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Those that run on a dodge have wide chains, sprockets/gears and 6 pinion planetaries. Are you going to run the Chevy or dodge versions or the Jeep version?

I ran a t18 with np205. Cranking heavy combo. Your going to need to sort out a stouter crossmember just trying to double a 231 which ways considerably less. Just something to consider. I would assume you’ll also need to rework the trans tunnel a bit or else clock it down a ways. You’ll also need to extend the front driveshaft or get a new one and work out shifter linkages. It also makes it more difficult to brake as you’re multiplying the torque significantly and low speed braking is used heavily while crawling. Crunching some number here: ax15, 4.56, np231 (2.72:1) running 33’s puts you at a crawl ratio of 47.50:1. Running (2) np231’s puts you at 129:1 Stock was about 32:1. For comparison, a stock TJ Rubicon was about 63:1. It should be noted also that the np205 only has a 1.96:1 low range. If your goal is to not stall off-road then you might consider a hand throttle mounted to the shifter. That’s what many rock rigs run. That and/or an automatic tranny. I love driving manual but automatics are great fun off-road also. The torque converter acts as an almost infinitely variable first gear.

I ran both Tom woods (4xshaft.com) and adams driveshaft. Both are top notch

Ok, I’d recommend you get some input from others here also. The sye is a great upgrade. Get the one from JB conversions, best I’ve ever used. I’ll throw this out there for whatever it’s worth, that doubler is going to cost you a lot of headache and expense. Sell the extra 231, run 4:1 teralow gears, a 241OR from a rubicon or deeper gearing. All will be a lot less trouble than running that doubler. You will likely be just fine running the stock 2.7:1 ratio and your ax15. I drove that combo on 4.56’s and 35’s all over the wheeling world stateside with no issues and never wanted a lower gear. With a doubler you may find the low gear miserably low. Also, the 4.0 does good at low rpm. A doubler can also really increase the torque going into that D44 rear and easily exceed the input torque rating. Again, just my $.02 and maybe worth even less

It’s an upgrade for sure. Stronger main shaft and a sealed-off yoke are worth it imho. May i ask though, why a doubler? That will give you an extreme granny gear but do you have an actual use for it? That’s usually something that full size trucks on 40+” tires use when they have a couple of extra NP205’s laying around.

Looks good! When you say you got the 3” GS military wrap spring, are you referring to a taller “free arch”? Also what size are your tires. Regarding the GS springs, the standard 5 leaf has 1” less free arch compared to the 4 leaf model. So was that a special request? If so, what’s the free arch? I would imagine that both the 4 leaf and 5 leaf models should provide very similar lift provided they have the same free arch since the 5 leaf just has an extra overload which shouldn’t effect lift.

In reviewing the options for my next build, I’ve been thoroughly reviewing the current options for full replacement springs (no add a leaf setups). I’ve used the 4 leaf General Spring setup in the past SOA and it added a good 2-3” over a regular soa with used 4wd 4 leafs. So what results have you had? Looking for pictures especially if you have them. General Spring, Hells Creek, 4 leaf, 5 leaf, military wrap etc. Personally I’m looking for about 2” rear 3” front lift to help soften the factory rake but not level the truck.

Since I have the wheels coming in already, I’m fairly committed to either a 30x9.5 or a 31x10.5 tire. Going with the BFG AT KO2’s as those performed exceedingly well on my other Jeeps. Great in rocks and very nice on the road even when wet. Still sorting out engine, steering, suspension and brakes. Going to get through all of Cruisers tips first. Also ordered up a set of Jeep Cables for power and ground refreshing.

I’ve been trying to reach out to the owner several times now through email and calls to no avail. They really make the best overall unit since it comes with the plate for the pillow bearing support to the steering gear box output. Really tightens up the front end nicely. I’m hoping he replies one of these days or I’ll be looking for an alternative. May have to end up fabricating one using the Iron Man steering brace system.

