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I installed mine when going soa on my shirt bed. JB conversions is the hands down best sye I’ve ever used. Great price too. Tom woods or an adams drive shaft and you’ll be good to go. Make sure to rotate your pinion angle when going sye. You’ll want it to point about 1-2* below the tcase output to compensate for torque.

Hey all, came across this axle the other day and am trying to ID it. It was in a JDM Isuzu rodeo of unknown year. Looks like some sort of corporate axle with a dropout center. it’s laying on the side of the road:

An 8.25 from a liberty would be what I would recommend. Disk brakes come standard. East to swap gears with the adjusters. Large axle tubes but better clearance. Also the 8.8 is narrow and while that doesn’t make a huge difference in the YJ/TJ/XJ crowd, it is very noticeable on an MJ which means spacers are in order. Lot of work for not much gain. If your going 37’s then it can be a decent axle to build. But I’d have to get one for free and plan on tuning 37’s to make it worth the investment.

Nice rig! And good advice regarding keeping it clean

4” would be my recommendation

Double check your engine to tranny bolts and tranny to tcase bolts. I had tranny bolts be a little loose that caused this issue.

Looking good! Be sure to post in the Member Projects section.

Good info! Was going to grab a set of used xj leafs but the guy wanted minimum $200 for rusty old springs from a 96. I have the 4 leaf pack. I don’t have a spare and rarely carry any significant weight.

. Also carefully inspect the bulbs.

No worries. Just trying to see if 2” would be enough. Granted, I could just run the whole XJ pack under the MJ main but would like the MJ overload

Were you soa when you did that swap? If so, what’s your rocker heigh just in front of the rear whee to the ground? Or whatever other non-flare reference point you want to use. I’ll check mine for comparison

Thanks for the feedback. What about swapping in the whole explorer pack. I could redrill the centering hole back 1/2” if needed. They are specd at 6.5” free arch and 1100lb capacity with is pretty similar load to the MJ 4 leaf pack. The XJ is specd at 745lb load with 6.375 free arch. As I mentioned before, I can grab either set from rock auto.

There is also a rubber channel just above the rear window that acts as a support.

I never buy a stock replacement belt. Loosen the tensioner about 2/3-3/4 of the way and get a string to follow the belt layout. Then measure the string and go to the auto parts store. Request a 6 rib serpentine belt that is right around that length. I believe it’s somewhere around 93-94”

Thanks Pete! Just to clarify, I will be buying a new set of springs for either an xj or exploder depending on your recommendations.

Hey all, wanted to get your feedback on my options. Running 33’s and trimmed fenders with Napier flares. Have a rubicon express coil setup up front that is giving me about 3.5” of lift. The front sits just right but the back is SOA with stock springs and is at least 2” too high. Because of my location and logistics, my only feasible options are: 1. Run explorer leafs (let me know the year and model to get) 2. Run an MJ main and explorer bastard back 3. Run an MJ main and XJ springs. Don’t have any parts yards here I can get parts from so anything I get will come from rock auto and ship straight to me. I don’t mind a slight rake but would prefer to keep things level. About 500lbs is the most I ever have in the bed and it’s not that often. Let me know which option you’d recommend. Would like to net maybe 4” total lift out back. Pic for reference

I used a heat gun on an old set. If your not trying to salvage the old lenses it makes it much easier. I bet this will be a complete housing though

I ran 3 Webers in the past. Does yours have an electric choke? There are a few variations of the Weber 38. All are fairly self explanatory. Vacuum to distributor, fuel in (regulated to 3.5psi), electric choke line and throttle cable/kickdown if applicable. Can probably dig up a diagram if you have the exact model handy

That would be awesome if they did

Wow, I sold mine cheap .

There will probably be some “panic” sales from some of the hoarders out there. NOS will always fetch a higher price though if history is any indication. I kind of look at it like: what’s happening with nos tail lights will be happening soon enough for the whole MJ. Say the lights are worth 100% original price plus inflation, that would put them up at several hundred each. Add supply and demand and your at probably 200% or more over original pricing. I don’t think the price of the tail lights is the underlying issue (but I have seen some that seem ridiculously priced). It’s the price of the truck that doesn’t add up. The market should start driving up the cost of these trucks but the fact that most people who see an MJ think it was some sort of owner modified Cherokee speaks volumes. The average Joe is buying an MJ because “they look cool”. To them, they shouldn’t be paying much for an 30ish year old truck. But only MJ collectors are buying NOS lights. Two very different markets and they will probably start merging soon given how many MJs are left.

I ran the waggy 44 with a rodeo 44 rear. Awesome combo and I have no doubt that it could handle 37’s but would probably benefit from axle shaft upgrades

You’d have to redesign the water outlets, run a coil pack ignition and get a new cam sensor setup. It could definitely be done but by someone who owns a CNC shop with a huge budget and a love of the 4.0. Essentially they would be building a BMW engine and there’s nothing wrong with that

I suppose the lens is better than nothing! I spoke with them back in March and they said no.

Yeah he can get you the best setup for sure