ghetdjc320

Thanks but if you read the other posts you’ll see this engine has no rust internally (it’s been checked, flushed, checked, flushed x10). It’s not the original engine. 96 block, Bored, camed, aluminum head, roller rockers, hylift Johnson lifters, hypereutectic pistons, cometic head gasket, .038 quench, shaved block, flowkooler water pump, new crank, king main and rod bearings, arp main, rod and head bolts etc etc. My main question is regarding the pic of the plugs above now to know if it looks lean (it does to me but would like some more feedback). I think I’ll have to post the plugs in a separate thread for replies.

I have one from my 91. The pump leaks but the bottle is good.

Let me get your feedback on these plugs I just pulled. Cylinders are laid out 1-6 left to right. I feel a May be running a bit on the lean side. I do know my fuel economy is quite good. Uploaded in full resolution so you can zoom in

So, to get get back on topic. What’s the best radiator/fan setup made for XJ/MJs

Yeah, the problem is limited availability and shipping due to where I live. I would like to give it a try though. Have you tried it?

No I don’t. Not a bad idea but would be a supplement once I get the coolant temps down.

I believe he’s referring to racing type coolant which is pure glycol. It’s supposed to be some really good stuff. I’ll see if our one racing outfitter has any otherwise I may be able to order some and send via ocean freight

No, but we don’t have access to any here anyways. The radiator/fan combo simply can’t keep up with the engine when under load

I’m guessing most of you haven’t seen my build thread. Suffice it to say, no expense was spared on the engine build. Its got about 15k on the clock since the build. I’ll set my temp sensors on the radiator inlet and outlet and see exactly how it’s working. It for sure the radiator though. I’ve had oem, csf and now am running a 2 row all aluminum unit. Flowkooler water pump, genuine Mopar thermostat, Edelbrock head which does heat up the coolant a bit more. The engine is bored, high compression, camed ect. 24lb injectors and fuel pressure is spot on. Air temp sensor relocated to air box to richen things up also. I’ve been toying with the idea of a stand alone efi setup though. Richening it up a bit would cool it down for sure but it’s not running lean now.

I don’t there there is any cooling configuration, system or trick I haven’t tried up till now. It’s pretty clear currently that the radiator/fan setup just can’t keep up. Never had much issue with the heat at all in Texas but this tropical heat here is really hard to work with. It’s like the whole Jeep just heat soaks even when it’s parked

Considering the Novak radiator. (2) 1.5” cores and it’s a full length core with no trans cooler (I run a separate moroso setup).

Who makes the hands down best radiator out there? I’ve tried the stock replacements, csf, dual and triple core aluminums. I am sick of a radiator and cooling fans that can’t keep up with anything. These ff dynamics triple 10 fans are definitely not up to the task either. And I have the shrouds and 60 amps direct from a yellow top battery with a singer 240a alternator. I’m ready to invest into the last radiator/fan setup I will ever have to buy.

Really wish we knew what knuckle alternatives exist for changing wheel bolt patterns. I’d like to find 6x5.5

I see what your referring to. That’s a spindle. Stub shaft is a different part.

The regular moog problem saver ball joints should take care of that issue. Or adjustable control arms. The interesting thing with the Reid knuckles is if they had the standard old d44 spindle mounts so we could swap to different bolt patterns easily. The stock brakes on a WJ are slightly better than the JK in both piston surface are and pad swept surface. I wish Reid still made the d30/44 TJ knuckles. It was a perfect way to swap in locking hubs, 6x5.5 wheel pattern, d154 calipers and any steering you want. Perfect complement for a rodeo/passport rear. I'm really trying to find out what knuckles would bolt on to a xj D30 and offer different caliper mounting/unit bearing options.

The e brake cable is the TJ style. Looks like you have a good overview of what’s needed now. Let us know how it goes! Grab that adjustable Wilwood prop valve to if possible. Your 88 knuckles have a ball joint preload insert on the bottom of the knuckle. There should be no need to mess with it but if it is damaged or you decide to replace it (normally a new one come with the lower ball joint set for your 88), you will need the appropriate spaner wrench and set it to a depth of .206

There is no stub shaft on a 2WD. Not sure what you may be referring to. The stub shaft is the short end of the axle shaft that runs from the u joint to the unit bearing splines.

The schematic shows where it goes. It is a centric ring for the axle to rotor flange

Why would a 2wd need stub shafts?

The D35 kit comes with dual piston D154 calipers. Some member on this forum swapped to 4 piston rears. Can’t remember who it was. If doing 4 piston rears then I’d do 6 piston fronts. Or just leave as is and run the 2 piston rears and 4 piston fronts

Swapping the ball joint is required when doing the WJ knuckle swap also

The D44 JK uses 32 but the D30 uses 30 spline outers. Since the WJ knuckles swap to the JK and XJ axles then the JK knuckles should swap to XJ/MJ/YJ/TJ as well.

If you look at the Wilwood flange offset reference chart posted in your other thread it will show you how to measure that and other specs.

But the question is using JK unit bearings instead of WJ ones. The stub shaft would need to be changed but otherwise it seems like a possible bolt in

If it’s the distribution block your looking for I just happen to have an extra I posted in the classifieds section. It’s from my 91 MJ and had no leaks. I know the switch was functional too. I upgraded to a Wilwood adjustable unit