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So, is the truetrac used and your trying to change gears? Or did you need to pull off new bearing off of a new carrier

Lol, yep your right. I was thinking of the regular bearing pullers. East coast gear supply rents them but keep in mind that most shops don’t even have this tool.

Thanks for sharing that update

There are a couple of bolt on kits for the XJ/MJ d44. G2 makes one with the appropriate concentric ring and spacer setup you need. The d35/44 brake kits that use the newer backing plate from Crown will fit the axle flange pattern as well. In regards to the front, in 1990 Jeep changed the knuckles to a floating caliper design. I’ve used both oem systems extensively and it is easier to change the pads on the newer design. That being said, the knuckles you have on an 89 and earlier xj/mj d30 allow for the installation of the Wilwood big brake kit. This is a 4 piston caliper with just over a 12” rotor. Loads more stopping power as there is more pad contact area and a more even clamping force.

Clamshell pullers are not what you need. Are you working on a used truetrac or did you install the bearings and now need to remove and adjust shims? The tool you need for carrier and pinion is this one: https://www.revolutiongear.com/product/bearing_puller If you manage to use a clamshell puller, at the very least it ruins the bearing. If you need to install and remove bearings to set your backlash, preload etc, then garb a pair of old bearings and use a dremel or similar to grind the ID of that bearing out just enough that they slide on and off. You create what is know as a “setup bearing” that way. Makes adjustments far easier.

Thanks for the tag. The info center is one filter I hadn’t done any work on yet. No immediate plans to at the moment due to a major move

This is a waggy axle right? What year?

If the carrier fell out then it wouldn’t have had any preload as mentioned above. It should have a few thousandths of preload to keep tolerances tight and within spec. You should be able to remove it though without a case spreader (though it’s tough to get much preload without one). Keep some preload on the carrier using a prybar (careful not to damage the cover mating surface) while rotating the carrier using the ring bolt as described above. It’s going to take some elbow grease. When you cracked open the diff, was it full of oil?

Yep, same stitching. My 91 also had them.

These are from my 90 eiminator

Interior: I have some of the hard to find NOS parts like the factory 2dr power switches and so forth but need to find some good black interior door panels, center console and dash. I much prefer the 97+ center console as long as I can build some sort of filler for the last section where it meets the dash. Also going to swap to the later style XJ glass to eliminate the fixed vent window. May just end up going with a 97+ interior swap but not sure yet. Also pretty set on some leather wrapped recaro adjustable cruiser style seats. Front and rear speakers will be 5.25 Morel components on a factory head unit with an Audio Control amp. May also go with some 6.5” subs in the doors or B pillars if I have time. I don’t really want anything intruding into what little cab space there is. Engine/Tranny: Russ Pottenger is quoting me a full stroker setup. Will update when I have that locked down. Will reuse my AX15 but replace the clutch with a Luk HD unit along with an external slave bellhousing setup. Axles, suspension, brakes: Plan on just a 2-3” lift using Acos and some ome coils. Will run the GS rear 4 or 5 leaf packs. Plan to reduce the factory rake but will still keep about an inch of forward rake. The Acos will help dial that in. The D30 front will likely remain by get an ARB and chromo axles from Revolution. Rear is TBD. Shooting for a 44 rear if I can sort out getting one shipped otherwise I may just go for another Super 35 as they have been incredibly tough little axles and I am keeping a close eye on weight for this build. Steering will likely be the Currie setup and planning on Savvy for the control arms (aluminum). Wheels/Tires Handling and performance are the top priorities of this build. I do intend to run occasionally as a weekend warrior but any hardcore wheeling capabilities will be secondary.

How do you like the toolbox? It is currently an $800 option so I’m debating cost over functionality. Would you buy it again with or without box?

Yeah so, if all your looking for is a full cluster with the red accents, grab a full cluster from a late mode Renix. All you need to swap is your temp sender and possibly oil pres??? It’s a mechanical speedo

Gathering more inspiration. I do prefer the 97+ front end look. Been doing plenty of research on everyone else’s builds. Power, style and creature comforts are the theme here. Have drawn some inspiration from some of the following rigs. @Limeyjeeper now I absolutely must have the truck covers usa cover lol.

On my 90 eliminator, I have the red face gauges from the factory. Why not just use that style cluster?

If you currently have the idiot light on a pre HO and would like to swap in an all electric dash, you will need to change out your temp sensor in the head to a gauge style unit. You’ll also need a vss or speed sensor in your tcase if 4wd or tranny if 2wd. Personally, i only use the 94+ vss with the short speed gears. You will need to feed it with between 5-8vdc though for the hall effect sensor to work. You’ll need to run a line to your new speedo from the vss to feed it the speed pulse signal. I believe the fuel sensor resistance changed as well on the HO models so there may be some issues there.

Take some pics along the way and let us know how it goes.

You shouldn’t have a crush sleeve on that waggy axle. Just shims. A crush sleeve is a substitute for shims on some axles for the pinion gear. Low pinion Dana 30’s had those. Iirc the waggy axle is just shims for the pinion depth and preload.

Why not just grab some shims from your local auto parts store? A master install kit should always come with shims. Sounds like they may have been missing.

Yeah, I suppose the key parts lenses are better than nothing but they did not build a complete product. It’s not like the lenses just screw in place. I also tried the heat method then tried soaking them in solution for about a week. Nothing broke that adhesive but soaking did make it better. Until new back housings can be had, soaking them with some mild dish soap and water is at least somewhat helpful. Make sure to fill the inside of the housings as well with the solution. Problem also is that most of the original stock housings are also damaged with broken tabs and cracks. 30+ yo plastic

I have a set all cleaned up along with a set of new inserts. I’m out of town though for about 2 weeks. Shoot me a PM if you’re interested

Here are some pics of the new eliminator as it currently sits. Obviously, I did not install the snorkel or apply the 2 tone spray paint lol. Had the carpet removed first thing to make sure no water was getting trapped under it. Currently sits at 90,000 all original miles. It’s nice to finally have another ax15 again also.

Final pic as it drove out of the driveway today

So if you’ve seen my 91 build thread you may already know that I sold my 91 Eliminator today… surreal experience. So this build should be interesting. This rig is low original miles and has a nice solid an 99% rust free body. At this point all ideas are on the table. Going to need to set a budget and come up with some different concepts here. Everything from an LS3 to the stock Renix 4.0. Supercharger, strokers, 2.8 diesel. Parts availability may dictate where this goes to some degree.

The wheels are turning that’s for sure. Stay tuned, should be interesting