ghetdjc320

Exactly. It also says nothing about your compression ratio which is a key components. You need to plan and know every build spec of those engine internals as well as have all the machine work decided to move forward. Cam specs, rocker arm specs, head gasket specs, machine work specs... everything

My seats have been reupholstered so it must have been changed when they were redone.

As I said, they weren’t too common. I ran across a couple in Mexico that had them. Otherwise it’s just been pictures of YJs or previous owner experience. I don’t have it in front of me now but the parts list for early YJs list it as an option for export models.

Looking for a pair of cab vents. Just need the actual pop in insert. Mine are beyond repair. Let me know what you have

What is the rpm while idling?

Anyone interested in any other variants? Extended idle for police package XJs is an option

YJ in the US only came with the d35 which was a non c-clip axle with 10” drums from 87-89 then went to the regular c-clip style in 90 as far as I know. Export versions had d44 options as well it seems, but they weren’t too common. If you want a nice d44 for a swap I’d grab a rodeo/passport axle. I’ve done several write ups on them and can help you out if you want to go that route.

Deffinitely good info. You can also see his work on angelfire with cam specs for every cam made. Jeepstrokers.com is also very helpful.

Ok, I was probably the first to ever try the sniper route and bought the original Holley sniper in 2017 for my stroker YJ. Used a Clifford 4 barrel intake. Suffice it to say, there is such a thing as too much carb/tbi. The sniper has large injectors and can keep up with fairly high cfm requirements. On a stroker it was cutting the injector pulse down far to low to get the right afr. Since then, they have released a Jeep specific tbi/efi unit along with a nice distributor (for a 258 but fits the 242/4.0 also) for timing control. The Jeep specific unit is very likely to be too tall to fit under the hood of an xj/mj since it was made as a replacement to the old carter/bbd carbs for the 4.2s. At the moment, don’t get bogged down in what injectors, throttle body etc. you will need. You need to build your engine internals first and then figure what the engine will require. It’s true, you could figure that all out now but if you want actual practical advise please tell us what kind of “stroker” you are planning to build. You have referenced a “kit” several times and we keep asking for the specs but haven’t received any. A stroker can be anything from a 4.2 mini stroker with a 232 crank to a 5.0 monster with offset ground custom crank. They will all have different requirements. Once you post up what you plan to build we can provide valuable input. Until then it’s all just speculation

I never had plans to have them made in China but was curious how much it would cost to have them made there. That being said, I want them to be a quality reproduction no matter where they are made (anyone who doesn’t take pride in their work produces crap products regardless of where they live imo). Since @carolinajeepman has already created a prototype I will defer to his project and keep working on the rest of these items to bring them into production.

It’s a small Allen head set screw. You may have to use a small screw extractor is the Allen socket is rounded off

I run the 99+ intake and it works well. Don’t have any dyno numbers yet but hope to get some soon. My TB was bored to 63mm since that is what the stock opening on the intake is. I got mine from Strokedjeep.com

Here is the long awaited rarest of rare switch options:

I’ve though about something like that but there is a compound curve that needs to be matched to look right. That’s an option though

I have a 96 valve cover on mine and the rear valve goes to vacuum. Front valve goes to air box

Well I’m sick and stuck at home so I have plenty of time to search

I should have another nos set soon!

was planning on plastic with the anti-splash grooves. Thanks for the pics. Will edit the files accordingly. Working in the second trim cover now

What would be relatively simple to produce is a universal tail light bucket that would allow you to install your own leds. I could 3D print those and they would mount at all factory points but would use led panels. I can work on some renderings of what that would look like. It would be much nicer than those rustys tail light setups

So I’ve been working on several reproduction pieces for the MJ (hope to bring them into production soon). I was wanting to see what it would take to get the taillights remade. Most of the manufacturers I reach out to will not return my request. I finally found a Chinese company that said they would do it. $5700 for the molds and about $3 per light with a minimum order of 1000 units. I’ve also looked into silicone molds, 3D printing etc. I’ve been thinking that the easiest thing to do would be to just reproduce the actual lens. I’ve seen several threads where people say they are either working on them or have a lead on some way to get them made but nothing comes from it. What is the most viable solution you’ve come across?

9.25 is the dimension I received off of an amc splash guard for the rear. Fronts were the same width from the dimensions I received. Let me know what you have. I plan on putting all these files together in the diy section but also plan on producing repop switch covers and mud flaps. Will start another thread regarding where I have made it with tail lights

Will get to work on that one next. I’ll reference one with the amc logo

Just grab an angle grinder

Can do if you can get me dimensions. Working on second switch trim cover also with sports bar lights and transmission switch. The plan is to produce the trim covers, mud flaps, cargo lights and possibly... tail lights. I will start with the switch covers though. Have to reinvest to keep moving on to larger projects.

Thanks! Please check my post in the tech section about replacement switch trim covers