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Hate to resurrect this thread after 11 years but better than starting a new thread i suppose. Does anyone know the ID of the vent hose that connects to the corner vents on the tank? Also the filler tube ID?

Mine is a metal clip that is glued from factory to the glass. I imagine that and clip could be glued on to the same location. Something like this may work and there are plenty of other versions: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Ram-Latch-2002-2017-sliding-rear-window-back-glass-slider-/264747425802

For your rear axle you already have 10” drums that are quite decent if your in a time pinch. Do the wj or xj swap then and if you have a good functional real valve you can keep that setup or remove that system and run an xj prop valve or an adjustable Wilwood one. In my build thread I documented the swap a few weeks ago

Most people on almost all the Jeep forums will tell you to stay away from Rustys. Not sure if you read through the post we linked here earlier but there are several options if you have the 89 and earlier Dana 30 front knuckles. They are all linked there. All the rear disk kits your looking at are not going to fit the xj/mj d44 our if the box. The pre 90 Dana 35’s and the xj/mj 44 have a different flange and some require a spacer to retain the axle bearing since they are pressed into your axle shafts. They can all be modified to fit though. You have to think about how much your willing to spend on brakes. You can easily go down a 2-4k rabbit hole.

Rear disks do not increase your stopping power unless you go with big calipers like a Wilwood kit. Don’t get me wrong though, disks are so much better in many aspects. If you want disks in the back but aren’t going to upgrade to a 4 piston front then go with these: https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Dana-44-Rear-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit-Dana-44-Rear-Disc-Conversion.htm That being said, until you take care of the rest of the system you will not see an improvement in braking.

If we’re talking going “all out” run Wilwoods front and back with a mild hydroboost. I agree the stock ZJ system was inadequate with any sort of heavy use. But keep in mind how subjective everyone’s breaking experience is. Pads, rotors, vacuum leaks, tires ect all contribute to bad braking. I had a 98 ZJ 5.9 for years and also used it for towing. It was quite inadequate for towing for sure. Just not enough of contact area and the rotors were too small. Think about Jeep braking over the years: MJ single diaphragm 8” booster with 15/16 MC. If you engine vacuum is good and all components are working as oem intended, it was a system that could easily lock up 31s. Throw in a worn out engine, crappy hard compound pads and no pad break in (few people even know they need to break in their pads) and you get bad brakes. In ZJs stuck with the same front brakes but added rear disks and upgraded the booster. XJ upgrades the booster in 95 with a dual 8” and, with the newfound assist, increases the bore to 1”. WJ has essentially the same MC and Booster in terms of performance but updates to a dual piston front with about a 20% increase in piston surface area iirc. Larger rotors and more swept ultimately is the biggest improvement here.

You can get all the parts from rock auto for any of these swaps or you can hit up a local yard. I would recommend you stay with a stock system with a 15/16 bore unless your truck is used for towing or runs 33’s or larger tires. If you start modifying then you should update to either and adjustable or XJ prop valve. The WJ has some flex lines from the MC to prop valve that are easy to work with. Otherwise you will need to make your own lines and grab a couple of adapters. All the newer options (XJ and WJ) Will require a m10 and m12 bubble flare to 3/16 inverted flare. The rear output (m10 on the MC) is for the front brakes. The stock prop valve is really just a distribution block on an MJ. If you still have a functioning rear load sensing valve than you can just keep that setup but will need to go through the elaborate process of bleeding that system.

A good functioning stock system works very well for most people if your on 31’s or smaller tires. The link above will help you get the most from any braking system including your stock one. For upgrade options: An 01 XJ booster and MC is a good setup. I like that the XJ booster has an adjustable MC rod. You’ll need to modify the pedal rod as with all these non original options and also reuse the 1/4” spacer that is behind your oem booster. The washer bottle will move ahead about 3/4”. The WJ booster also works well and doesn’t require a washer bottle move. You will need to modify the lip that is on the firewall just above the booster slightly. The accompanying MC is a 1” bore and works well.

Are you using steel line or copper nickel? Are you using one of those bar and clamp style flaring tools or a die style?

I strongly recommend against that kit! I had it. Booster lasted about 18months before it started leaking. The master cylinder bore is far too big also and you’ll have trouble stopping with stock brakes. Here is some ideas to get you started:

15/16 or 1” bore will be your best stopping power on stock brakes. Increase bore and you increase volume but may decrease pressure without selecting the correct caliper piston sizes, unless you increase boost assist.

I’m all for the bacon and pork chops if it didn’t cost me the front end of my MJ

Do they make pig whistles too? We don’t have deer here but lots of wild pigs and those things are stout

Seriously, if your happy with halogens or LEDs then you haven’t tried a good set of projectors. Nothing compares

HID Morimoto Projectors. Nothing compares to a good projector.

Exactly. That’s why the exploder axles look very narrow on an MJ without some good size spacers.

Look for any rodeo/passport rear axle from 93+. 95+ will all have Dana 44’s. 96-97 2wd axles have 4.56 gears and are practically a bolt in for YJs aside from bolt pattern. 98+ are essentially JK axles. All years use thick cut gear sets and will have nice ratios ranging from 4.10-4.88. Most 4wd have disks and most 2wd have drums. Great little axles and easy to sell since no one seems to get that they’re all D44’s.

Also, you don’t need to look for a 97+ d30. Any ABS XJ pre 2000 will have a HP D30 with the larger u joints. My 91 front axle is a non disconnect and has the larger u joints. The JK d30 isn’t a big upgrade over the XJ 30. You can grab a nice rear d44 from a rodeo/passport and most come stick with 4.88’s. Cheap too. We have a post here about the different options

Not a bad price if everything is included and is in good shape. Also the JK housings are not aluminum so let’s quash that rumor... Stock JK axles are basically the same as stock rodeo/passport rear axles from 98 and up but with a different lug pattern.

Neat little article I found a few months back: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hagerty.com/media/car-profiles/will-jeep-comanche-follow-xj/amp/ Whats more interesting to me is how many of each trim level is left. Obviously overall economy will play a factor. One thing for sure is that interest is high. Someone needs to do a Barrett-Jackson build. I bet it would do pretty good.

I’m just referring to your typical Detroit, Grizzly and lunchbox style lockers. In a corner, the outside wheel can spin faster if needed but it never allows that wheel to spin slower than the inside wheel. These are tried and tested lockers.

In an auto locker it still allows a wheel to “differentiate” though and spin faster unlike most auto lockers which are typically spools when locked.

That’s the case with most selectable lockers but not auto lockers.