ghetdjc320

There is no “lens” in the cargo light. They are a single piece of clear plastic. Everything but the “lens” area is painted black. Just restored mine with a good headlight polish then repainted it. Looks like new

Worked on my under dash lights today as well as my rear b pillar lights. Trying to get all factory options working again. Also have an oem cargo light to add. The Sony receiver is on its way. Here Is a pic of what I’ve been working on

I’ve been tossing around the idea of moding the dash for a double din head unit. Used to have one in my TJ and really enjoyed some of the features (especially a backup cam). Most of the pictures I saw involved moving the hvac controls down and deleting the center vent. However, as has been noted, the center vent is attached to the plenum and if I moved the hvac controls there it would not seal the plenum back up. I would also loose the center vent and I actually really like that vent. So instead I decided to move the hvac controls to the top and move the radio to the center. I plan on running a Sony CarPlay headunit like the ax1000 which has a single din frame but a double din screen. I’ll post pics on how I will install this setup. I plan to retain the center vent as well but move it down about 1/2”. Should be a good clean oem looking mod when done.

that pretty much sums up why I want to do custom gauges as well. That and accuracy

Will do! Contemplating a dash and sound overhaul

Thanks for the ideas! I’ll check into building a custom piece

Thinking about an alpine Halo setup... still in the contemplative phase though

Looking at putting in a set of auto meter gauges in my 91 mj. I’d like to do all 6 dash gauges. Has anyone ever fabed up some sort of panel or mount for this?

My plan is using 5.25 component speakers (morel or JL). Will be mounting the tweeters in the door panel and the b pillar panel. There are 4x6 to 5.25 adaptors for the rear pillars (common adapters for tj dash speakers). Head unit I’m not sure about the head unit but I definitely want to do double DIN. A pair of 10” JL subs and amp. My entire interior was dynamated after I replaced my rusty drivers floor board and coated them. Used ACC carpet with a heavy mass backer. New windshield seals and door baskets. Cabin is nice and quiet so should make for a good tune. Although it’s true you can find “cheap” consumer electronics, you still get what you pay for up to a point.

Personally I would never run the zj aluminum d44. The d35 in the zj is no upgrade either (other than disk brakes) An 8.25 from an xj would be ok. I’d also say 4.10’s if you will never go bigger than 31’s. 4.56 for my 33s is perfect for mixed on and off-road and if I want to go with 35’s it would still be acceptable gearing. Just my $.02

Nice tip! I need to replace my door handles as well but the baskets are shot

I kept my dana 35 and added a tnt truss and revolution axle shafts along with 4.56 gears and a truetrac. I wanted to keep the original axles to stay true to my restomod truck. My mj came with a non-disconnect HP dana 30 (originally an abs axle). You don't want to swap in a tj front axle since they are low pinion IMHO. Also, drum brakes are really not a bad setup in a rear axle. I prefer them for the larger parking brake while towing. The advantages of disks are NOT better stopping power unless you really boost you master cylinder output (like a hydroboost setup)

Yes, Pete is right. Just swap in the appropriate sensors. There are two versions of most switches, one is for a light and the other for the gauge.

Yes I know! Please look 4 messages back (5 counting this one).

Yes, please see my previous post. Also, you need to look at the transfer case output not the tranny.

That’s it! 92 was the year the yj switched to an electric speedo. You will need to provide the ecu with the speed signal from this sender otherwise it will try to stall when you come to a stop.

it is a simple swap once you do it. It may be difficult to wrap your head around it the first time. Let us know if you need help with specific items

Use a vss from a 1991 yj. It has both the electrical out for the ecu and a cable drive for your speedometer.

For gauges, if you must have updated ones, you can grab a gauge cluster from an HO XJ along with the connector for it and just splice them into your harness. You will need to replace the vss on your transfer case to the later style so you can run the new electric speedo.

I know this can all be very confusing. If you study all you wiring diagrams and pinouts carefully you can make it work. The engine harness does not actually enter the cab, it just appears that it does. As for gauges, you will be in for a major headache if you want to swap over the entire HO harness including gauges. I am speaking from personal experience here. As for the relay box, if you notice in the instructions for the Mopar kit you will see that it only has a couple of separate trays mounted to the firewall. It does not utilize the pdc.

exactly, the Chrysler MPI kit did not even connect to the bulkhead connector. Here are the install instructions for that kit: https://www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/installation_instructions/2688.pdf since you are swapping in an HO 4.0 there is no need to mess with the alternator regulation. Just let the ecu handle the regulation like it always does on the 4.0. Alternatively, you can get an external regulator which is what I’ve installed when running high output alternators.

the bulkhead connector provides very little to actually run the engine. Unless you are very comfortable with electrical, just leave the bulkhead alone and for that matter all your MJ wiring. You need the engine harness only. It is bundled with all sorts of other wiring from the YJ. Look at a pinout for that bulkhead connector. You will see that it doesn’t really run anything engine-wise. The ecu needs very little from that bulkhead connector to run the engine. What it needs are those 5 wires (sometimes even less depending on how far you strip down the harness). I’ve stripped these harnesses down several times now for engine swaps and it’s pretty simple now but the first time it was a daunting task when you are looking at all those wires. Another option is just grab a Howell/fitech/sniper tbi setup and install a regular distributor (like an hei from dui). That is about as stand alone as it gets. Just provide power and fuel.

You can run the MIL from the ecu to your dash check engine light. Just look for the pinout from the ecu you are using.

I’d recommend you not try to use the HO harness for your gauges. It can be done but it’s not as straight forward as it would seem. 92-95 YJs used different gauges than the earlier gen even though 91-95 is the 4.0 HO. Essentially, you just want the new HO ecu to just run the fuel injection and ignition. here is what the ecu needs to run (I may be missing one or two items) CPS signal from flywheel (or hesco crank dampener cps kit like Mopar used to use on the retrofit kit) CTS from the thermostat housing cam signal from distributor constant and switched power VSS From transmission or transfer case depending on 2wd or 4wd. Your old harness will connect to your oil pressure sender and CTS on the back of the head. Just don’t try to integrate the HO harness into anything more than running the engine. If you decide to clean up the harness, you can strip out a great deal of wiring and simplify it down to stand alone just to run the engine.

Yep that’s right. Just focus on the 5 to fire and leave the rest of the wiring alone. If you are electrically inclined, you can thin out the harness to a stand alone setup