ghetdjc320

I strongly recommend against that kit! I had it. Booster lasted about 18months before it started leaking. The master cylinder bore is far too big also and you’ll have trouble stopping with stock brakes. Here is some ideas to get you started:

15/16 or 1” bore will be your best stopping power on stock brakes. Increase bore and you increase volume but may decrease pressure without selecting the correct caliper piston sizes, unless you increase boost assist.

I’m all for the bacon and pork chops if it didn’t cost me the front end of my MJ

Do they make pig whistles too? We don’t have deer here but lots of wild pigs and those things are stout

Seriously, if your happy with halogens or LEDs then you haven’t tried a good set of projectors. Nothing compares

HID Morimoto Projectors. Nothing compares to a good projector.

Exactly. That’s why the exploder axles look very narrow on an MJ without some good size spacers.

Look for any rodeo/passport rear axle from 93+. 95+ will all have Dana 44’s. 96-97 2wd axles have 4.56 gears and are practically a bolt in for YJs aside from bolt pattern. 98+ are essentially JK axles. All years use thick cut gear sets and will have nice ratios ranging from 4.10-4.88. Most 4wd have disks and most 2wd have drums. Great little axles and easy to sell since no one seems to get that they’re all D44’s.

Also, you don’t need to look for a 97+ d30. Any ABS XJ pre 2000 will have a HP D30 with the larger u joints. My 91 front axle is a non disconnect and has the larger u joints. The JK d30 isn’t a big upgrade over the XJ 30. You can grab a nice rear d44 from a rodeo/passport and most come stick with 4.88’s. Cheap too. We have a post here about the different options

Not a bad price if everything is included and is in good shape. Also the JK housings are not aluminum so let’s quash that rumor... Stock JK axles are basically the same as stock rodeo/passport rear axles from 98 and up but with a different lug pattern.

Neat little article I found a few months back: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hagerty.com/media/car-profiles/will-jeep-comanche-follow-xj/amp/ Whats more interesting to me is how many of each trim level is left. Obviously overall economy will play a factor. One thing for sure is that interest is high. Someone needs to do a Barrett-Jackson build. I bet it would do pretty good.

I’m just referring to your typical Detroit, Grizzly and lunchbox style lockers. In a corner, the outside wheel can spin faster if needed but it never allows that wheel to spin slower than the inside wheel. These are tried and tested lockers.

In an auto locker it still allows a wheel to “differentiate” though and spin faster unlike most auto lockers which are typically spools when locked.

That’s the case with most selectable lockers but not auto lockers.

Most shops go off of their software or books that give hours for a job. My guess is this one is going to be 6 or so hours by the book. It really only take about an hour if you know what your doing. Make sure they put in a decent seal like a Timken or National.

Thanks! The build was already “finished” some time ago but I’m just keeping up with the never ending saga lol

A few progress pics. Brakes are finished now. Took a few good bleeds and works great. Readjusted the rear drums also. Am still thinking about switching to rear disks but I use my parking brake a lot on the boat ramp and ones in the disk brakes just don’t hold quite as well. I’ll look into this further at some point. The last pic is my latest endeavor to fully purge any air from the cooling system. I used a Mishimoto temp probe adapter and installed it in the upper radiator hose. I open the plug to bleed out air and then installed a 1/8npt stainless plug after. Works great for getting rid of the air trapped in that pesky hose. On a side note, for those who want something quite unique in their MJ/XJ I found a full sequential shift system with paddle shifter that is a bolt on for our jeeps and runs the aw4. It is a thing of beauty but cost a small fortune (approx 2k). The steering adapter fits 5 bolt Grant or 6 bolt Sparco/Momo wheels Also moved my IAT sensor to the factory air box. This will help to slightly richer up the mixture. Noticed that it immediately improved hot starting and idle. Perhaps a slight power gain also but too hard to tell.

I had one of those sub consoles in my TJ and it was very nice. Not much bass from it but definitely rounded out the music and the console itself was great. Was looking into some sort of console setup like this

I have a good working block laying on the shelf if you need one

To say that the truetrac’s only shortfall is when a tire is in the air may be an understatement. The truetrac doesn’t know when a tire is in the air, it’s just sensing resistance. I’ve had it sit there spinning one wheel in mud or one wheel spinning on some slick rock. What I like about the truetrac is that it helps track more predictably on-road. It can help a squirly truck have a bit more traction and it’s cheap. It provides minimal more traction though off-road. It has no air or electric lines to deal with and it is easy to turn with. So there are plenty of pros but, it’s a full case swap and will require setting your backlash and preload properly. You should be able to leave your pinion depth alone unless it was out of spec to begin with. By the time you go to all that work you may regret not going with a selectable for a few hundred more. Basically you already did 90% of the work but only gained maybe 25% more traction.

The mach1 scoop takes a lot of work to get formed into the hood since it’s so long and the hood is slightly curved. Personally I recommend that you use a good seam sealer when bolting it on and stay away from cutting any hood bracing which is easy enough. Just don’t use any hard setting adhesive or filler because the hood flexes too much and will crack it.

Whatever axle you decide to use, there is not a bolt in swap. The most time consuming part of the swap is the link brackets geometry and fabrication. There are one or two crossmembers for link mounting that are commercially available for the MJ that would work. A truss on whatever axle you use will give you a platform for upper links and you’ll have to just weld on some lower link brackets. You’ll want to go with a triangulated setup to locate the axle without the use of a track bar. You could then mount coils, coil overs or air shocks with the appropriate upper and lower mounts. To do it right figure a couple grand in parts minimum and a good welder with all the rest of your typical metal working tools. And a good dose of skill and patience to top it off. Ultimately though the gain may not be worth it for you. What are you hoping to achieve with your MJ by adding a coil system for the rear?

Starting with the brake booster. The 01 xj booster is a bolt on but will require the 1/4 spacer that’s already behind our stock boosters. 01 XJ booster specs: Dual 8” diaphragms 3 3/8 square mounting pattern (same as stock) Pedal rod is the standard HO 1991+ setup but could be modified for the earlier versions with the brake light switch on the end of the rod. Master cylinder mounting studs easily accommodate the Wilwood prop valve bracket. For the 01 XJ master cylinder, the rear outlet is for the front brakes and the front outlet is for the rear brakes. M10 bubble flare for the rear fitting and M12 bubble for the front. I used adapters to adapt everything to 3/8-24 inverted flare. This MC is a 1” bore. Stock MJ was mostly 15/16. I would assume that the extra booster from the dual diaphragm setup allowed for a slightly larger MC bore to increase volume while still keeping the pressure high. Anything larger than a 1” MC will lower the line pressure and would cause the brakes to not be as effective if its all stock.