ghetdjc320

The Mopar unit is significantly better than the aftermarket ones. Dorman and SKF both make one also. The Mopar ones used to be on rock auto but like $45 for a while

Throw Subaru into the mix. They have some safe, reliable cars that you can still do a fair amount with. The forester is a nice all around vehicle

I ran straight 30 weight conventional oil in my 231. Had very good results. That was in the tropics though with consistent high temps year round. It did quiet down the case a bit over atf. Worked great for me

Just managed to finish up my first stateside panel. If anyone needs one let me know. Will be building one for myself here also. The AC decks I can do on a core swap, outright purchase or rebuild yours and return. For non ac decks, I will rebuilt yours as long as the face panel is not too severely damaged. For those that send me their original panels, I will try to restore and preserve as many original parts as possible on your unit.

Got the first batch of parts back from blasting yesterday. Also got the air lockers in. Had a chance to crack open the RX-173 radio as well. The layout inside is surprisingly simple. Will be replacing the panel lighting and button foam (need to source the foam still). Also going to add a Bluetooth 5.0 receiver unit. I’m going to try to keep the Bluetooth board inside the radio and use a small external Bluetooth antenna. It really looks like there would even be room for an amplifier board inside with the tape deck removed but I’ll keep that external. Instead of the two existing pins for the aux input as described by Jeremy (much thanks @Minuit for your detailed information on these units), I’m planning on intercepting the radio signal. As has been mentioned before, the radio will bleed through somewhat when unsing the board pins input. Instead I will intercept the 3 pin radio connector to the pre-amp module and establish a pass through circuit that prioritizes the Bluetooth signal. So with the radio powered on and Bluetooth either paused or disconnected, it should play radio as normal. With the Bluetooth signal active, it should completely disconnect the radio signal from the preamp. Hopefully this will eliminate bleed through. The Bluetooth module is also programable via laptop and the EQ can be tuned, hopefully to achieve a good flat response. Also going to add the same finish coating to the buttons as I do to the hvac and switch bezels to prolong the finish as the ones I have are not worn and are in good shape.

@FT-Comanche sent you a PM.

Yes it is

Managed to find a set of 98 ZJ 5.9 hood vents. Will see if they arrive. The seller removed the listing right after buying them.

The factory skid’s ramped design deflect debris better than the boostwerks setup. Plus it ads a clean finished look to the underside. My lift is only coming from the Acos pro setup so the skid will help cover the steering linkage, stabilizer, uca mounts etc.

Can’t say that’s the exact smell as I ripped that carpet out several months ago now but it was a persistent chemical smell that was quite strong. Took about an hour to clean up all the rubber crumb it left behind also.

I have used both the Essex and the cut pile from acc. They are both nice. The Essex is a bit more comfy and quieter. Just do not get the mass backing. Terrible junk that crumbles apart and perpetually smells like some chemical compound when it’s warm.

Mishimoto hands down. Worth the money. Also, a 7 blade mech fan and the 10 blade curved oem late model XJ fan. If the system is clean, it will eliminate heating issues on a hood engine. Novak also makes a very heavy duty unit. Another option is cold case. Slightly cheaper than mishimoto but a very similar design.

HP non disco 30 all stripped down to bare housing and brackets. U joint caps were busted and the ball joints were quite stuck but it all came free in the end. Housing, axle shaft yoke ears and pre-90 knuckles all heading to the media blasters to get cleaned up. Picked up some inner c reinforcements along with some bracketry gussets for the LCA mounts and the UCA on the tube. New spicer ball joints on the way.

Have a set of ARB’s on their way also for the front and rear. Also picked up an NP242. Thinking of doing the Tom woods sye on that tcase since it’s quite a strength upgrade. Have to modify driveshaft lengths anyways so might as well switch to some better built CV shafts. After considering different ride height options, I’m planning to go with the ACOS Pro. The pro model has a gas charged bump stop which will be very helpful and help dial in the LCG build. The plan is Acos pro up front set to about 1.5” lift on the original 4x4 eliminator coils. Some fox remote reservoir shocks up front and the BFG AT 31’s on the refurbished turbines. Out back I’ll run a JKS shackle which is just slightly longer than the oem shackle. This will accommodate for the 1/4” clearance loss from the larger diameter axle tube. I went with the Barnes SUA swap kit since it uses a square u bolt and keep the fasteners and plate on top if the axle while running sua. I may possibly add an additional leaf to the pack just for axle wrap resistance if I can find a good leaf set to grab one from. Don’t really plan to add more than an inch max to the rear. I plan to keep a tiny bit of factory rake. The adjustability of the Acos will help a lot with that. Still need to sort out control arms as well. Will probably run the Currie anti rock sway bar up front so I can clear the pillow bearing for the boostwerks hidden winch/steering brace setup without using sway bar drop brackets. This is all going to go under a factory front skid plate so it’s going to be some trick fab.

Yeah, the axle tubes and pumpkin are pretty clean but the knuckles are rough. I have a set of pre-90 knuckles going on this along with my big brake setup. Taking the housing down to blast today.

Stripped down the HP30 today. Plenty of rusted bolts to get loose. also got in some frame reinforcement parts. along with door hinge and striker reinforcement plates.

The largest possible brakes that can be fit under a Turbine wheel. Much larger than anything ese on the market. 12.10” rotors and dual piston calipers:

I saw this picture in a post recently and saved it since it appears the poster replaced the back pans with something from Key Parts. Likely XJ floor pans cut down but the OP would be the one to ask:

How fast is is fluctuating? Is the gauge fluttering? Often times I would see the gauge drop down when accelerating after a a short time idling.

Awesome, thanks!

Bump. Still in need of a good tailgate

Depends on the year of the axle for the pinion yoke size

The tailgate on my mj is borderline unusable. It’s been almost destroyed by the PO. Needing nice clean and straight tailgate for my build. It will go to a good home for sure. Let me know what you have. Thanks

Quick Draw bellhousing conversion kit in along with clutch kit. This is a super nice setup for an ax15 to LS conversion. This uses the Jeep external slave cylinder, throw out bearing and fork with the GM LS truck style clutch and flywheel. @Limeyjeeper

And, axles have arrived. 3.55 HP 30 and 3.55 8.25 with disks.