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It’s in the help! Product aisle. It’s a standard Chrysler fuel injection quick connect. It will have a barb for a 5/16 or 3/8 hose so you’ll have to grab some fuel injection rates hose from the store also. There are also adapters for the quick connect to an fittings if you’d like to go that route but those are pricey. Dorman 800-120 and 800-121 are the two part numbers for the supply and return line fittings for the fuel rail. And both have hose barbs

There’s one other MJ here on Guam that is badly rusted. I have yet to meet the owner but from what I’ve heard, it was a military order vehicle. At the time, there was no Jeep dealership on island and it wasn’t a personal import

Nice find 👍

Does anyone not recall that MJs were also built as race trucks? The Eliminator was a sporty “track” version until they added the 4x4 option. If your truck feels unstable at 85 then you need some suspension/steering work. And before you say “where can you go 85?”, our speed limit was 85 on our toll roads in TX. Most did 90-100.

When I had my MJ stateside I don’t think it would have had a problem hitting 120. At 95 it had plenty left to give. If you have the right gearing and a good strong engine it shouldn’t be a problem unless your running massive tires and lift.

It’s not terribly hard to remove the rubber molding. Once it’s off you will need to cut out the window with a wire. Remove the inner trim around the window and use a small tool such as a precision screwdriver to poke a hole in the urethane seal. After it’s all cut out, clean up the rear glass deal and put the seal back on before reinstalling. 3m window urethane is what you use to reinstall. Not a hard job just tedious

Just use the vss and swap your sending unit. Wouldn’t coat much at all for a junk yard

I always thought it would be fun to build a 2wd 4.0 track MJ. If I am ever able to build one again I think that’s what I’d build next.

Yep but the gauge still swaps easily enough . Would be a nice addition to a set of HO gauges

Used some leftover paint from my truck to do the hood and accent pieces on the ski. Will be a cool match

Just though I’d share my jet ski build here on island. It’s been taking my time away from the MJ at the moment but is turning out nicely: http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=286934 hope to have it finished by the end of the month

This video let’s you hear the sound of about every mainstream I6. V8s have an offbeat unbalanced sound which also has its charms. However straight 6s have a unique balanced sound I have come to appreciate. A tuned I6 is a sweet engine.

CR Laurence still makes the back glass. Heck, they even make the optional sunroofs still. http://crlaurence.com/crlapps/showline/offerpage.aspx?Productid=87862&GroupID=1653&History=30587:21770:1351:1389&ModelID=1653

I’ve been using wd40 degreaser to remove any leftover adhesive that has baked on over the years and it works great. Straight wd40 works well also. As for wrapping, I wouldn’t do it unless I prepped all the panels the right way. There are so many seams where rust can form and if they are not prepped, treated and sealed correctly, I can see the wrap acting as more of a moisture trap. Remember, as has been said before, these trucks rust from the inside out at least with paint you can see what’s happening and where a problem area may be developing. Just my .02

I run a magnaflow stainless spun cat and magnaflow muffler and am happy with the sound. Not very harsh at all. Also ran a Gibson mwr muffler and liked it also, more so than the magnaflow. To me a straight 6 sounds best on about a 20” glass pack with 2.25 or 2.5 tubing. The flow masters, magnaflows, Gibson’s and the like sound better on that off-beat non balanced V8 sound but a straight 6 has a totally different sound. Very balanced and smooth. I like to pursue the sound of performance straight 6’s instead like European cars. It doesn’t sound “ricer” by any means but a glass pack really adds some depth and brings out that straight 6 sound. Headers, downpipe and even tips all contribute to the sound also.

If you can slip it loose there is some exhaust putty that will seal that up well. I’d throw a clamp on it also as was shown while the putty/epoxy is curing. Either that or get out the old hot metal glue gun a weld it up. Exhaust shop shouldn’t charge more than 20-30 for a simple weld fix like that

Yeah not sure what the end product will look like but the idea is interesting. If he can’t complete it I bet someone on here could

Personally I’d prefer to have a tachometer over the large fuel gauge but if your looking for one like the picture, it’s out of a police package XJ.

Dakota digital and several others will make a cable drive to electric speedometer “box” but you could also just swap to the later model vss and install it on you transfer case. There is a 2 wire and a 3 wire unit and in all reality either one will work but will be a bit of a wiring project. The Dakota digital box will let you fine tune your speedometer to calibrate for tire size so your speedometer can be dead on.

Interesting concept if it’s well executed. I could see how JK lights may look decent on an MJ: https://www.etsy.com/listing/813067015/jk-tailights-to-mj-conversion-brackets?ref=cart

@Red Mistress Has a NOS Comanche specific full console for you. The MJ specific has a block off for the ebrake and a blank ashtray for the rear seat. And I believe it matches your interior. I will safely say that you will never come across another one of these. You can get the two brackets on eBay or out of any xj

Yeah I think your right. The police package XJs used that font on their “calibrated” speedometer for quite a while

i think 89 was the last year for the old style knuckles. 90+ should be the same brakes I believe.

I don’t really understand the hype with the csf radiators. I got mine from 1800radiator. It’s all aluminum and the build quality is great with zero issues. If I didn’t already have this radiator I’d go with the mishimoto or griffin