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I went through this myself and finally replaced the whole system. I used braided an -6 lines along with a moroso tranny oil cooler (has a built in filter and does multiple passes). Converted the whole thing to an fittings and have had zero leaks now. Cost about $400 for the cooler and all fittings but it’s virtually bullet proof now. If you somewhere that gets cold than it is recommended to keep your tranny cooler in the radiator to pre-heat the tranny oil on cold days. You can also run the an lines and fittings with the radiator cooler. Here is a nice write up that I used for some part numbers: http://there4.io/2019/07/17/Jeep-XJ-Transmission-Cooler-Line-Ugrade/

I use a JBA stainless down pipe for a TJ. It routes the exhaust in front of the oil pan sump instead of crossing the bellhousing. Works very well.

If your fine with cutting off the old brackets of the axle, grab a 98+ rodeo/passport rear axle. 63” wms and would fit the wider rear of the MJ well. Those are the HD44’s and are very stout.

Awesome, thanks!

Anyone have the measurement for the space between the back of the center console and the rear bulkhead? Just need to see the distance to the narrowest point between the console and that rear wall. The center console in my truck is out right now and i'm gathering the info for an audio project. Thanks!

Just in case you want to spring for some shocks specifically setup for your rig I’ve heard great things about these guys: https://accutuneoffroad.com

I always run thick cut gears in my D44’s so carrier break isn’t an issue. The TJR air lockers all ran the 3.73 and numerically lower carrier size with thick cut 4.10 gears. Same goes for all the rodeo D44 axles. They’re thick cut gearsets with 4.10, 4.56, 4.88 etc.

I'm waiting for a 2dr gladiator with a diesel. Imho the 4 door jk jl and jt are hideous

Just two quick notes: my rubber brown dog mounts still vibrated more than oem but less than the poly ones I have now. I did like the extra support the brown dogs incorporate. The oem motor mounts are still well stocked and aren’t really a nos part. They just superseded the part number. The current one is 52019201AC. I got mine from Mopar wholesale parts online but almost everyone carries that part number.

The 96-97 rodeo/passport axle is the best. 98+ also works great since it’s an HD44 with 8.9” ring gear. 6 on 5.5. I ran this combo with the waggy front, stroker and 35’s and wheeled it to death in Texas, Arkansas and Utah. Added warn hubs and built a nice crossover steering setup using ruff stuff specialties heims and dom. I sold that YJ but absolutely loved that axle combo. More room under the axle in the back than an 8.8 and 6 on 5.5 looks like they belong on a Jeep. Overall stronger axle than an 8.8 also. Thicker tubes, way bigger brakes, D60 pinion and bigger ring. Only thing that ever let me down was a warn hub. One of the seals failed after a waterfall climb Here is the info I wrote on jeepforum years back. I bought and built several of these axles specifically to gather accurate data on them:

I run 5125’s on my mj. Just consider what valving you’ll need. Front and rear valving will typically be different

Can’t say I’ve seen much worse on a vehicle that’s less than 50 years old. I’d work on adding a bit or reinforcement to the unibody “frame rails”.

They’ve known about us for quite some time but have never posted here. @Red Mistress knows them I believe.

So the switch itself is a timed delay off? So basically it can be switched on with the key and go off either with key off or after 10mins?

Thanks! Yeah I'm not a fan of bedliner over the whole truck. I don't really see where the investment is in the truck.

Yeah same here. after adding my bumper and winch combo I had to add about 3/4-1" spacer to get back to stock rake

I don't believe any MJ's came with defrost switches like the XJ's did. Those 3 pin connectors were used for quite a few of the different switch options. I've been collecting a small stack of them for use with my switch bezels and assemblies.

I know there are mixed feeling on using team cherokee but i've gotten quite a few things from them. Just noticed they have a lot of stuff discounted (by alot) and are adding another 10% discount on whatever is in your cart. Noticed they are carrying NOS 28mm sway bars for $30ish which is pretty cool. Picked up a bunch of small items i've been needing.

Oddly enough, I’ve found the rivet and non river 10 holes on rock auto about once every couple of months. They pop up as reconditioned there if anyone is interested

I would have never been able to buy an mj if I would have posted pictures on here . What I find ironic is that someone would pay top dollar for the tail lights, original wheels, sliding rear glass, possibly a factory sunroof etc but the whole truck for 4800 is a rip??? Come on guys... Yeah the paint looks like crap but these pictures are all low quality. The body plug is interesting and could be indicative of someone who cares about their truck. If it is a one owner then we’re talking about someone who is likely no younger than their 50’s at this point. Those floor matts are very old. Seat covers and floor mats with no visible crack in the dash would leave me to believe that they care somewhat about their rig. Hvac control panel is very clean on our one good pic. It’s also obvious that it was recently washed and is wet which will make it tough to tell much about the paint. Just a look at a crappy pic I would think single stage urethane with no clear but the oxidation on the hood is obviously from clear. Look at the neighborhood, look at the lawn, look at the fact that this is likely garaged. So many other things to see here outside of just the truck itself. No engine should leak if properly maintained...

Not to be a contrarian here but it’s not a bad looking little truck. It may be just what someone wants and if so the price may be reasonable to them. 100% original trucks aren’t the only ones that have value to a potential buyer. That being said, I don’t really see 22k being invested in this rig. Aside from the liner job and lift looks like they just took everything else from a beat up xj. Unless he’s got a lot invested into axles, brakes, steering etc. I’m not seeing the investment. They need it post up their build specs

Yep, I work with those all the time for my dash switch systems. The 3 prong connect for to the back of a typical lit rocker switch. Can be used for fog, cargo, sports bar, and auto tranny switches. Center pin is load bottom is source and top is ground. The light socket look reusable. It takes a “74” bulb and twists in to the back of your switch panel housing. These are for the switches to the left and right of the steering column.

That fad has been around for at least the last decade now. Makes a truck sit more like a car i suppose. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t like too much rake either but some rake is not only normal but necessary. Just don’t waste too much money on a style. That being said, there is about a 1.75-2” rake stock. You can raise the front by adding some coil spacers.

It’s a trade off I suppose. If you need the mounts to be stiffer I’ve had good success filling in the voids of an oem mount with 3m window weld.

Yeah I ran those on my YJ and they definitely transmit way to many vibes. Just ordered a set of new Mopar oem ones to replace my aftermarket ones (not brown dog on my mj though).