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@MiNi Beast They’re on their way . @Raven what is this going on? Those injectors you posted are basically stock injectors but with a 4 hole setup for better atomization for a 91-95 HO setup where you have 39psi at the rail at wot.

Oh no!!! I can’t believe I missed that! He was a super helpful guy.

Yes, pull all of your indicator and parking light bulbs and clean out all the sockets. Check the bulbs very carefully and replace if in any doubt. Use dialectic grease when installing also. I had a tail light bulb go out and cause the blinker to stay lit every time the lights where on. The filament in the bulb was shorting from the parking light to the turn/brake signal side.

Have you checked your bulbs and sockets? Seriously, try it...

Never seen those as a factory option but I’m not the guru when it comes to those. Tagging @HOrnbrod & @Pete M who would probably know. Looks aftermarket to me. I would be ticked that they made hold in the body to install those.

The old Griffin Jeep Speed radiator was a 3” core. The only thing similar nowadays that I’ve come across is the Novak. The Jeep speed crowd would probably have more info on options.

AX15 or NV3550 would both be fine. The external slave bellhousing started in 94. Personally I’d just spring for a new ax15. Went through several uses and rebuilds before I got a good one. Keep in mind too that the XJ/MJ ax15 clocks the transfer case down slightly for better clearance although you can make the YJ/TJ version work too.

Nice find!

If you haven’t tried this already, use some speed bleeders and pump at least a few oz of fluid through each wheel cylinder/caliper. The oem bleeding process is a pain but it’s the only effective way to get the stock system bled.

AX15, NV3550 and NSG370 all bolt up easily but as jdog mentioned, let us know the use and application.

Check each one of you indicator lights and sockets. 90% of the time that’s where the problem is

Even the Mopar Middle East radiator was only a 2 core 1.5” thick (2x3/4” cores). The Novak is 3” core with no tranny cooler provision. I’m just not sure you could get the condenser in place. Interesting info on the Evans. So basically if you runs Evans coolant you need more radiator capacity it sounds like.

Any good welding shop should be able to retube. Currie also does it fit a good price. You can do it yourself if you are a good welder and have some essential tools. Less complex than setting up gears on most axles but more labor intensive

You can either retube it or run radius arms

Driving style, transmission, lockers etc. All determine how long something will last. I saw some sort of hybrid crawler one day running 37’s on a d35 and had run that way for years. I would never try that but some do.

I like where your going with this. If you can add an sbec connector that would be awesome for us obd1 crowd. For some reason it seems like Renix gets all the new products anymore. Was about to socket my sbec ecu and reprogram the eprom to tune my built 4.0. If you can make this setup plug and play that would be great.

I always start with steering and brakes.

Yeah Russ’ work is amazing. He really knows these engines and builds them incredibly well. Also has very good pricing for the work and products involved. So many of the products on Hesco are just off the shelf components from your local auto parts store but at huge markups. I recall hearing very good things about Bennie Hesco’s engines back in the day but I don’t really feel like they have the same quality anymore. I would take Russ’ builds any day over any of the competitors.

Here is the latest: Rreplaced rotor cap and plug wires with DUI livewires. Then upgraded to Ford Motorsport 24lb injectotors. These are 6 hole ev6 style injectors and are rated 24lbs at 39psi (stock fuel rail pressure at WOT). Next step is intake and tuning. Going to have Chris at christuned socket the obd1 ecu and reprogram the EPROM. Will install a data logger first and get some baseline readings.

Is that Russ Pottenger’s shop? If so, I can vouch for his builds. Nothing less than phenomenal work and customer support. I don’t recommend 505 performance or Hesco due to poor customer support from both. Clifford and Hesco were apparently both awesome companies back in the days of the original owners.

Yep, they warm up when driving lol. That would actually be pretty cool. Not fun to unlock frozen hubs

Something like that. I believe it’s actually about the same width as stock. +/- 61” wms-wms. They use D152 brake calipers and can easily run Warn hubs.

I'm also in the middle of the pacific so I understand the dilema. ATK was building Mopar stroker engines so they are decent. Personally I would build it myself. Built several of them and just tel your machine shop to do the boring and decking/milling as needed. You can get pretty much everything else from summit. If you keep the quench tight you can really run lower octane than you would imagine. There are plenty of strokers running on 87

It can still handle 37’s with a good set of shafts plus the bolt pattern is perfect for the rodeo/passport Hd44 rear

I ran a waggy D44 front with a rodeo 44 rear and that was an awesome combo. That was on a built YJ with stroker. Those old school heavy d44’s are awesome axles. The HP of course is better but don’t discount the LP. It was much stronger than I expected. Just think about the size vehicle it came from. I’d say it’s a true 1/2 ton axle.