ghetdjc320

For u joint size, it just depends what size yokes your using. SYE’s are typically 1310 but can be 1350 same goes for axle yikes. Heck you can every have a 1350 to 1310 u joint. As for the pinion angle you can use shims but you’ll have to change the center pin on your leaf pack so the shim gets bolted to it. Stay clear of shim packs that don’t have a countersunk shoulder for the through bolt. You’ll see what I mean when you research shims. It is easier/better to just reset your perches unless that’s too much work. As Pete mentioned on his post, the pinion needs to point towards the new tcase output. I would imagine an sye will almost be a necessity on more than a 2” lift or so given the driveshaft will be much shorter using a doubler. More like a wrangler driveshaft. For the SYE I’ll still strongly recommend going with the JB conversions kit. It’s a much better design than almost anything else I’ve come across. Here is some suggested reading material for driveshafts and sye’s: https://4xshaft.com/blogs/general-tech-info-articles/driveshaft-angles & http://jbconversions.com/products/sye/np231j_std_sye.php

Sounds good

If you do an SYE, you will use a CV style. 1310/50 will depend on the yokes on each end. Remember too that you will need to angle your pinion about 1-2* below the transfer case output.

Man it would be neat to make a backlit panel for these holders

That’s exactly what I was thinking. That’s less rust then they came with from the factory!

They are on their way! Picked up an extra center cap so I can choose the best of the bunch

He’s running a LP D44 waggy front iirc.

Very true, I’ve popped many a u joint out on the trail. Better that than the ring and pinion though! It’s good to have a “fuse”

I power washed all the components on mine. A worthwhile upgrade (albeit, requiring some modification) is to fit the 97+ XJ plate and fin evaporator to delete the tube and fin factory unit. Goo gone will remove the old adhesive fairly well. Take your time to make sure all the clamshell housing is realigned properly and we’ll sealed or you’ll have air leaks. My AC was like a new car after all that work. Well worth the effort. I’ll be tackling this again soon on my new build.

Those that run on a dodge have wide chains, sprockets/gears and 6 pinion planetaries. Are you going to run the Chevy or dodge versions or the Jeep version?

I ran a t18 with np205. Cranking heavy combo. Your going to need to sort out a stouter crossmember just trying to double a 231 which ways considerably less. Just something to consider. I would assume you’ll also need to rework the trans tunnel a bit or else clock it down a ways. You’ll also need to extend the front driveshaft or get a new one and work out shifter linkages. It also makes it more difficult to brake as you’re multiplying the torque significantly and low speed braking is used heavily while crawling. Crunching some number here: ax15, 4.56, np231 (2.72:1) running 33’s puts you at a crawl ratio of 47.50:1. Running (2) np231’s puts you at 129:1 Stock was about 32:1. For comparison, a stock TJ Rubicon was about 63:1. It should be noted also that the np205 only has a 1.96:1 low range. If your goal is to not stall off-road then you might consider a hand throttle mounted to the shifter. That’s what many rock rigs run. That and/or an automatic tranny. I love driving manual but automatics are great fun off-road also. The torque converter acts as an almost infinitely variable first gear.

I ran both Tom woods (4xshaft.com) and adams driveshaft. Both are top notch

Ok, I’d recommend you get some input from others here also. The sye is a great upgrade. Get the one from JB conversions, best I’ve ever used. I’ll throw this out there for whatever it’s worth, that doubler is going to cost you a lot of headache and expense. Sell the extra 231, run 4:1 teralow gears, a 241OR from a rubicon or deeper gearing. All will be a lot less trouble than running that doubler. You will likely be just fine running the stock 2.7:1 ratio and your ax15. I drove that combo on 4.56’s and 35’s all over the wheeling world stateside with no issues and never wanted a lower gear. With a doubler you may find the low gear miserably low. Also, the 4.0 does good at low rpm. A doubler can also really increase the torque going into that D44 rear and easily exceed the input torque rating. Again, just my $.02 and maybe worth even less

It’s an upgrade for sure. Stronger main shaft and a sealed-off yoke are worth it imho. May i ask though, why a doubler? That will give you an extreme granny gear but do you have an actual use for it? That’s usually something that full size trucks on 40+” tires use when they have a couple of extra NP205’s laying around.

