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Yeah the heavier crankshaft has 12 counterweights and is quite a hefty piece of iron. The trick with it is the snout is a decent amount longer than a 4.0 crank so you’ll need to either have the machine shop grind it down or use a machined spacer for the balancer/pulley. You’ll also need a custom pilot bearing if it’s a manual tranny setup. Personally I’ve been quite happy with the newer lighter cranks. If I were going to build something for only low end torque I might consider a diesel. The 12cw crank does have quite a windage issue in the oil pan at higher rpm’s. I don’t really see the advantage with it but it I have seen both sides argue the issue. To me, you could also have a super heavy flywheel have the same result but we’re talking a very slightly marginal difference in real world application but considerable extra weight. Whichever way you go, I do strongly recommend having the machine shop balance the entire rotating assembly. This makes worlds of difference for a smooth running engine. The 96 and newer 4.0 blocks are also a nice revision since that was the first year of the NVH (noise vibration and harshness) revisions. The 87-90 renix 4.0’s also had a higher nickel content in the block supposedly which could possibly take for a more durable block but it’s just so minimal it’s probably not worth the effort. My current 4.0 definitely has more power than my last stroker engine. I took a 96 block, bored 60 over decked for zero clearance, thinner cometic mls head gasket, balanced and lightened 4.0 crank, hypereutectic pistons, mild cam, adjustable billet roller rockers, hylift Johnson lifter, chromo pushrods, melling hv pump, Edelbrock aluminum head, dui ignition, Ford 24# 6 hole injectors, 63mm TB, 99+ ported intake, arp bolts for everything. I don’t have a dyno available here but it’s quick and has loads of torque. My dream build would be an aluminum block diesel. Basically a light weight lcg diesel build on 37’s. Maybe one day

For regearing it depends on the axle but in general you would need: a press, dial indicator, micrometer (not digital calipers), beam style torque wrench in inlbs (for pinion preload), pinion yoke holder, and a gear bearing puller set (this one is insanely helpful for setting up gears but not 100% necessary. I use a unit from revolution axle and gear. You could also use setup bearings or make your own setup bearings with a die grinder and some old bearings.) A variety of large sockets is also a must along with a good impact wrench, vice and possibly a case spreader. Setting up gears requires a sizeable tool investment but the actual install isnt too hard. You just need to always be thinking in 3D (X, Y & Z axis) when making adjustments. For engine rebuilding, it all depends on how much you will do yourself vs how much you'll have done at the machine shop. The list of tools here is quite extensive.

Or some 10” shackles

Yeah I should have clarified I just didn’t have much time to reply lol. Eagle is correct. There are a many different stroker “recipes” I’ve build 3 of them along with several “high performance” naturally aspirated 4.0’s. The basic stroker recipe is to use the 4.2 crank and rods. To keep things relatively economical and plug and play you ideally you would want a donor 87-90 YJ 4.2 (258). As was mentioned, the rods front the 4.0 are longer and stronger so they don’t operate at such steep angles like the shorter 4.2 rods do. The 4.0 makes its power up higher which is typical of an over-square engine design (larger bore than stroke). The 4.2 crank with its longer stroke combined with the larger bore of the 4.0 gives a fairly “square” setup which is nice for all around power. Using the longer 4.0 rods though give a better rod angle which generally translates to durability at higher rpms. Another neat option is to get a crank from an amc 232 engine found in several 70’s amc cars. It’s has a 3.500” stroke vs the 3.411 of the 4.0. You can use a couple varieties of of the shelf pistons along with a .060 bore and get a pretty nice combo with the stock 4.0 rods. Not as torquey down low as the 4.2 based stroker but a nice hybrid. Here is a ton of good information I researched before building my strokers: http://jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/stroker.html

The short 4.2 rods have kind of a borderline rod angle. The most economical stroker is a mini stroker. Use a 232 crank and the 4.0 rods. Ideally use the 4.2 or scat crank and longer 4.0 rods but you’ll need specific pin height pistons. Keep quench real tight

It would be tough to get a spring over axle setup to be at 4” of lift or less. I’m using a set of XJ Cherokee leaf springs and replacing all but the main leaf on my Comanche with them. The Cherokee springs have less arch and will bring you down a bit but likely not enough to be legal. You can switch back to spring under axle and you’ll have some more options for 4” or under

Soa nets 5-6” depending on springs. 2” longer than stock shackles lift 1”

And don’t forget to get a tape measure to get your actual tire size. Most 33’s are 32’s or even 31’s when new.

TJ axles are a downgrade unless they are from a rubicon.

