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Any good welding shop should be able to retube. Currie also does it fit a good price. You can do it yourself if you are a good welder and have some essential tools. Less complex than setting up gears on most axles but more labor intensive

You can either retube it or run radius arms

Driving style, transmission, lockers etc. All determine how long something will last. I saw some sort of hybrid crawler one day running 37’s on a d35 and had run that way for years. I would never try that but some do.

I like where your going with this. If you can add an sbec connector that would be awesome for us obd1 crowd. For some reason it seems like Renix gets all the new products anymore. Was about to socket my sbec ecu and reprogram the eprom to tune my built 4.0. If you can make this setup plug and play that would be great.

I always start with steering and brakes.

Yeah Russ’ work is amazing. He really knows these engines and builds them incredibly well. Also has very good pricing for the work and products involved. So many of the products on Hesco are just off the shelf components from your local auto parts store but at huge markups. I recall hearing very good things about Bennie Hesco’s engines back in the day but I don’t really feel like they have the same quality anymore. I would take Russ’ builds any day over any of the competitors.

Here is the latest: Rreplaced rotor cap and plug wires with DUI livewires. Then upgraded to Ford Motorsport 24lb injectotors. These are 6 hole ev6 style injectors and are rated 24lbs at 39psi (stock fuel rail pressure at WOT). Next step is intake and tuning. Going to have Chris at christuned socket the obd1 ecu and reprogram the EPROM. Will install a data logger first and get some baseline readings.

Is that Russ Pottenger’s shop? If so, I can vouch for his builds. Nothing less than phenomenal work and customer support. I don’t recommend 505 performance or Hesco due to poor customer support from both. Clifford and Hesco were apparently both awesome companies back in the days of the original owners.

Yep, they warm up when driving lol. That would actually be pretty cool. Not fun to unlock frozen hubs

Something like that. I believe it’s actually about the same width as stock. +/- 61” wms-wms. They use D152 brake calipers and can easily run Warn hubs.

I'm also in the middle of the pacific so I understand the dilema. ATK was building Mopar stroker engines so they are decent. Personally I would build it myself. Built several of them and just tel your machine shop to do the boring and decking/milling as needed. You can get pretty much everything else from summit. If you keep the quench tight you can really run lower octane than you would imagine. There are plenty of strokers running on 87

It can still handle 37’s with a good set of shafts plus the bolt pattern is perfect for the rodeo/passport Hd44 rear

I ran a waggy D44 front with a rodeo 44 rear and that was an awesome combo. That was on a built YJ with stroker. Those old school heavy d44’s are awesome axles. The HP of course is better but don’t discount the LP. It was much stronger than I expected. Just think about the size vehicle it came from. I’d say it’s a true 1/2 ton axle.

There you go. I inserted the missing words

And,,, don’t swap you brake booster until you go through the list to check your brake system first. Just my $.02

Yeah I ran a relay harness for a while on a really nice set of sealed bulbs and it just wasn’t cutting it for me. Went with morimoto projectors and haven’t looked back

Although the JK30 is a bit of an upgrade over an XJ30 in stock form, both axles can be modified to death. By the time you do all the mods (truss, gusset, shafts, locker etc) you’ll be in it for more than a good HP44. That being said, a built xj30 and jk30 are not that far apart when it comes to what they can handle. It’s not a very big upgrade unless you are only comparing stock-to-stock specs.

And don’t discount regearing your existing axle. The Ford 8.8 is a boat anchor for 33’s. The 8.25 liberty is a very nice choice. However, since you have to reheat your front axle to match, you can often get a decent deal to do both at the same time. What engine and transmission do you have? That will make a big difference as to what gears to go with. I have a built 4.0 with the auto tranny and run 4.56 gears. I could have easily gone with 4.88 gears also and been fine. The point is, you won’t find many stock axles in those ratios so a regear may be in order for whatever you decide to get. If money isn’t an object then have Currie enterprises or east coast gear supply build you a pair of axles. If you want to be more frugal then perhaps settle for 31” tire and about a 2-3” or so lift. That along with a good set of flares will let you keep stock axles (still don’t get too wild with them), and mostly stock suspension/steering. Will be a nice daily driver rig with decent off-road potential. If you do regear a dana 35 just keep in mind it’s limitations. They typically brake an axle shaft first so upgrading to 27 spline axle shafts that are built from a stronger and more forgiving materialI will give your axle more life. A truss (I run a model from TNT) will strengthen your axle tubes a stiffen the axle overall. If you have a pre-1990 dana 35 then they have bolt-in axles and are decent little axles but not nearly as strong as the Chrysler 8.25, Ford 8.8, Dana 44 or AMC 20. Even those axles have some models that are not very desirable. I guess you could say it all boils down to tire size and budget as this really determines everything.

The gauge provision on the back of the head should be 1/8npt as is the oil pressure sender. The ecu doesn’t need either of those signals. You can go with a large variety of units. If you want to go with a stock setup then go with @jdog’s suggestion. For aftermarket, you can grab an a pillar 1 or 2 gauge pod for an XJ from autometer and install 2 1/16 autometer gauges with senders. I do find the autometer route far more accurate than a factory gauge but that’s just my $.02

Regarding brakes, the dual diaphragm swap is a good one as Pete mentioned. If your interested, there is a thread in this section regarding where to start first with the brakes that may be helpful to you. Although most will say to waste no money on the Dana 35 rear axle that is likely in your Jeep, I have been running one for several years now with 4.56 gears, upgraded axle shafts, a small truss (to stiffen the axle housing and tubes) on 33’s. Works very well for me and I have a lot more clearance under the axle than any other rig on 33’s. I wouldn’t recommend going any bigger though. Tire width also plays a factor in how long these axles last.

I’d like a pair also

In my opinion (pulled and installed about 6 of these setups), I prefer installing the engine and tranny together. That way you can ensure simple things like your cps and bellhousing alignment are spot on before installing. I always put the tcase on separately since they are really easy to install under the truck. Just get a ratcheting box wrench with a swivel for the tcase to tranny nuts. I’d pull the tcase for removal as well. With the radiator crossmember pulled it’s a fairly straight shot and I’ve never needed to jack up the front. Just my $.02

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-330-9371 This would probably work just fine. There are many other options but I’m partial to Wilwood. Lokar makes a great set also that has more adapters in the kit also. Both of those kits are cut to length.

Stock MJ e brake cables can be made to work with that setup (slight modification required) or you can run TJ cables as I believe that is the setup for them. Personally I’d just grab a set of universal cables in the correct length. It will come with various ends so you can get exactly what you need. I believe the TJ cables are a bit short if you have a long bed.

I’ve been running 95% water along with water wetter for corrosion inhibition. Essentially it’s a racing coolant setup. No worries about freezing here ever . Works well but still gets too hot. The new injectors and timing advance should straighten that out.