Looks good! When you say you got the 3” GS military wrap spring, are you referring to a taller “free arch”? Also what size are your tires. Regarding the GS springs, the standard 5 leaf has 1” less free arch compared to the 4 leaf model. So was that a special request? If so, what’s the free arch? I would imagine that both the 4 leaf and 5 leaf models should provide very similar lift provided they have the same free arch since the 5 leaf just has an extra overload which shouldn’t effect lift.

In reviewing the options for my next build, I’ve been thoroughly reviewing the current options for full replacement springs (no add a leaf setups). I’ve used the 4 leaf General Spring setup in the past SOA and it added a good 2-3” over a regular soa with used 4wd 4 leafs. So what results have you had? Looking for pictures especially if you have them. General Spring, Hells Creek, 4 leaf, 5 leaf, military wrap etc. Personally I’m looking for about 2” rear 3” front lift to help soften the factory rake but not level the truck.

Since I have the wheels coming in already, I’m fairly committed to either a 30x9.5 or a 31x10.5 tire. Going with the BFG AT KO2’s as those performed exceedingly well on my other Jeeps. Great in rocks and very nice on the road even when wet. Still sorting out engine, steering, suspension and brakes. Going to get through all of Cruisers tips first. Also ordered up a set of Jeep Cables for power and ground refreshing.

I’ve been trying to reach out to the owner several times now through email and calls to no avail. They really make the best overall unit since it comes with the plate for the pillow bearing support to the steering gear box output. Really tightens up the front end nicely. I’m hoping he replies one of these days or I’ll be looking for an alternative. May have to end up fabricating one using the Iron Man steering brace system.

So I just picked up a full set of refurbished Turbine wheels and some center caps in excellent shape. Pulled the trigger on quite a few parts over the last few days. This will be a driver and maybe an occasional weekend warrior. Looking to keep the overall weight down on this one though so every chance I get to save some weight I’m going to go for. Will be getting started in the next couple of months.

That’s a nice option. You can also use a heat gun, blow torch or similar to ever so slightly “flame kiss” the plastic. It may sound odd but works well. Finally, @Dzimm was making replacement switch covers. Not sure if they are available yet or not though. I’m guessing that tail light housings has become the priority for now. For the heat technique, there are a few YouTube videos of how to do that. Very common on guys with TJ flares

I’ve used ceramic coating on them and it works great. Just take your time sanding and polishing the surface until it’s perfect then hit it with the ceramic coating. The ceramic does add a nice layer of UV protection.

I’ve been running bilstein 5125s on several rigs now and, although they do have nice longevity, they really don’t offer good valving for our truck off the shelf. 255/70 valving up front has been brutally tough even with a heavy bumper and winch setup with a 4.0. Id suggest checking with accutune for some custom valved units. They cost very little over an off the shelf bilstein or fox but will be made for your rig. They’ll ask for your extended/collapsed as well as mounting type on each end.

I have a 90 MJ I'm working on now. Ready for a trailer light adapter!

Put me down for a hitch!

Getting ready to fully restore my 1991 Eliminator and am collecting parts. Please let me know if you have something else not on my list that you think I could use. Always interested to see what’s out there. 1. SWB Sports Bar 2. Factory skid plates 3. oem fog light covers (already found a set of original fog lights) 4. Grey dash in good shape 5. Eliminator or Turbine rims 6. Grey steering whee with the rivet style horn button 8. 1991-1993 cross cab harness for power windows/locks 9. Any rare or unique factory options you may have lying around collecting dust like a hidden winch kit etc.