ghetdjc320

Cool, that’s a nice kit! I have also been eyeing their electric e brake caliper

kit shows it’s the d154 2 piston calipers. How did you get the 4’s? https://www.wilwood.com/brakekits/brakekitsprodrear?itemno=140-12567-dr&year=1999&make=jeep&model=wrangler&option=dana+35+rear+w/o+abs

Wilwood front and rear are approx 1700 and will be 4 piston fronts and 2 piston rears. Blaine at black magic brakes has the rear d35/44 disk kit for like $425 right now with free shipping. I’ve not noticed better stopping power with just switching from drum to disks. However, the advantages of a self cleaning system that does much better at dispersing heat is what I am looking for. Easier to service as well. To me, the little single piston calipers on 11” disks are just not that big of a difference when for $300 more I could have the wilwood 12+” rotors with dual piston setups. And yes, I would want to do the fronts as well down the road. For now though, I am looking into doing an electric brake booster setup. The mustang rotors and srt8 calipers are a nice combo but will require spacers and likely the master cylinder may need to be bumped up to 1.25 bore for those 6 piston calipers depending on the bore size. If I had a hydroboost or electric booster setup than I could probably get away with the zj style disks in the rear. My ideal setup though would run the wilwoods and hydroboost/electric booster. Right now I have a 8” dual diaphragm booster with a 1.125 bore. My cam doesn’t give me much vacuum to work with though.

I’m running a built 4.0 and with 4.56 gearing towing a 1 boat/trailer around through the hills I want better brakes. I used to run hydroboost with wilwood brakes on my YJ and that is the sort of breaking I am looking for in my MJ someday.

I’ve been wanting to get the wilwood kit for the Dana 35 rear. Would have to be modified to fit the non c-clip d35 though. I know some may say its a waste to work on a 35 but my axle is original to the truck, fully trussed (tnt customs), revolution axle shafts, 4.56 gears and a truetrac. Only running 33’s so it’s a good setup for me. I want better brakes for towing though and the self cleaning feature of disks would be very helpful for where I live.

Ok, here are the results we’ve all been waiting for. Went to get it vacuumed and recharged today. The expansion valve will sit about an inch further away from the firewall than the original. The results are... phenomenal! I’ve never had such amazing ac in any vehicle. The temperature is super consistent regardless of fan speed. With the old system it would only be cold up to medium fan speed. I can now blast it on high and it is the same temperature as the low setting. I attribute that to a much more efficient core design. I’m sure that sealing the box and insulating the air gaps around the evaporator helped as well. The heat index was 97 today (actual temperature 85 every day of the year) and it didn’t struggle at all to keep the cab ice cold even in traffic. Please note for future reference that the temperature probe mod works fine and I would recommend the newer core design over the tube and fin setup but it will take some very light mods. If anyone needs this posted as a write-up let me know. Thanks

They had a bunch of sets in stock when I ordered back in June last year. I highly doubt they “custom make” any of them. Probably just put in an order and it takes a while to receive them from wherever they are manufactured.

The bushings in mine came completely loose and started clunking. I got the 3/1 springs and they were very stiff. Paint looked like someone had poured it out of a bucket. Got them for $160/PR plus shipping though. Ended up giving them away and getting some good used springs for my SOA

@Minuit I know this is a bit off topic but I though you would appreciate this being that you have a deep knowledge of how these dashes are put together:

Turns out I have a plate and fin condenser as well. Took me a while to get it all back together since I wanted to do some rewiring while I had it all apart. Now I have a fully restored and functioning cargo light! Taking the Jeep into the ac shop tomorrow to get the system vacuumed and recharged. Hopefully it works well. I worked a lot on the actual ac housing and sealed all the joints. Also replaced the foam in all the seals. I can say that I’ve never been in a car with this much air coming out of the vents lol. Smells much better now that I cleaned out all the crap that was in it.

I used 91 XJ bushings and they were an exact fit for spring eyes and shackle mount. I ran the poly bushings but would have preferred rubber if I could find them locally

Turns out the noise is my carrier bearing. They are new but it must have been damaged when installed or defective. Will get all the diff bearings swapped out

I’ll try try to get vent temps once it’s back together

Thanks! The condenser is a stock replacement but I did it a couple of years ago so I don’t remember what I installed. My MJ was in storage for about a year and a half. I also have a triple 10” fan setup that kicks on when the ac comes on or when the engine needs the cooling. Keeps the ac working well even when in traffic at idle.

The plate and fin design should provide more cooling surface area so will report back once installed

Indeed this does work. Here are some pics of the conversion and how I decided to go about it:

found The answer I was looking for in post 24 of this thread: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/scarlett-pig-244016/index2/ That is exactly what I’ll do. I’ll let you know how it works. For future reference, although you can find some nos tube and fin evaporators, the part number now interchanges to the newer plate and fin design. It fits well inside the box but does not have a temperature probe provision so one has to fab something up. The 97+ XJs used a low and high side pressure switch. The low side acted as a temperature control switch for the system to keep from freezing up. The 91-96 used the temperature probe and high side switch. As I mentioned before, my temperature switch never shutoff my compressor and my evaporator never froze up even in the heat and humidity of Guam. I’ve had that happen on a mini split ac unit in the house before though. Very annoying lol. The only thing I installed to get my compressor to cycle on and off was the high side pressure switch by the accumulator/dryer. I got a universal inline unit from nostalgicac. Here is the part I used: https://nostalgicac.com/oil-flush-refrigerant-switches/ac-pressure-switch/female-binary-with-inline-switch-port.html when I bought my mj it was stripped clean of every under hood ac part

https://teamcherokee.com/a-c-evaporator-core-assembly-heavy-duty-oem-cherokee-1991-1996/ please save one for me though lol

When my ac was first installed, I had no high pressure switch and it would never cycle off. A/C still worked just fine though. That temperature switch in the evaporator never did anything (perhaps it was faulty??). Once I retrofit a pressure switch into the line the compressor would cycle on and off. Team cherokee has the oem cores for about $125 right now. I’ll have to grab one I suppose and use it. It just takes forever to ship out here. The core I received from rock auto fits in the opening. I could probably fit the temperature probe into the fins on the side just fine. I may try to get it to work or just get the old style

So can I just put the temperature sensor probe into the new core?

Hello all, just removed my dash to get the evaporator core swapped. Turns out that the new part I received from rock auto doesn’t have a temperature probe spot for the old probe. I am on Guam so swapping parts is next to impossible. Can I make this new core work and possibly bypass the temp sensor or reinstall it differently?

My trans mount is new too

Here is a short video clip on the drive home. The phone was able to pick up the noise especially around the last 3-4 seconds of the video. IMG_0911.MOV

I was try to think of what this noise sounds like to give more perspective. The closest think I can think of is a drill press at like 300 rpm drilling lightly into heavy steel. Definitely a metal on metal sound. I wish I could record it clearly

interesting, I’m running black magic pads but they didn’t come with the clips you are referring to. Even with the floating though, I can’t see how they could cause the grinding noise I’m hearing. Also, the noise doesn’t change while braking. I was planning a swap to the pre 90 knuckles for brake upgrades after I fix this stupid noise though.