ghetdjc320

The stroker kits now available have made it easier to a degree. As mentioned above. do plenty of research and built it right. If you’ve never done an engine rebuild before then perhaps take it to a reputable, competent machine shop instead of tryin to diy. I do recommend that you have a look at jeepstrokers.com and check out the builds over there. Learn all the specs on the base 4.0 so you know exactly what you want to have done with your stroker. There is a nice stroker calculator there as well to help you get started. (Not trying time promote another site by the way, just helping the OP find more resources to make an informed decision). Also, let us know what kit you have available to you.

Any chance someone could please upload a template for the rears? If we just had something to work off of it would be easy enough to fab something up. I see eBay has a few fronts and some xj rears. With my soa rear lift I kind of need to keep the mud flaps in the oem location for best coverage. I do like the look af the front ones modified for the rears though.

We have no info on what stroker kit it is. There are supporting mods as eagle mentioned but they Vary depending on what kit you are talking about. Ideally, use 4.0 rods with the correct pistons. The 4.0 rods also offer better rod angle. Several piston manufacturers have made sets that work with the 4.0 rods and stroker crank. You can find forged, cast and hypereutectic with the correct compression height. Have built a few strokers now. My favorite is the 232 crank based stroker. Stock 4.0 rods and a good set of stock compression heigh pistons and you have a 4.2. No decking of the block either.

To answer your question: no the gears are all the same. Any pre 90’ d35 will be a non c-clip design. Ive been flamed far to many times for actually supporting this little axle. The fact is, I’ve never had a problem with them. I built my current 35 with 4.56 gears from revolution, chromoly 27 spline revolution shaft (wanted to run a truetrac which is only available in a 27 spline version), Detroit truetrac and a tnt truss. It’s as stout as the d35 gets. A good bearing cap girdle design cover would be a nice addition as well. I like the clearance and light weight of the axle. The truetrac “softens” the torque transfer and makes it less likely to break a shaft. Between that and the chromoly shafts it’s a solid axle. I’ve run d44 8.8 (my least favorite axle) d60 and 8.25. D44’s are great and probably my favorite for strength vs size for our Jeeps. Don’t be too afraid of the d35 but if you are going to spend a lot of money on it consider a swap. Flame on lol. Just my $.02.

Been working on interior and exterior trim pieces. Getting all the final details completed. My cam doesn’t produce much vacuum (14inches at idle). Will be adding a leed vane style electric brake booster pump to bring the vacuum up to about 20in. Removed the back window rubber and am working on restoring it. Also scraped and sanded all the rear window trim then masked it off for painting.

Bump for my never ending quest for mud flaps

It can be boosted beyond that. From what I’ve seen hg failure occurs somewhere around 10-12p. Lbs of boost. I am running a cometic mls gasket with the easel rock aluminum head and arp bolts. My engine should be able to handle more boost but I really want to dial in my tuning to squeeze out the best performance vs just increasing boost pressure. I’ve been reading into MegaSquirt to see what all would need to be done and it seems very straightforward. I may start with the MegaSquirt first and get it tuned we’ll then add the blower

Not all 44s are created equal either. The 98+ rodeo/passport and the JK d44s use 8.9” ring gears and Dana 60 size pinions.

I have a hood scoop that would work well for a low profile Intercooler possibly or I could use a water to air cooler. Boostwerks is what I was planning to use for the manifold. I also like that it located the turbo nicely under the intake manifold for a clean install. My biggest concern at the moment is fuel and timing. Also though about just adding a 7th injector under the throttle body like boostedtech does with their supercharger setups.

what version is it? All red, black trim or chrome trim?

I’d say at 7 psi he is putting out more hp than a stock 4.0 on the top end.

Ahh gotcha. I need to re read the intro lol. Yep, match those measurements then

Makes sense. I would personally reset the preload and backlash since sometimes the factory didn’t even get it right. Once you set your backlash, set your preload then double check your backlash to make sure it is still within spec.

Do you have an afr gauge? If so, how is it running?

Nice! The bobbed bed is a nice touch also. Split second recommended the ftc1. It would be spliced into the injector outputs and distributor outputs at the harness and has an internal 2 bar map. There are 2 map tables. One for timing and one for fuel. It sounds like that sort of setup would work but I have no one here who can dunk it to really get it tuned

I believe they are the same as the door panels. It just so happens I have seen those and they are NOS to boot: https://teamcherokee.com/front-door-speaker-grille-pair-oem-nos-jeep-cherokee-comanche-1987-1996/ not 100% sure if they fit the rear also though. At some point in time I can measure them if no one else chimes in

What kind of boost are you running on the stock ecu? Any upgrades to fuel or timing?

I contacted an eBay seller who is selling turbo manifolds for the XJ along with water cooled turbos. He seems to know his stuff well. He informed me that they are working on an adaptor harness that will allow us to run a newer obd2 ecu in our old obd1 trucks. Interesting concept. I’ve attached his message for reference.

I bought my lines from them in kit form and just marked the length and position of the connection and took it to my local ac shop to compress the fittings. Used their kit twice and it has worked well both times

No problem. I did discover that on XJs at some point in time between 91-96 they used a much less resistant aluminum trim material. You can actually damage it quite easily with the torch. The oem trim on the MJs and early XJs though is much more resistant

I'm glad you enjoyed you enjoyed your nv3550. It’s not a bad tranny at all but history has shown it is about the same as the ax15. It is not an upgrade imho. And consider that your ax15 is quite an older version. The ax15 is still in production for a reason

Hello all, Have been playing around with the idea of adding a turbo to my built 4.0. My build thread has most of the motor specs so I won’t go into detail. My MJ is a 91 and I had originally thought of going the supercharged route. However, I prefer the adjustability of the turbo and also wanted to run an intercooler. I also want to keep my ac and a turbo just has more placement options as well. I plan on running the boostwerks turbo manifold but want to get suggestions and feedback regarding fuel and timing control. I plan to keep the stock ecu and am thinking of several options: 1. Split Second FTC1 (Pricey but control timing and fuel in boost) 2. Split Second Auxilary injector (would add fuel in boost but would not control timing) 3. Running a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to manually add fuel based on boost Not sure which one of these options would be best but I’m looking for any first hand experience you may have. Looking to run a max of 10lbs of boost and I’m at sea level. Also looking for turbo size recommendations. Seen different views about going with a t3, t3/t4, 50 trim, 60 trim. Any feedback on what has worked for you? I like the idea of a water cooled turbo also (not the intercooler, the actual turbo). I am not considering an engine swap or any other options other than turbo at this point. I do have experience setting up stand alone fuel injection and can do basic tuning. Other than that there is really no Dyno tuning here on Guam so I would likely have to do a remote tuning session with splitsecond to get everything tuned correctly. Whatever input you can offer is much appreciated. Thanks

Good advice. I would also add that you should take plenty of pictures of the contact patter and every measurement you take for reference.

Going to use a turbo manifold or just put a flange on a stock manifold? Boostwerks is running a special on their manifold

Do you know what you are going to run for your turbo yet?