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Yep, I work with those all the time for my dash switch systems. The 3 prong connect for to the back of a typical lit rocker switch. Can be used for fog, cargo, sports bar, and auto tranny switches. Center pin is load bottom is source and top is ground. The light socket look reusable. It takes a “74” bulb and twists in to the back of your switch panel housing. These are for the switches to the left and right of the steering column.

That fad has been around for at least the last decade now. Makes a truck sit more like a car i suppose. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t like too much rake either but some rake is not only normal but necessary. Just don’t waste too much money on a style. That being said, there is about a 1.75-2” rake stock. You can raise the front by adding some coil spacers.

It’s a trade off I suppose. If you need the mounts to be stiffer I’ve had good success filling in the voids of an oem mount with 3m window weld.

Yeah I ran those on my YJ and they definitely transmit way to many vibes. Just ordered a set of new Mopar oem ones to replace my aftermarket ones (not brown dog on my mj though).

I’ve come across the same thing several times.

Welcome to the club! Any MJ is a nice one in my book. For clarification do you have an 86 Comanche? Let us know what engine you have in your MJ currently. A Toyota engine swap is pretty much a no go unless you have great fabrication skills, a complete understanding of efi systems and a shop at your disposal. 4wd swap is easy enough but still requires a front axle, transmission and transfer case as well as front driveshaft. There are several good engine swap candidates depending on what year mj you have and what is in it currently. If your thinking in terms of reliability, the Jeep 2.5 4cyl and the 4.0 I6 are both in the “legendary” reliability category if properly maintained.

In lieu of a press, I used my hydraulic jack and an appropriate size pipe. Just stick the pinion in the freezer and the bearing in the oven on 150. Then used the frame rail as the “press” plate.

Have you thought about just brazing in a piece there? I’d media blast that area, determine what if any metal repair is needed then straighten it out best i could. Then us some short hair fiberglass filler followed by a skim coat. Brazing has worked really well for me over welding the sheet metal

Looking for a full length console in new or very good used shape. I’ll take care of shipping so no worries there. My console had been broken since I got it and I removed it the other day. Just got tired of looking at it lol

Just installed my azzy linkage today. Installation took about 45mins including finding the right tools. Taking out the old linkage took the longest. I pry bar worked great to separate the linkage from the rubber bushings. You’ll need to remove the rubber bushing from the upper lever. I heated up the end of my pry bar with a propane torch and used that to just burn out that bushing. Once installed I had to adjust it a bit but it’s working great now. I must say, it provides a much more positive feel over the stock linkage. You can definitely feel it engaging in each position. I now have no problem going to 4 low

Is the shifter throw linear or does it have a gate? If it’s just a straight or linear throw I’d just grab a piece of aluminum from Home Depot and trim it to fit. Add some urethane sealer and some self tapping screws and your good to go. Make an opening for the shifter throw and put on a universal shifter boot (Novak probably has one they’ll give you off the shelf)

Probably would have had to go like $150 to win it.

Wasn't me. Auction ended at like 3am for me so I wasn't able to adjust the bid further @JolietJEEP'84 Did you get it?

This is my main line of work actually. I do home security, automation, surveillance systems and a/v.

Alcan springs and national springs are will make you exactly what you need. Just quoted $816 from alcan for the pair. Alcans and Deavers are the best bet if you want the perfect custom spring.

Shouldn’t require a case spreader. If all your changing is the pinion bearing than just keep the same shim stack thickness so you won’t have to mess with backlash or pinion depth. The only thing you would need to adjust is bearing preload which has nothing to do with your contact pattern. The carrier shims are inboard of the carrier bearing 99% of the time so they shouldn’t need to be adjusted.

I have that kit sitting in a box waiting to be installed. Once I realized I had to pull the console and shifter I decided to wait and pull the carpet to clean out really well at the same time

I’m going to try to go for this one

I have ppg dimzler on mine. 2019 Aston Martin cinnabar Orange. Lots and lots of pearl. That being said, I used to pint quite a bit with summit single stage low voc. My last coat of base I would mix in some clear along with the single stage. Then I cleared over that but always added a bit of single stage to the clear. Super hard and added much more depth then single stage by itself.

i have also contemplated something similar.

Makes sense I just can’t picture the scenario at the moment. Either way, your custom switch panel is almost finished!

I just don’t understand the need to force 2nd.

That grand wagoneer switch would probably have worked well too

From what I’ve gathered about the eliminator, they had more insulation on the firewall and originally were only 2wd. It wasn’t until 90 I believe when they had a 4wd option. Not sure why but our club seems to have nearly all 91 eliminators ever made.

Are these adjustable arms?