Not many notice but my rocker sits down about 1/2” lower than the fender and bed panels. This is intentional since they are supposed to act like rock sliders. I like the side impact protection they add
I used the Spadano enterprises rockers and worked them into the body lines. They look like factory but are 1/4” steel. Only difference is that they fit all the way to the bottom of the pinch seam
I’d also recommend that you add a nice flexible exhaust hanger at the down pipe to keep the weight off the header. Those atp/summit/eBay/Amazon headers are pretty notorious for cracking at the welds. Mine blew out in about 2500 miles. Perhaps they have improved the design though???
Never seen that bumper but it looks more like a body kit (inspired by a boat I would say). The flares look like they may be a set of Napier’s but just painted to match the body.
I restored my oem bucket seats and I much prefer them to bench seats over long distances or if off-road since they have much better containment. I would still swap them for some suspension seats in a heartbeat. Had corbeau suspension seats in my YJ and have also tried out the Jettrim HC seats. Those jettrims are hands down the best seats I’ve ever tried.
Actually guys, I got really sick for a while. Still need a set but I can’t even receive them until we are out of quarantine here which is tentatively set for mid April.
This is an excellent and cost effective technique. Seen it used in many other countries to preserve the underside of vehicles. Works awesome! If you prefer a wax based product, pb blaster makes a corrosion stop that leaves a nice thick film behind that lasts a while. I am bombarded by salt spray where we live and use a car cover, wax, and spray salt-away frequently. But seriously, diesel works great.
I would not silicone them. They should not be leaking since the tubes are pressed in. Those welds simply aid in tube retention but they are not holes that go all the way through the axle tube and should never be the source of a leak. You could seal the tubes inside the pumpkin but use the “right stuff” or similar
Seen too many people installing 8.8s welding the case spreader holes thinking they are rosette weld holes 😂. I always use rosette welds when working with links and threaded inserts also in addition to welding the actual flange/joint and they hold very well.
I’ve also welded it cold in short bursts with lots of cool down in between with good results but I think heating it up as suggested is probably the better way to go.
Perhaps you didn’t count the buttons. Let’s try this: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,0,*,#, A,b,c,d???
That’s the layout of a standard dtmf phone dialer keypad. Still can’t say for sure that’s what it is but it’s a good possibility imho.