ghetdjc320

Can you swing by your local salvage yard and grab some? You could also possibly use a threaded rod. The bolt has a specific shoulder to it but I don’t believe it is all that critical

Saw these and I know some of you are looking for some: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Factory-OEM-Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-84-96-or-Comanche-MJ-86-92-Chrome-Door-Handle-Pair/184201601096?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D0f276226a6c74aaead59a7c73a6d20e2%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D184201601096%26itm%3D184201601096%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Aab9de260-65ad-11ea-b95c-74dbd1803ba4|parentrq%3Ad756390b1700aa12f7a9f21fffdd8bd5|iid%3A1

I had mine BullitLined. It holds up well but any spray in bedliner will still need good surface prep to stick well and I think they slumped out on mine. Rhino liner is not UV stable so if you get a lot of sun it will start to fade. Heard good things about raptor liner

Here is the parts listing from Spicer. Here is the website for reference: http://www.canadawideparts.com/downloads/catalogs/danaspicer_1978-1998models_X510-9.pdf

I’ve swapped in a couple of waggy axles as well and there are a few gains to be had and some drawbacks. Actual spindles with locking hubs are nice to have and the larger brakes are a bonus. Wheel adapters are used all the time to adapt jk/jl wheels onto YJ/xj/mj/tj/ZJ. It wouldn’t be my first choice but I have run them in the past with good success. The old Reid racing knuckles for the d44/d30 were a nice setup also and would let you run bigger lug patterns. Obviously this topic has gotten out of hand and the OP just wanted to know what options were available in a YJ. I’d say that it is possible he may find one with a original d44 but most will have a d35. I edited my post to exclude “Canada” to avoid further contention. And I apologize for any offense I may have caused.

YJs were built in Canada for a few years then (I believe in 92) they went back to US made. Whatever you want to call them (domestic/import depending on where you live), the fact remains that some YJs that were not in the US had d44s not sure of which ones. I can only speak to the ones I have seen. As for a rodeo/passport d44, use wheel adapters/re-drill to 5 on 4.5/use 6 on 5.5 up front/get a waggy front end/ there are plenty of ways to do this.

If no one else has some I found these for you on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Cherokee-XJ-4-0-Engine-Alternator-Bracket-w-most-bolts-1997/383459730464?hash=item5947fb2420:g:PAkAAOSwhQheatNx

You could probably use a signal calibrator like one from Dakota digital to use whatever signal the axle can give you.

As for the 8.8 swap vs a rodeo/passport d44. It would be good to keep in mind that most all of them (Rodeo/passport d44s) came with 4.10 - 4.88 ratios. If you find the right axle, it will be the same width, have disk brakes, could even have the correct gear ratio along with a limited slip. Perches, shock tabs and wheel adapters are much easier than regearing. Plus, the axle itself will likely be much cheaper. It’s a lot leaner of an axle too while still being plenty strong. I wheeled the snot out of one on my built YJ with a stroker all through Moab and trails in Arkansas and Texas. Never once did the rodeo d44 let me down. And I had better ground clearance and less unsprung weight than any of the 8.8 anchors sitting under other rigs running the same 35’s. Yes, I’m venting a bit... been couped up in the house for almost a week fighting of this stupid sickness. My disdain for the 8.8 is coming out lol

Exactly. It also says nothing about your compression ratio which is a key components. You need to plan and know every build spec of those engine internals as well as have all the machine work decided to move forward. Cam specs, rocker arm specs, head gasket specs, machine work specs... everything

My seats have been reupholstered so it must have been changed when they were redone.

As I said, they weren’t too common. I ran across a couple in Mexico that had them. Otherwise it’s just been pictures of YJs or previous owner experience. I don’t have it in front of me now but the parts list for early YJs list it as an option for export models.

Looking for a pair of cab vents. Just need the actual pop in insert. Mine are beyond repair. Let me know what you have

What is the rpm while idling?

Anyone interested in any other variants? Extended idle for police package XJs is an option

YJ in the US only came with the d35 which was a non c-clip axle with 10” drums from 87-89 then went to the regular c-clip style in 90 as far as I know. Export versions had d44 options as well it seems, but they weren’t too common. If you want a nice d44 for a swap I’d grab a rodeo/passport axle. I’ve done several write ups on them and can help you out if you want to go that route.

Deffinitely good info. You can also see his work on angelfire with cam specs for every cam made. Jeepstrokers.com is also very helpful.

Ok, I was probably the first to ever try the sniper route and bought the original Holley sniper in 2017 for my stroker YJ. Used a Clifford 4 barrel intake. Suffice it to say, there is such a thing as too much carb/tbi. The sniper has large injectors and can keep up with fairly high cfm requirements. On a stroker it was cutting the injector pulse down far to low to get the right afr. Since then, they have released a Jeep specific tbi/efi unit along with a nice distributor (for a 258 but fits the 242/4.0 also) for timing control. The Jeep specific unit is very likely to be too tall to fit under the hood of an xj/mj since it was made as a replacement to the old carter/bbd carbs for the 4.2s. At the moment, don’t get bogged down in what injectors, throttle body etc. you will need. You need to build your engine internals first and then figure what the engine will require. It’s true, you could figure that all out now but if you want actual practical advise please tell us what kind of “stroker” you are planning to build. You have referenced a “kit” several times and we keep asking for the specs but haven’t received any. A stroker can be anything from a 4.2 mini stroker with a 232 crank to a 5.0 monster with offset ground custom crank. They will all have different requirements. Once you post up what you plan to build we can provide valuable input. Until then it’s all just speculation

I never had plans to have them made in China but was curious how much it would cost to have them made there. That being said, I want them to be a quality reproduction no matter where they are made (anyone who doesn’t take pride in their work produces crap products regardless of where they live imo). Since @carolinajeepman has already created a prototype I will defer to his project and keep working on the rest of these items to bring them into production.

It’s a small Allen head set screw. You may have to use a small screw extractor is the Allen socket is rounded off

I run the 99+ intake and it works well. Don’t have any dyno numbers yet but hope to get some soon. My TB was bored to 63mm since that is what the stock opening on the intake is. I got mine from Strokedjeep.com

Here is the long awaited rarest of rare switch options:

I’ve though about something like that but there is a compound curve that needs to be matched to look right. That’s an option though

I have a 96 valve cover on mine and the rear valve goes to vacuum. Front valve goes to air box

Well I’m sick and stuck at home so I have plenty of time to search