ghetdjc320

Agreed. I was watching the manufacturer videos on that locker and they look quite problematic. A simple Aussie locker would work well also

You could also use the same style crimp connector that’s on the cable side of that pic:

I believe it is. Made by Eaton probably to GM spec. It reminds me a bit of the Auburn lockers. Still uses clutch packs.

A D44 from an MJ if you can find one is an easy swap especially if you will use a spring under axle configuration since the spring perches will be in the correct position. It’s the right width and lug pattern out of the box and bolts right in. In stock form it’s considered generally good for up to 35” tires. The 97 and later 8.25 or the liberty 8.25 is also a nice axle. I personally would never run another ford 8.8 axle unless it was free. And I’ve built many of them in the past.

The easiest bolt on kit is actually a supercharger. There are some nice kits here: https://www.boostedtech.com/solution-category/jeep-wrangler/ Turbos are great also but require more fab work due to the plumbing work they require and are hard to find as a kit for 4.0’s

The 7th picture is a set of rca cables probably for an aftermarket sub or amplifier. I can confirm all the rest of the answers here are correct as well on the other wiring plugs.

The D30 carrier break is 3.73 and numerically higher. I’m 100% positive on that.

Looking good

i believe the comp springs have almost the same installed height but the spring itself is thicker so a narrower seat ID is required. The Mopar springs are drop in though. That comp cam hasn’t been released yet but should be soon. It’s not really the ideal low end cam your looking for though. @Eagle is right. You need more of an RV style cam

Here is that listing:

Much more likely the block. There are some pictures floating around in here if the block cut in half to show the passages and they are super small. They could easily get clogged.

There are a couple of MJ 44’s available in the classifieds section. One is in CA and is $500.

I’d agree with that also since your going to be welding in new purchases anyway. Just make sure to get the right size u bolts, plates and perches for your axle diameter.

That’s a good point. Are you running just the stock distribution block then? If so, you may have some blockage there as those passages get mighty small.

Sounds like maybe some debris in one of the prop valve passages. Was there any notable flow restriction once you bled out the front lines? Is the RF braking at all?

The camshaft should have nothing to do with modifying the seats. That’s just the valve springs that are used that may require a specific installed height or a narrower ID to accommodate for a thicker spring wire. There are several off the shelf options for aftermarket springs (see latest in-stock Mopar offerings at the bottom of this post). Good stock springs are good for about .44 lift on the cam with regular 1.6 rocker arms. I personally prefer the stock renix-95’ cam with some 1.7 roller rockers. The Mopar purple cams were nice too. Good vacuum and full width cam lobes instead of those little narrow ones found on most aftermarket cams. Comp just came out with some new 4.0 cams though also: https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-4x4-197-201-hydraulic-cam-for-jeep-40l-1964-98-cpg.html That cam is very similar to the original Mopar 229 cam. You could possibly get away with stock springs depending on the valve weight. If you do need valve spring for a higher lift and don’t want to machine the seats to use LS or comp springs than use these: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-P5249464

In doing a little more diggin it appears that Dayton spring is also a carrier of the same part number 97-571. They are also a manufacturer so not sure who actually makes these springs

You may be right. I double checked my order placed on 06/2019 and turns out they were shipped out from General Spring. The total for both springs was under $200 for the 4 leaf with shipping. Same part number though as the sd truck springs plus they will beat any price you find online. Maybe I price matched??? It’s been a while ago

The GS are sold each. SD sells the pair

What year is your Dana 35? Most will say it’s not an axle worth sinking any money into. If your not planning on any heavy wheeling though and stick to 33’s or smaller, it can be made to last.

From what I recall, it’s the same part number (571). I don’t believe General Spring sells a non military wrapped 5 leaf pack for the MJ though I may be wrong. There is a bit of confusion here I suppose. The only thing I can comment on is that SD truck springs is where I bought my springs from and they were the same model/sku as the general spring ones. Even the same stock pictures used. They are from some other company though. Searching that sku on SD spring reveals multiple vendors with the same product so there should be some in-stock options unless they are all drop-shipping. I’m almost positive there is a sole manufacturer with various suppliers private labeling the same spring as has been suggested. I believe they are either made in Mexico or Canada. The 4 leaf pack netted me 2.5” without a spare or any weight on my short bed. That’s 2.5” over a decent original 4 leaf 4wd pack. I ran them for about 9 months but they never settled down further. They ran great but I was SOA so the lift was far too tall and the rake was not nice. Sua though would make these a really nice mild lift spring that fills in the much needed gap between stock sua, add a leaf and soa. If I were to venture a guess I’d say the 4 leaf pack is good for a solid 2” once settled on most rigs. The 5 leaf probably 3” but mostly due to load capacity. 1700lb spring capacity is pretty high on a truck the size of an MJ. Then again, it’s great to have such an option. I would venture a speculative guess that the hells creek springs are not actually made solely for the MJ. That would explain the different bushing sizes. There are many forger leaf springs that are similar in size to an MJ pack. Perhaps a cross-reference showed that their product happened to fit an MJ??? Not sure

Hood finished up. Will cut and polish the whole truck in another week after the clear cures further.

@Rubikahn https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=20914&zenid=fe33951a046bdaa2f37c2e613d256012 Looks like they are on sale too. That’s who I ordered mine through. Demand was super high as everyone had some extra cash and time on their hands. Here at least that cycle has reversed. Oversupplied with less consumer buying power. Took some time though. Now there are pallets upon pallets of product at Home Depot they can’t stock on the shelves yet since they are full. Hopefully that happens stateside eventually.

Normally what we do is bolt up the axle and center it on the truck with the perches unwelded. Make sure to set the truck down so the weight will be close to the unloaded running weight. The u bolts will hold everything in place then you can rotate the axle until you get your ideal pinion angle. Then tack weld in place. Pull the axle back out and weld up the brackets. The shock mounts can be done at the same time or later.

I agree. Resale is always a bit hard though when you have a branded title.