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Just need the knuckles if it’s pre 1990 xj my or YJ Dana 30. Two knuckles can go in a flat rate box actually so shipping is pretty reasonable if you don’t mind taking them off.

No worries. I’ve thrown away some before too.

Let me know

Wondering if anyone has a set of 84-89 Dana 30 knuckles they don’t need. Let me know

Yep, as was mentioned, Dana 44’s are super plentiful and have been arround for decades. It’s just the MJ & XJ versions that are a bit hard to come by. As @Pete M says though, the 8.25 is a great swap candidate. It’s also a bit easier to regear.

Could very well be your slave cylinder. The swap is very straightforward though. Good opportunity to replace clutch while your in there. If it’s just the linkage, you’ll be able to see it from under the dash though there may be plenty of wiring and the steering column in the way

I’ve never really liked my center console and have also been wanting to do some clean and discreet audio work. I’m trying to keep the truck “period correct” while adding improved functionality. Been gathering some inspirational photos on what I’d like to do with the center console. I’d like to meld the oem console and something like this:

So the clutch pedal connects to the rod for the clutch master cylinder. Then there is a hydraulic line that goes to the slave cylinder. Apologies if youR already familiar with the setup. Can you confirm that the clutch linkage is still good and it is moving the input shaft on the clutch master cylinder?

Unless you want to keep everything “period specific” to the truck I’d just grab an 8.25 as suggested.

Original owner MJ, that’s awesome! Does the clutch still engage? There isn’t actually a spring in the bell housing. The pressure plate is the “spring”.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-AMC-JEEP-DEALER-ACCESSORY-AC-AIRCONDITIONING-KIT-OEM-CHEROKEE-COMANCHE/383479464806?hash=item5949284366:g:wokAAOSwemdefLga

Yep it will work but the transfer case will be clocked higher than stock. Youll have to see if it interferes with your floor in that area. Check and see if the bell housing is external slave or not. If not, you can brag a bell housing from a 94 and up

Yep, lots of brake options with the pre 90 knuckles

I’ve got a full set of nos splash guards now with brackets. Replied and arranged shipping with @rylee144 for the kick panel. Also replied to @schardein regarding dash clock.

I daily drove and even did some mild rock crawling with my ba10/5 for several years with no issues. I put a TON of miles on that tranny with zero issues. Oddly enough, I decided to upgrade to an ax15 and the first thing it started doing was popping out of second. Obviously it was a bad tranny and I replaced it with another.

Another relatively simple option is the heavy duty leaf spring pack from General Spring which will net you about 2” or possibly a bit more depending on what condition your old springs are in. Throw in some front 2.5” lift springs, extended shocks and perhaps lower control arms from a Jeep Grand Cherokee (WJ). Will fit 31” tires decently shouldn’t need almost any supporting mods. If I were building an my over again I would have gone with 2.5” or so lift. Lots of different options. I’m sure other will chime in shorty

@HellCreek is still producing the rear leaf springs for I believe a 4” lift. Custom manufacturers like Alcan are also options. For the front, almost any lift that works for an XJ will work for an MJ. Most on here will say to steer clear of Rustys Offroad. Same goes for Rough Country.

Ahh ok, that kit will only work for the front of your MJ but the rear leaf springs are not compatible. The Comanche has rear leaf springs that go under the axle but the Cherokee uses them over the axle. You can add about 5+/-“ when you move the mounts from beneath the axle to over the axle on an MJ. This is known as a soa or spring over axle swap. Apologies if you already know this, just trying to be thorough. Most of us try to determine what size tire we would like to run before deciding how much lift to install. It helps you plan your supporting modifications that way like: proper gearing, driveshaft angles, steering modifications, wheel well openings/flares etc. A nice 3-4” lift with the appropriate flares could accommodate a 33” tire without too many supporting modifications. Normally going 35+” tires will require quite a bit more fab work and some skills with the metal glue gun. perhaps consider something in the 2.5-4” lift range. We can help you put together the components you will need so you will have your bases covered.

Time for the saga to continue. Was able to find all nos front mud flaps thanks to @fiatslug87. Will be trimming a set of fronts to be a set of rear and will use the scarfab brackets he just sent me. Also picked up a 240A Singer alternator. I’m sick of not having enough amps at idle to drive everything.

Just incase anyone sees this in the future, I rebuilt my ring and pionion and installed new bearings and set the proper preload, backlash etc. Everything turned out great, but the noise was still there... Turns out it was actually the front transfer case output shaft rear needle bearing. The noise was very hard to pinpoint and it’s that ridiculously hard to get out bearing. Part number J2416 from Timken.

Just picked up a second set from him for the rears. I’ll trim them with the templates I posted for the rears. Ordered the brackets already so they will look completely stock. Thanks for the tips!

Completely agree width all the comments above. Just also steer clear of the ax5 tranny that was used on 4cyls for a while. Made by Aisin also but not nearly as stout as the ax15. The aw4 in mine has been a great tranny with pretty much zero issues when properly maintained and cooled. I will say though, it is a power hungry trans as many auto’s are. I’d love to swap to an ax15 at some point in time

Do you have a link? Is it made for an MJ or an XJ? Any 6” lift requires a lot of supporting mods

No kidding, so much easier to use than drill bits and they are self centering

For future reference, you can use a reamer to drill out the taper in the knuckles and pitman arm