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I don’t there there is any cooling configuration, system or trick I haven’t tried up till now. It’s pretty clear currently that the radiator/fan setup just can’t keep up. Never had much issue with the heat at all in Texas but this tropical heat here is really hard to work with. It’s like the whole Jeep just heat soaks even when it’s parked

Considering the Novak radiator. (2) 1.5” cores and it’s a full length core with no trans cooler (I run a separate moroso setup).

Who makes the hands down best radiator out there? I’ve tried the stock replacements, csf, dual and triple core aluminums. I am sick of a radiator and cooling fans that can’t keep up with anything. These ff dynamics triple 10 fans are definitely not up to the task either. And I have the shrouds and 60 amps direct from a yellow top battery with a singer 240a alternator. I’m ready to invest into the last radiator/fan setup I will ever have to buy.

Really wish we knew what knuckle alternatives exist for changing wheel bolt patterns. I’d like to find 6x5.5

I see what your referring to. That’s a spindle. Stub shaft is a different part.

The regular moog problem saver ball joints should take care of that issue. Or adjustable control arms. The interesting thing with the Reid knuckles is if they had the standard old d44 spindle mounts so we could swap to different bolt patterns easily. The stock brakes on a WJ are slightly better than the JK in both piston surface are and pad swept surface. I wish Reid still made the d30/44 TJ knuckles. It was a perfect way to swap in locking hubs, 6x5.5 wheel pattern, d154 calipers and any steering you want. Perfect complement for a rodeo/passport rear. I'm really trying to find out what knuckles would bolt on to a xj D30 and offer different caliper mounting/unit bearing options.

The e brake cable is the TJ style. Looks like you have a good overview of what’s needed now. Let us know how it goes! Grab that adjustable Wilwood prop valve to if possible. Your 88 knuckles have a ball joint preload insert on the bottom of the knuckle. There should be no need to mess with it but if it is damaged or you decide to replace it (normally a new one come with the lower ball joint set for your 88), you will need the appropriate spaner wrench and set it to a depth of .206

There is no stub shaft on a 2WD. Not sure what you may be referring to. The stub shaft is the short end of the axle shaft that runs from the u joint to the unit bearing splines.

The schematic shows where it goes. It is a centric ring for the axle to rotor flange

Why would a 2wd need stub shafts?

The D35 kit comes with dual piston D154 calipers. Some member on this forum swapped to 4 piston rears. Can’t remember who it was. If doing 4 piston rears then I’d do 6 piston fronts. Or just leave as is and run the 2 piston rears and 4 piston fronts

Swapping the ball joint is required when doing the WJ knuckle swap also

The D44 JK uses 32 but the D30 uses 30 spline outers. Since the WJ knuckles swap to the JK and XJ axles then the JK knuckles should swap to XJ/MJ/YJ/TJ as well.

If you look at the Wilwood flange offset reference chart posted in your other thread it will show you how to measure that and other specs.

But the question is using JK unit bearings instead of WJ ones. The stub shaft would need to be changed but otherwise it seems like a possible bolt in

If it’s the distribution block your looking for I just happen to have an extra I posted in the classifieds section. It’s from my 91 MJ and had no leaks. I know the switch was functional too. I upgraded to a Wilwood adjustable unit

I think you both are tired lol. Flipping a fan blade assembly will not change the direction of the air flow. You should be able to simply reverse polarity on the fan motor. Unless you can change the pitch of the blades like a helicopter.

The WJ knuckles bolt on to the JK axles which means that the JK knuckles bolt to TJ/XJ/YJ axles! I am starting to suspect that Vanco runs a RHD and LHD JK knuckle with Ford rotors and calipers. The lower ball joint should be replaced with the WJ/JK one for proper clearance but many don’t. I’ve been trying to crack the recipe for a “bolt-on” big brake kit for 90+ D30’s for a while now.

The JK uses a 30 spline outer even in the d30. So WJ knuckles and brakes with JK unit bearings and stub shafts? Interesting concept. I believe JK knuckles are also an option and if they are then that opens up the possibility of Reid knuckles... Someone please try this combo and post up the results!

You mean for the brakes? Is your rear load valve still in tact and functional?

I’m thinking of trying something similar. Installing a 10” pusher in the hot side of the radiator.

Do you have it mounted to your condenser?

IIRC the underlying issue is centering the U joints

What size pusher did you run? Looking for something I could put in front of my condenser

I agree with the ZJ brakes barely being adequate. We tried to do that brake system write up to help avoid some of the issues that @JustEmptyEveryPocket experienced, namely, no real improvement over stock. Hands down the best upgrades are hydroboost and multi-piston calipers with larger disks. Every Jeep I get I invest in steering and brakes first and go from there.