So I just picked up a full set of refurbished Turbine wheels and some center caps in excellent shape. Pulled the trigger on quite a few parts over the last few days. This will be a driver and maybe an occasional weekend warrior. Looking to keep the overall weight down on this one though so every chance I get to save some weight I’m going to go for. Will be getting started in the next couple of months.

That’s a nice option. You can also use a heat gun, blow torch or similar to ever so slightly “flame kiss” the plastic. It may sound odd but works well. Finally, @Dzimm was making replacement switch covers. Not sure if they are available yet or not though. I’m guessing that tail light housings has become the priority for now. For the heat technique, there are a few YouTube videos of how to do that. Very common on guys with TJ flares

I’ve used ceramic coating on them and it works great. Just take your time sanding and polishing the surface until it’s perfect then hit it with the ceramic coating. The ceramic does add a nice layer of UV protection.

I’ve been running bilstein 5125s on several rigs now and, although they do have nice longevity, they really don’t offer good valving for our truck off the shelf. 255/70 valving up front has been brutally tough even with a heavy bumper and winch setup with a 4.0. Id suggest checking with accutune for some custom valved units. They cost very little over an off the shelf bilstein or fox but will be made for your rig. They’ll ask for your extended/collapsed as well as mounting type on each end.

I have a 90 MJ I'm working on now. Ready for a trailer light adapter!

Put me down for a hitch!

Getting ready to fully restore my 1991 Eliminator and am collecting parts. Please let me know if you have something else not on my list that you think I could use. Always interested to see what’s out there. 1. SWB Sports Bar 2. Factory skid plates 3. oem fog light covers (already found a set of original fog lights) 4. Grey dash in good shape 5. Eliminator or Turbine rims 6. Grey steering whee with the rivet style horn button 8. 1991-1993 cross cab harness for power windows/locks 9. Any rare or unique factory options you may have lying around collecting dust like a hidden winch kit etc.

So, is the truetrac used and your trying to change gears? Or did you need to pull off new bearing off of a new carrier

Lol, yep your right. I was thinking of the regular bearing pullers. East coast gear supply rents them but keep in mind that most shops don’t even have this tool.

Thanks for sharing that update

There are a couple of bolt on kits for the XJ/MJ d44. G2 makes one with the appropriate concentric ring and spacer setup you need. The d35/44 brake kits that use the newer backing plate from Crown will fit the axle flange pattern as well. In regards to the front, in 1990 Jeep changed the knuckles to a floating caliper design. I’ve used both oem systems extensively and it is easier to change the pads on the newer design. That being said, the knuckles you have on an 89 and earlier xj/mj d30 allow for the installation of the Wilwood big brake kit. This is a 4 piston caliper with just over a 12” rotor. Loads more stopping power as there is more pad contact area and a more even clamping force.

Clamshell pullers are not what you need. Are you working on a used truetrac or did you install the bearings and now need to remove and adjust shims? The tool you need for carrier and pinion is this one: https://www.revolutiongear.com/product/bearing_puller If you manage to use a clamshell puller, at the very least it ruins the bearing. If you need to install and remove bearings to set your backlash, preload etc, then garb a pair of old bearings and use a dremel or similar to grind the ID of that bearing out just enough that they slide on and off. You create what is know as a “setup bearing” that way. Makes adjustments far easier.

Thanks for the tag. The info center is one filter I hadn’t done any work on yet. No immediate plans to at the moment due to a major move

This is a waggy axle right? What year?

If the carrier fell out then it wouldn’t have had any preload as mentioned above. It should have a few thousandths of preload to keep tolerances tight and within spec. You should be able to remove it though without a case spreader (though it’s tough to get much preload without one). Keep some preload on the carrier using a prybar (careful not to damage the cover mating surface) while rotating the carrier using the ring bolt as described above. It’s going to take some elbow grease. When you cracked open the diff, was it full of oil?

Yep, same stitching. My 91 also had them.