ghetdjc320

The Napier’s (which I have and love) don’t give you any more vertical clearance. Most of the trimming is done on the leading and trailing edges of the flares to give a “wider” opening. If you want flares that really open up the wheel wells then I would recommend notch customs flares. I can’t speak as to their quality or fitment but they will open up your wheel wells. IMHO they look sweet if they are molded into the fender and painted body color. The picture attached is not mine but I did get some inspirational que’s from that truck (and a few others). Those are the notch flares

The “rubber tensioner” is just a chain guide and does not tension the timing chain. Aside from a few one-off parts from Hesco (e.g. thermostat housing spacer, locked dampener) I try to stay away from them. Most of their parts are simply repackaged oem parts that are sold as “specialty” with significant markup (like their “custom” vss for adding mpfi to vehicles with a cable driven speedo (it’s just an oem 91 YJ vss for twice the cost and there are many other examples). Dealing with Hesco reminds me of dealing with Clifford Performance. It’s their way or the highway and the customer is always wrong. That has been my experience at least. Personally I would just piece together a stroker “kit” myself. However, we still want to know what kit your friend is offering you. Please let us know what it includes

My oem 91 mj visors are plastic

if your talking obd1 HO models then you are working with a 39psi system. Calculate injector need accordingly based on HP, engine size, VE, and max rpm. Typically something in the 24-30 range works for most strokers. Adjustable fpr helps to get your afr’s where you need them (afr gauge is a bit of a must for tuning). Most of the strokers I see built don’t do anything to tune them other than new injectors. That being said, I think they are leaving a lot of power on the table by not getting it tuned. Personally, I’d say stand alone efi systems are the way to go if you want to get the most power from any setup. However, to the OP: at a minimum you will need different injectors but to get the fueling just right, add an adjustable fpr from hesco and an afr gauge to tune it.

The stroker kits now available have made it easier to a degree. As mentioned above. do plenty of research and built it right. If you’ve never done an engine rebuild before then perhaps take it to a reputable, competent machine shop instead of tryin to diy. I do recommend that you have a look at jeepstrokers.com and check out the builds over there. Learn all the specs on the base 4.0 so you know exactly what you want to have done with your stroker. There is a nice stroker calculator there as well to help you get started. (Not trying time promote another site by the way, just helping the OP find more resources to make an informed decision). Also, let us know what kit you have available to you.

Any chance someone could please upload a template for the rears? If we just had something to work off of it would be easy enough to fab something up. I see eBay has a few fronts and some xj rears. With my soa rear lift I kind of need to keep the mud flaps in the oem location for best coverage. I do like the look af the front ones modified for the rears though.

We have no info on what stroker kit it is. There are supporting mods as eagle mentioned but they Vary depending on what kit you are talking about. Ideally, use 4.0 rods with the correct pistons. The 4.0 rods also offer better rod angle. Several piston manufacturers have made sets that work with the 4.0 rods and stroker crank. You can find forged, cast and hypereutectic with the correct compression height. Have built a few strokers now. My favorite is the 232 crank based stroker. Stock 4.0 rods and a good set of stock compression heigh pistons and you have a 4.2. No decking of the block either.

To answer your question: no the gears are all the same. Any pre 90’ d35 will be a non c-clip design. Ive been flamed far to many times for actually supporting this little axle. The fact is, I’ve never had a problem with them. I built my current 35 with 4.56 gears from revolution, chromoly 27 spline revolution shaft (wanted to run a truetrac which is only available in a 27 spline version), Detroit truetrac and a tnt truss. It’s as stout as the d35 gets. A good bearing cap girdle design cover would be a nice addition as well. I like the clearance and light weight of the axle. The truetrac “softens” the torque transfer and makes it less likely to break a shaft. Between that and the chromoly shafts it’s a solid axle. I’ve run d44 8.8 (my least favorite axle) d60 and 8.25. D44’s are great and probably my favorite for strength vs size for our Jeeps. Don’t be too afraid of the d35 but if you are going to spend a lot of money on it consider a swap. Flame on lol. Just my $.02.

Been working on interior and exterior trim pieces. Getting all the final details completed. My cam doesn’t produce much vacuum (14inches at idle). Will be adding a leed vane style electric brake booster pump to bring the vacuum up to about 20in. Removed the back window rubber and am working on restoring it. Also scraped and sanded all the rear window trim then masked it off for painting.

Bump for my never ending quest for mud flaps

It can be boosted beyond that. From what I’ve seen hg failure occurs somewhere around 10-12p. Lbs of boost. I am running a cometic mls gasket with the easel rock aluminum head and arp bolts. My engine should be able to handle more boost but I really want to dial in my tuning to squeeze out the best performance vs just increasing boost pressure. I’ve been reading into MegaSquirt to see what all would need to be done and it seems very straightforward. I may start with the MegaSquirt first and get it tuned we’ll then add the blower

Not all 44s are created equal either. The 98+ rodeo/passport and the JK d44s use 8.9” ring gears and Dana 60 size pinions.

I have a hood scoop that would work well for a low profile Intercooler possibly or I could use a water to air cooler. Boostwerks is what I was planning to use for the manifold. I also like that it located the turbo nicely under the intake manifold for a clean install. My biggest concern at the moment is fuel and timing. Also though about just adding a 7th injector under the throttle body like boostedtech does with their supercharger setups.

what version is it? All red, black trim or chrome trim?

I’d say at 7 psi he is putting out more hp than a stock 4.0 on the top end.

Ahh gotcha. I need to re read the intro lol. Yep, match those measurements then

Makes sense. I would personally reset the preload and backlash since sometimes the factory didn’t even get it right. Once you set your backlash, set your preload then double check your backlash to make sure it is still within spec.

Do you have an afr gauge? If so, how is it running?

Nice! The bobbed bed is a nice touch also. Split second recommended the ftc1. It would be spliced into the injector outputs and distributor outputs at the harness and has an internal 2 bar map. There are 2 map tables. One for timing and one for fuel. It sounds like that sort of setup would work but I have no one here who can dunk it to really get it tuned

I believe they are the same as the door panels. It just so happens I have seen those and they are NOS to boot: https://teamcherokee.com/front-door-speaker-grille-pair-oem-nos-jeep-cherokee-comanche-1987-1996/ not 100% sure if they fit the rear also though. At some point in time I can measure them if no one else chimes in

What kind of boost are you running on the stock ecu? Any upgrades to fuel or timing?

I contacted an eBay seller who is selling turbo manifolds for the XJ along with water cooled turbos. He seems to know his stuff well. He informed me that they are working on an adaptor harness that will allow us to run a newer obd2 ecu in our old obd1 trucks. Interesting concept. I’ve attached his message for reference.

I bought my lines from them in kit form and just marked the length and position of the connection and took it to my local ac shop to compress the fittings. Used their kit twice and it has worked well both times

No problem. I did discover that on XJs at some point in time between 91-96 they used a much less resistant aluminum trim material. You can actually damage it quite easily with the torch. The oem trim on the MJs and early XJs though is much more resistant

I'm glad you enjoyed you enjoyed your nv3550. It’s not a bad tranny at all but history has shown it is about the same as the ax15. It is not an upgrade imho. And consider that your ax15 is quite an older version. The ax15 is still in production for a reason