomanche @Red Mistress @Gjeep@saveevryjp1998 TIA

More pics… My body shop supplier recommended I try the PPG CRE epoxy primer. This stuff is like industrial strength. Can’t believe how well it sticks. Mixed it up 2:1:.5 and sprayed with Devilbiss FL gun with a 1.8 tip. Started at 30psi but it sprays better around 25psi the way I have it mixed and with my desired fan and flow settings.

Both doors prepped for primer. You will need to remove the small U channel in the window channel to install the one piece glass. I also had a couple of repairs to make on my doors. For some reason, all the Comanches and XJs I’ve seen develop a crack at the same spot in the door. Added 2 auxiliary drain hole near the front and rear of the door. Also filled the inside lower seam with POR15 and allowed it to seep down into the pinch joint. I don’t want water in the door in the first place, but if some moistures manages to get in, it will not start rusting there.

Yes I am. Actually working on doors at the moment. Pics to come