@Pete M would have the most up to date info on a liberty (KJ) axle swap (Plus he has one for sale that is 4.10 geared but 27 spline). I've done a bunch of 8.8's and 44's. The 8.25 may have coil buckets that will need to be cutoff depending on the vehicle it came from. You'll need to get new spring pads welded on and set the correct pinion angle. Not hard at all but will require at least a good grinder and welder.

The 8.25 is better for 33's than an 8.8 imho. 8.8 is just too narrow for MJ's and too fat of an axle for 33's. Add the thin axle tubes, and c-clips and its really not a great option compared to the 8,25. I run a super 35 that works great with tons of clearance. For a front axle, most 4cyl D30 fronts will have 4.10's. Look for an XJ or MJ 4.10 D30 front (ideally without the vacuum disconnect-but your front driveshaft will now spin constantly). A TJ axle will also bolt in but is a low pinion axle and would be a downgrade. If you're going with the regear option, go 4.56. You won't regret it. And if you swap axles, that old 44 will have some resale value to help cover the costs.

The difference is nice when it comes to crawl ratio and acceleration. It’s been my experience that the 4.0’s like to run mid to high 2k when cruising. With my built engine, 4.56 gears and aw4 I’m still getting close to 20mpg when cruising.

Congrats! Didn’t realize how young some of our members are but that’s awesome. I seem to recall a thread here somewhere describing the person behind the screen name. Anyone remember where that thread is or what’s it’s called? Had some interesting info

Lots of history over here on the westernmost frontier

I can’t see you pic but check this out for replacement parts:

@derf Has a magical calculator for gear ratios, tire size, tranny and tcase combo and more on that link in his sig. That is one of the best resources for figuring out what gearing to go with. I’ve been using it for years on my builds.

Yeah that’s a good idea. You can always add an Aussie locker up front without messing with your gears at all. Have the full carrier locker of your choice installed along with the gears in the rear. 4.56 is a really nice ratio for 33’s as @Pete M pointed out. I have zero complaints with them and would have no issue going to 35’s if I chose to

Big investment especially if your doing just one set of axles

I’d recommend 4.56 gears for 33’s. A touch high for 33’s but they would also work for 35’s. What gears do you have currently? If 3.73 or below in the rear you will have to do a carrier swap or use thick cut gears (preferred). The Dana 30 carrier break is also 3.73 so any numerically higher gearset will need a new carrier. Now is the time to consider full lockers (arb, Detroit, Eaton, truetrac etc). I get all my gears and install kits from revolution axle and gear. They used to be superior gear and have great products and service. If your going to install the gears yourself you’ll need quite a few specialty tools. This will not be a cheap endeavor unless you can get free/cheap parts and labor

Is it just the passenger side? I found water pooling just under the blower motor cutout. Added a 1/4” hole there to drain out the basin. Zero issues since

I ran regular 10w30 Dino oil and it was quiet and smooth

That’s a neat tool! I always use vice grips

Novak, Mishimoto or the old jeepspeed Griffin radiator. The Novak is the biggest core and has no trans cooler built in. Also uses an inline filler cap. Mishimoto seems to be a good all around. The new cold case radiators look promising as well

I used 5’ and 6’ -6 an lines. Perfect size and the moroso cooler already has -6 connectors and the cooler fits perfect just below the radiator support. Just an idea

When I was building a 95 rodeo axle I called Dutchman axle and they sent me a set of chrome shafts for it but the shaft specs they had were wrong. The issue is the center bore on the drum/disk. It’s to large to drill the 5 on 4.5 pattern. Options are 2 piece wheel adapters (i ran a set from ez accessories for about $200 that worked great) but you’d add a fair amount of width. You could also do custom axle shafts and rotors but that’s also pricey and a pain. I recommend converting the from to 6 on 5.5. The old Reid knuckles used to work great for this but ultimately a waggy front is what you want. They are some beefy axles and you can throw in some warn hubs. The D52 calipers fit right on them and they are just a nice all around axle to work with. If you want to stick with stock wheel patterns than an 8.25 is my recommendation. Not keen on the exploder 8.8. I’m running a super 35 with a tnt truss and am loving the clearance and strength on 33’s. Guys around here are running 14 bolts on 35’s or bald 37’s and I have so much more clearance under my axles. 8.8 is narrow, thin walled, small brakes, oversized pumpkin c clip axle. Imho they can stay in the junkyards but several have had good success with them. I would consider building one if I wanted to run 37’s on some nice stock pattern wheels I already had (like some Method or Raceline beadlocks). Otherwise I’d drop in another 98+ Rodeo/passport axle and a waggy front end.