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And the front fenders are super abundant and easy to find. I went JCR and love them.

Personally I would use a good adapter for the bubble flares to inverted flare. That tool I linked doesn’t do bubble flares but it does oem quality inverted ones. The good tool that does both is about $200

If you go to rear disks then the adjusting valve isn’t going to give the correct pressure for disks. Remove the load sensing valve and delete the distribution block. Run a new copper line back to the soft axle line. Replace the distribution block with and adjustable valve (eg wilwood) and the bracket that mounts to the MC studs in the booster and provided a solid mount for the prop valve. You need a passenger side drop bracket since there is no room for the prop valve to be in the drivers side of the MC without removing the washer bottle (or updating to the 97+ bottle). The pic of the bracket and mounting is in my build thread. Alternatively, you could use a ZJ prop valve. The distribution of pressure for disks is pretty close to 50/50. You will likely want less than 50% in the rear though depending on whether or not the truck has anything in the bed. Difference in front and rear piston sizes in the calipers makes a difference as well. An adjustable valve makes it easy to adjust properly.

@EUREKA That does look similar. I believe dirt bound off-road makes a triple 10 shroud that you can install your own fans on. Perhaps their shroud and some tried and true Spal fans and quality controller that can handle the load should work well. I am a bit dubious in the FF dynamics fan output claim. I have a feeling they are estimating the current draw and cfm at 14.5v or so under ideal circumstances.

Well it’s a bolt on kit and gives the advantage of disks. No real stopping power improvements over well functioning drums though. I would do it for the convenience though. The front takes most of the braking load and is where I would invest first if I had to choose just one though. If you switch to rear disks I’d recommend running a new line to the rear and just removing the load sending valve and old distribution block. Install a Wilwood adjustable prop valve with passenger side drop bracket. That way you can dial in your brakes and make adjustments for future updates. Just my $.02

Just wanted to post here about my experience with the FF Dynamics triple 10 fan kit. I’ve had the kit for 2 years. The fans work well but are a bit on the noisy side. They are sealed and have a lifetime warranty. Their specs show better than most spal fans. Current draw is supposed to be 5a each but that doesn’t tell you at what voltage. They include an “adjustable” fan controller that has some serious shortcomings though. First of all, it only handles 30a and these fans pull right at that on startup. Second, the controller only has a single on/off temp. So when temp is close to the startup temp it will cycle on/off frequently and really puts a heavy load on the electrical. My controller fuse holder (which is only 14awg) melted A few months back and now the whole controller is shot. I’ll be replacing it with a painless 60a controller with a 10degree sweep between on and off positions. The FF dynamics controller is junk and there customer support seems to never really understand the issue so it will likely continue. Perhaps this belongs in the pub section but hopefully I can save someone the trouble of buying and using that controller.

Oh yeah, that’s the steering shaft support bushing. I was thinking steering column in the cab. Looks similar to a YJ and CJ one. Wonder if they interchange

Look for GM steering column parts. I found a kit for my 88YJ somewhere on a GM column repair store online.

None of the flares on the distribution block are “bubble flares” they are ”double” flares. See pic for reference. Tough to get get double flares straight with the bar style flare tool. Here is a simple flaring tool I’ve used and makes great leak free double flares in 3/16 every time: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900318 There’s also a really nice kit with fittings from SURR that I use every time I have a big brake line job. Comes with tons of quality fittings and good quality copper nickel tubing.

https://www.wilwood.com/brakekits/brakekitaxleflange This is a nice reference to the different axle flanges.

That kit is listed for the 97+ TJ D35 since it uses the TJ style parking brake cables but the flange is the Chrysler 8.25/D35/TJD44. Should be a very straightforward parking brake connection from our MJ’s. You’ll probably also need that spacer for the axle bearing.

The 89 and older Dana 30 MJ and XJ knuckles are desirable and worth salvaging. Crown and APTY used to manufacture them and Vanco was using them to build their “kits”. When they stopped producing them (I really wonder why) Vanco switch ti modifying the later style 90+ knuckles to accept bolt on calipers. Vanco now uses their own knuckles and pieces them together with various oem calipers and Ford rotors. I am quite curious what knuckles they are using. I recall reading on a dodge forum the interchangeability or knuckles between some dodge truck and Jeep Dana 30/44’s. The idea was to be able to get a 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern using the dodge unit bearing. I was researching that as a companion to doing a rodeo/passport Dana 44 rear to match lug patterns. If the right knuckle could be found then brakes and wheel patterns could both be easily modified with off the shelf components. To further go down the rabbit hole, JK d30 knuckles have been swapped with WJ knuckles and vice versa. And since we know WJ knuckles will swap onto our d30’s... the possibilities are very intriguing. Reid also used to make an old spindle style D44 knuckle that bolted right on to the d30 inner c and would allow you to run spindles and hubs with almost any bolt pattern.

The ZJ one can be had in the 136a range at max rpm with the stock pulley but swapping on our 4.0 pulley will net a bit more idle amps which is crucial. They are all GM hairpin style alternators and there are large and small case options. I finally went with a Singer 240a alternator which requires the same slight clearancing if the alternator bracket. Used an external adjustable regulator set to 14.2 v and eliminated the ecu regulator. Works great!

