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FYI this problem was due to a burnt out fuse for the cooling fans.

Almost any auto parts store carries them in the hardware section. Auto glass shops also normally carry a huge selection of those clips since they deal with trim panels every day.

I’m running a Singer 230A. It’s a recent install though so it’s possible this was damaged before the alternator upgrade

Turns out it was the fuse for the cooling fans. I think the fan controller is not cutout for the current draw of the fans. Going to upgrade to a bigger controller.

As I write this, I’m sitting on the side of the road waiting for my MJ to cool down. It’s always 85 or so every day here on island. For those of you who know my MJ, the built engine is super clean and has no contaminants in the coolant. I run a flowkooler water pump with billet impeller, Hesco ported thermostat housing, aluminum dual core radiator and an oem 195 thermostat. The truck will run cool for a good long while after starting. Zero issues for probably 30 mins. After some stop and go traffic it starts. Long uphill pulls will also set it off. Once it climbs to 210 it will just keep on going. There are no coolant leaks that I can tell and I’ve done my absolute best to burp the air out of the system. Radiator cap is good and is a 13 or 16lb unit (can’t remember off the top of my head). Any ideas? I have no compression in the coolant or coolant in the oil. I know the oem design is very lacking but this is a bit ridiculous. By the way, running triple 10 fans with controller and optima yellow top battery with 230a Singer alternator so power is not an issue.

Just lookup an injector calculator. Remember that a 24lb Injector is rated at a higher fuel pressure that our systems are set for so you really aren’t getting 24lbs from it. I believe our actual fpr are set for 38lbs with no vacuum???

They’re not, I checked. Haven’t seen that MJ around for a while and it was rusting to death.

the long and short speed gears are actually both compatible with the tail housing. Only the sending units are different. Your sye tailshaft probably has a plastic gear held in with a couple of snap rings. Try removing that tail cone and inspecting that plastic gear up close. Also make sure the gear has both rings in place and can’t move around

No need to go that far into the system unless you want to replace the evaporator core. Just check for vacuum going through the firewall where the ac lines connect to the expansion valve. That vacuum line feeds the vacuum for the hvac switch panel.

It should be plenty smooth. Are you sure you have it aligned properly? It’s always a bit tricky since it does not align with the hold down bolt but rather with a ridge near the bottom of the tail cone. If you 100% sure there isn’t anything wrong with the alignment then take a picture of your tail shaft speedo splines and look for damage. Also check your speedo gear sending unit for runout when turning the speedo gear

Have you checked rock auto? They used to carry all the splash guards as recently as a year ago. They may still have them.

I would think tar paper would be pretty similar. It’s for roofing but it’s thick stuff about 1/8” - 3/16” or so

It’s in the help! Product aisle. It’s a standard Chrysler fuel injection quick connect. It will have a barb for a 5/16 or 3/8 hose so you’ll have to grab some fuel injection rates hose from the store also. There are also adapters for the quick connect to an fittings if you’d like to go that route but those are pricey. Dorman 800-120 and 800-121 are the two part numbers for the supply and return line fittings for the fuel rail. And both have hose barbs

There’s one other MJ here on Guam that is badly rusted. I have yet to meet the owner but from what I’ve heard, it was a military order vehicle. At the time, there was no Jeep dealership on island and it wasn’t a personal import

Nice find 👍

Does anyone not recall that MJs were also built as race trucks? The Eliminator was a sporty “track” version until they added the 4x4 option. If your truck feels unstable at 85 then you need some suspension/steering work. And before you say “where can you go 85?”, our speed limit was 85 on our toll roads in TX. Most did 90-100.

When I had my MJ stateside I don’t think it would have had a problem hitting 120. At 95 it had plenty left to give. If you have the right gearing and a good strong engine it shouldn’t be a problem unless your running massive tires and lift.

It’s not terribly hard to remove the rubber molding. Once it’s off you will need to cut out the window with a wire. Remove the inner trim around the window and use a small tool such as a precision screwdriver to poke a hole in the urethane seal. After it’s all cut out, clean up the rear glass deal and put the seal back on before reinstalling. 3m window urethane is what you use to reinstall. Not a hard job just tedious

Just use the vss and swap your sending unit. Wouldn’t coat much at all for a junk yard

I always thought it would be fun to build a 2wd 4.0 track MJ. If I am ever able to build one again I think that’s what I’d build next.

Yep but the gauge still swaps easily enough . Would be a nice addition to a set of HO gauges

Used some leftover paint from my truck to do the hood and accent pieces on the ski. Will be a cool match

Just though I’d share my jet ski build here on island. It’s been taking my time away from the MJ at the moment but is turning out nicely: http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=286934 hope to have it finished by the end of the month

This video let’s you hear the sound of about every mainstream I6. V8s have an offbeat unbalanced sound which also has its charms. However straight 6s have a unique balanced sound I have come to appreciate. A tuned I6 is a sweet engine.