ghetdjc320

Just heard back from Mark, it’s musical horns...

I would not silicone them. They should not be leaking since the tubes are pressed in. Those welds simply aid in tube retention but they are not holes that go all the way through the axle tube and should never be the source of a leak. You could seal the tubes inside the pumpkin but use the “right stuff” or similar

I haven’t heard of many d44’s though spinning their tubes. Has anyone had any experience with that happening on a 44?

Seen too many people installing 8.8s welding the case spreader holes thinking they are rosette weld holes 😂. I always use rosette welds when working with links and threaded inserts also in addition to welding the actual flange/joint and they hold very well.

I’ve also welded it cold in short bursts with lots of cool down in between with good results but I think heating it up as suggested is probably the better way to go.

I asked Mark at J and W Jeep to give us a closeup shot

I’d bet that it’s someone’s old car phone they retrofit.

Perhaps you didn’t count the buttons. Let’s try this: 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,0,*,#, A,b,c,d??? That’s the layout of a standard dtmf phone dialer keypad. Still can’t say for sure that’s what it is but it’s a good possibility imho.

Car phones were an option on Comanches since 86:

You can reference this photo. The red x is not a plug weld. It’s hard to see for sure but it looks like this housing does have some plug weld provisions (highlighted in the green circles)

People refer to the two round holes in the housing near the axle tubes as “plug weld” holes. Many have indeed plug welded that hole but that is where a case spreader would normally go. Not many d44s have an axle tube spinning problem like the 8.8s. You can still weld the tubes if you like if you can get a good weld on the pumpkin to tube area. I would recommend though that you don’t use the case spreader holes and fill them up with “plug welds”.

Looks like a dial pad for an old car phone setup which was an option for MJs. Just a guess though.

That information is just not helpful. You don’t know what, pistons, con rods, crank or bearings come with it if any. You have no way of calculating compression, fuel needs, quench or any other useful metric. I agree with the other suggestions here. Just rebuild it as a 4.0

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=ruffstuff&Product_Code=UB275&Category_Code=U-BOLTS These should work fine but measure your axle tube diameter where the springs bolt on.

I’d just grab some new ones from ruffstuffspecialties. Dana 35 and Jeep Dana 44 axle tubes are often the same size depending on the year. U bolt plates should be very close. A bit of filing or grinding should get them to fit

There have been many on here who have created custom leaf packs. The most common leaves I have seen mixed into an mj leaf pack is xj and explorer leaves. What are you trying to accomplish? Do you want more lift or just load capacity?

Great suggestion, I’ve used the same and it works great.

He says October for the obd1-2 adapter. The idea is that we can pickup an obd 2 computer for a 4.0 and throw it in our 91-92 mjs then tune it with HP tuners. The total cost for the electronics would make me go with mega squirt instead. Not a fan of his welded tube turbo manifold either. The boostwerks one is cast and is on sale now too for less than 400. Also don’t like the internal wastegate on the turbo. I’d grab the boostwerks manifold, a decent eBay turbo that is the right size for your needs, an eBay 90* v band downpipe with o2 bungs and a frozen boost intercooler. The picture below is what I’m planning to base my design on. It’s a very clean install for a turbo:

I use all data diy for my electrical diagrams and connector pinouts

We’ve had a slight delay from our vinyl cutters since they have been shut down for about a week and will be closed until April 14th at least. I’m looking into using another shop but would much prefer to work with them locally vs shipping some in

That’s a tough one but also doable I suppose.

I think the other one is the power trax grip pro

Worn lsd will just mean an open diff. The oem clutch style lsd never was a great traction adder off-road anyways. Other thing to check out is that the axle is straight.

These things are like mining for bitcoins. About 2 solid days of non-stop deep searching will usually result in a single tail light.

This topic has come up a lot in the last coupe of weeks. They don’t fit without body work.