If your up for modifying the ZJ style backing plate then consider doing the Wilwood kit linked in the brake thread. It’s made to fit the 90+ D35 just like the ZJ and comes standard with duel piston calipers and 12” rotors. You can move on up to even 6 piston calipers with that backing plate. I don’t have the part numbers for the other caliper options but there is another member here who does. I think he posted into build thread with that info.

Let’s clarify a few things here. The kit that fits 90/91+ d44/d35 and 8.25 will NOT bolt on to original XJ/MJ D44s. It can be modified to fit but it’s basically just a set of d35 ZJ backing plates with Exploder or ZJ rotors. Treadles does make a kit that is supposed to be bolt on for earlier model D35’s and D44s. Non c-clip d35s (89 and earlier) and XJ and MJ D44’s have the same mounting flange pattern. TJ d44’s and 90+ D35s as well as 8.25’s share the same flange pattern. The ZJ backing plate has to be slightly enlarged for the tj d44 and the xj 8.25. Easily done with a dremel. Also as @Garvin mentioned, you’ll need a press and might as well replace the axle bearings and seals while your in there. Just remember, your really not gaining any additional braking power when going to an exploder/ZJ caliper and rotor setup. I’d look into doing at least a dual piston caliper with 12” rotor for all the work it entails. The ZJ rear disk setup is an easier swap on the newer d35/tj d44 and xj 8.25. Here is some info on the variations of the teraflex kit:

Hate to resurrect this thread after 11 years but better than starting a new thread i suppose. Does anyone know the ID of the vent hose that connects to the corner vents on the tank? Also the filler tube ID?

Mine is a metal clip that is glued from factory to the glass. I imagine that and clip could be glued on to the same location. Something like this may work and there are plenty of other versions: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Ram-Latch-2002-2017-sliding-rear-window-back-glass-slider-/264747425802

For your rear axle you already have 10” drums that are quite decent if your in a time pinch. Do the wj or xj swap then and if you have a good functional real valve you can keep that setup or remove that system and run an xj prop valve or an adjustable Wilwood one. In my build thread I documented the swap a few weeks ago

Most people on almost all the Jeep forums will tell you to stay away from Rustys. Not sure if you read through the post we linked here earlier but there are several options if you have the 89 and earlier Dana 30 front knuckles. They are all linked there. All the rear disk kits your looking at are not going to fit the xj/mj d44 our if the box. The pre 90 Dana 35’s and the xj/mj 44 have a different flange and some require a spacer to retain the axle bearing since they are pressed into your axle shafts. They can all be modified to fit though. You have to think about how much your willing to spend on brakes. You can easily go down a 2-4k rabbit hole.

Rear disks do not increase your stopping power unless you go with big calipers like a Wilwood kit. Don’t get me wrong though, disks are so much better in many aspects. If you want disks in the back but aren’t going to upgrade to a 4 piston front then go with these: https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Dana-44-Rear-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit-Dana-44-Rear-Disc-Conversion.htm That being said, until you take care of the rest of the system you will not see an improvement in braking.

If we’re talking going “all out” run Wilwoods front and back with a mild hydroboost. I agree the stock ZJ system was inadequate with any sort of heavy use. But keep in mind how subjective everyone’s breaking experience is. Pads, rotors, vacuum leaks, tires ect all contribute to bad braking. I had a 98 ZJ 5.9 for years and also used it for towing. It was quite inadequate for towing for sure. Just not enough of contact area and the rotors were too small. Think about Jeep braking over the years: MJ single diaphragm 8” booster with 15/16 MC. If you engine vacuum is good and all components are working as oem intended, it was a system that could easily lock up 31s. Throw in a worn out engine, crappy hard compound pads and no pad break in (few people even know they need to break in their pads) and you get bad brakes. In ZJs stuck with the same front brakes but added rear disks and upgraded the booster. XJ upgrades the booster in 95 with a dual 8” and, with the newfound assist, increases the bore to 1”. WJ has essentially the same MC and Booster in terms of performance but updates to a dual piston front with about a 20% increase in piston surface area iirc. Larger rotors and more swept ultimately is the biggest improvement here.

You can get all the parts from rock auto for any of these swaps or you can hit up a local yard. I would recommend you stay with a stock system with a 15/16 bore unless your truck is used for towing or runs 33’s or larger tires. If you start modifying then you should update to either and adjustable or XJ prop valve. The WJ has some flex lines from the MC to prop valve that are easy to work with. Otherwise you will need to make your own lines and grab a couple of adapters. All the newer options (XJ and WJ) Will require a m10 and m12 bubble flare to 3/16 inverted flare. The rear output (m10 on the MC) is for the front brakes. The stock prop valve is really just a distribution block on an MJ. If you still have a functioning rear load sensing valve than you can just keep that setup but will need to go through the elaborate process of bleeding that system.

A good functioning stock system works very well for most people if your on 31’s or smaller tires. The link above will help you get the most from any braking system including your stock one. For upgrade options: An 01 XJ booster and MC is a good setup. I like that the XJ booster has an adjustable MC rod. You’ll need to modify the pedal rod as with all these non original options and also reuse the 1/4” spacer that is behind your oem booster. The washer bottle will move ahead about 3/4”. The WJ booster also works well and doesn’t require a washer bottle move. You will need to modify the lip that is on the firewall just above the booster slightly. The accompanying MC is a 1” bore and works well.

Are you using steel line or copper nickel? Are you using one of those bar and clamp style flaring tools or a die style?