ghetdjc320

You get what you pay for

It’s nice to have adjustable though. That way you can really dial in your alignment

😂 if it’s 10k for a new car I’d say no

There is no center hood “channel” or bracing on the xj hood that run the entire length of the hood. It’s more of a V pattern brace so there is plenty of room to add a vent/scoop without cutting any bracing. I have a set of the hyline off-road vents new in box somewhere at my folks place stateside. If your interested I can see about digging them up

Measure the true tire diameter and width of what you have an what your getting. Then just use the radius to determine how much/little clearance you’ll have. The control arm clearance is another story though

Again, without knowing what they are planning to do I don’t see how anyone can tell you if it’s a good deal or not. It’s like asking “there is a car for 10k, should I get it?” The devils in the details. I’ve got a little over 6k in my non stroker 4.0. That’s just parts and machining work. I did the tear down, rebuild and reinstall myself. Some people won’t quite understand that but if I show you my engine build sheet you’ll see where the money is. And yes, some will swap in a crate engine or an LS from the junk yard for the same or less money but there is a lot of work involved that often times gets overlooked. A CLEAN engine swap is pricey.

http://jeepm62superchargerkit.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1 Wilwood also makes a bolt in kit. The design of the pre 90 knuckles used large caliper mounting points and no brake pad “wings” like the newer ones do. This allows for a lite of possibilities for big brakes.

I wrote a thread about the Isuzu/passport d44 axle swap and have a ton of info on them if you need any. I’d not recommend an 8.8 unless you already own it

You could spend 3k-30k on your engine bay. Without knowing exactly what they will do and what parts they will use.

Yes I’ll stand by that all day. Not saying the 8.8 doesn’t work at all but there are better options out there. The 8.8 Is also heavy and unsprung weight should play a factor in any build. The bottom of a 8.8 is flat and wide vs the single narrow lowest point of a d44. It will make a difference which d44 your are comparing since there are some variations. But xj/mj 44 is lighter and much better clearance than an 8.8. The 8.8 is just chunky. If you going to build a new axle, built a 44 or a 60 if need that. 8.25 is a good choice though for what the OP described and is a cheap junk yard swap. Tire width, rolling weight and driving style play a big role in how long an axle lasts.

If all you want to do is run 33’s i’d just run the d35 if you have the right gearing. A liberty 8.25 as Pete suggests is an easy swap though and probably cheaper than a 44 in most places. An 8.8 in my books is about as worthless as the exploders they come from. I’ve had 4 of them over the years and they are all boat anchors. Think of it this way, a 31” tire on a Dana 35 has about as much clearance under the pumpkin as an 8.8 with 35’s. On 33’s it actually has more! The 8.8 is a chunky axle but does not hold up well to 37’s and low gearing without breaking things. The axle tubes are thinner than a d35/44 and have been known to spin. The c clip axle design is not really the flaw to me. If you break a non c-clip axle there is also carnage left behind and you won’t get far. Full floating axles are the obvious exception.

@Minuit don’t feel too bad. I threw out my oem rear bumper and brackets. Didn’t have a single dent or drop of rust. Even still had the license plate lamps.

The console insert is a separate piece also so if you could find one you could just install it in a good xj console.

Agreed, that keeps it simple

When I had my windshield installed i had them install the newer style 97+ gasket instead of that metal trim. Looks really good imho

96-97 rodeo/passport works great too. Same bolt pattern issues as the wagoneer axle though

Here’s what I did. 69 Mach 1 hood scoop. Fully functional and works great

Just grab the fitting you need from a ZJ with a V8 (don’t think the V8 makes a difference). It will fit your pre 90 Dana 30 or the 90+ axles. The biggest difference on those pre 90 Dana 30’s is the knuckles. They had a different style caliper mount (which is a great platform for upgrading brakes). Just run to your local auto store or jump on rock auto and order the drag link, tie rod ends and adjusters from 98 Grand Cherokee. I suggest moog or precision products. You’ll have all new steering that is quite a bit beefier than the stock setup. Now that I think about it, your existing setup may be an inverted t style vs the newer y link.

If anyone is interested, please PM me. I don’t mind shipping anywhere for the right buyer. I’ll post in the for sale section shortly

Aside from the machining of the block and the spray job I did it myself. The paint is pretty awesome and the pictures just don’t do it justice. That paint was like 90% pearl base then they added some deep colors at the end along with some metallic. I haven’t listed it for sale stateside and honestly I’m not sure how??? If anyone has any ideas please let me know. I don’t have any new projects planned at the moment and probably won’t be working on anything for a few years but MJs are my go to still. Would love to pickup an 88 mj chief and restore to oem or pickup another 91-92 ho MJ and build another one. Someday perhaps

Thank you all so much! This is quite an honor!

I run the Artec bracketry kit for the d30 and the sway bar links are much higher for crossover steering. Was able to run RE disconnects for a 2” lift on my 5.5” lift.

Yep, will be there indefinitely. The biggest problem is access to parts there and the constant salt water and super high humidity environment. I’ve never seen vehicles reclaimed by nature so quickly. In a few months my MJ would be unrecognizable and they really don’t have any vehicle storage locations or garages available. Even here on Guam I keep it covered in a high quality custom fit cover and wash and wax it often. Also spray the underside with corrosion inhibitor every few weeks. Keeps everything in good shape.

Like @fiatslug87 said, it’s $2400 to ship back to Long Beach. If anyone stateside or anywhere else in the world is genuinely interested, shoot me a PM and we can discuss. I had it shipped from Texas to CA for about $500 then it went on the boat for $2800 to get it out here. Takes about 2.5 weeks to ship. Actual sailing time is like 12 days I believe and it transits through Honolulu.

Thanks! 2020 Aston Martin cinnabar Orange. Tons of pearl in it so it glows in the sun