ghetdjc320

The cheapest thing to do is get your electrical diagrams out and find the problem.

I use a hot knife and melt the plastic back together.

Perfect! I’ll get to work on these. I’ll try to send over a draft so I can get everyone’s input on quality. Thanks!

Awesome! Can you give me a vertical measurement and also spacing between switches? Thanks!

I have the switch panels but don’t have access to them right now since my MJ is getting a full paint and body work job done. I’ll have it back in about 2 weeks so I can get the dimensions myself if needed. Just wanted to start working on it in the mean time. I should be able to create any option available if you can send me the pictures of the symbol needed. All of our MJs have the same 4 switch pods so it should be a fairly easy process to make for any of them. My only challenge was finding the right material but I have it narrowed down to a couple now. Will see which works best

Thanks! Need the width, height, distance from the top to the switch opening, distance from the top to the illuminated symbol, spacing between the switches. Basically everything that would be needed to recreated it on a piece of paper to scale. I have a couple of different plastic films I was planning to try to get the texture right. Its seems like the original is a semi translucent this sheet of flexible plastic that is painted black on the back side and uses a stencil for the symbol. Thanks for your help with this project!

Sounds good. Just need to get the dimensions so I can get to work on them

Anyone available to run out to their dash with a good tape measure or digital calipers?

Thanks for that pic! That switch was the topic of much speculation and was as rare as hens teeth it seems. Once I finally saw a picture I new I wanted to get that remade somehow

To be clear, I am planning to recreate just the thin plastic overlay that has the switch icons and the on/off symbols. If anyone is interested any getting one please let me know. I plan on recreating the oem fog & cargo light to the left of the column and the transmission and sport bar lights to the right of the column. According to my research the sport bar lights has the icon shown below and is not the same icon as the fog lights

I’m working on recreating the dash bezel overlay for different switch options. As we all know, the cargo light and sport bar light options are almost impossible to find in good condition. I am wanting to see if someone can measure all the dimensions for the switch (see picture below). Need to identify overall dimensions, switch location and backlight location. The plan is to recreate them identically to the original with functional backlit logos for the different functions. My MJ is in the paint shop so I don’t have access to my switch panel.

There is one company I found that still makes the sports bars but they are mounted to the bed floor and not the wheel wells like the original ones. Was thinking of having one made here locally if someone can get me dimensions.

x3 I’ve been looking for one for ever.

Here is my build info as posted by @eaglescout526

Mine came standard with a floor shifter. Have seen many others with them too. Mine is an aw4

My MJ has a floor shifter for the aw4. What years were they column shifters?

True, but the intake at least lines up.

Somone had a renix engine in my 91 MJ eliminator when I bought it. It was just the block and head that were renix but it was running on the HO components. I know the renix intake manifold technically fits the HO head but it does not match up like it should and just installing the renix gasket doesn’t make up for the difference.

I swapped in a 96 XJ block which was the first year it was updated for “noise vibration and harshness”. It has more internal webbing along with a girdle for the crank mains. It was an obd2 engine but I didn’t reuse any of the electronics. I just wanted the block. Easy swap. My post was not intended to discourage you from swapping, you just need to know the WJ block doesn’t fit.

Are you referring to the load sensing valve over the rear axle? There is a distribution block on an mj but no proportioning valve under the hood

The 99 grand Cherokee is a WJ and I don’t believe it swap easily. Aside from physically mounting it you will have to address electronics. 99+ are coil pack engines iirc. Renix intake manifold won’t fit either. It is also an obd2 engine. Nothing’s impossible but it’s far from a bolt in swap.

Cool, that’s a nice kit! I have also been eyeing their electric e brake caliper

kit shows it’s the d154 2 piston calipers. How did you get the 4’s? https://www.wilwood.com/brakekits/brakekitsprodrear?itemno=140-12567-dr&year=1999&make=jeep&model=wrangler&option=dana+35+rear+w/o+abs

Wilwood front and rear are approx 1700 and will be 4 piston fronts and 2 piston rears. Blaine at black magic brakes has the rear d35/44 disk kit for like $425 right now with free shipping. I’ve not noticed better stopping power with just switching from drum to disks. However, the advantages of a self cleaning system that does much better at dispersing heat is what I am looking for. Easier to service as well. To me, the little single piston calipers on 11” disks are just not that big of a difference when for $300 more I could have the wilwood 12+” rotors with dual piston setups. And yes, I would want to do the fronts as well down the road. For now though, I am looking into doing an electric brake booster setup. The mustang rotors and srt8 calipers are a nice combo but will require spacers and likely the master cylinder may need to be bumped up to 1.25 bore for those 6 piston calipers depending on the bore size. If I had a hydroboost or electric booster setup than I could probably get away with the zj style disks in the rear. My ideal setup though would run the wilwoods and hydroboost/electric booster. Right now I have a 8” dual diaphragm booster with a 1.125 bore. My cam doesn’t give me much vacuum to work with though.

I’m running a built 4.0 and with 4.56 gearing towing a 1 boat/trailer around through the hills I want better brakes. I used to run hydroboost with wilwood brakes on my YJ and that is the sort of breaking I am looking for in my MJ someday.