ghetdjc320

Manifold can be found at any auto parts place or rock auto amongst others. Dorman 674-170 for the renix setup with the heating port and 674-196 for the HO model without the port Pilot bushing is the 5th one listed here for your application: https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/pilot-bushings/amc-ax15/

I don’t have a pic of it right offhand. Perhaps try searching for XJ manual window regulator and you should find some pics of the complete unit.

The 97 ax15 will fit but will need a pilot bearing for the renix flywheel. The exhaust manifold was redesigned the last few years of the 4.0 and a flex coupler was added which reduces the stress cracks that were very common. There is a doorman part number available for the manifold. Welding it won’t fix it for very long. And the cheap aftermarket headers tend to have the same problems with cracking. I’d go with the updated flex coupler design manifold unless you want to drop some coin on a good aftermarket header. Also, make sure all your exhaust hangers and mounting points are secure so it doesn’t add any undue stress on the manifold.

Placeholder for aftermarket engine control and tuning information.

@eaglescout526

I believe the synergy tie rod connects lower in the drag link and therefore needs the matching drag link. The bigger consideration here is tire size and intended use as has been mentioned.

What is it that is hitting your speaker? The glass or the coil cable? The coil cable should be in a sheath and clip that holds it along the bottom of the door with the end of it facing the back edge of the door.

HP axles are also a stronger design for front axles since they apply their power to the correct side of the ring gear teeth.

Guess it depends on your plans for it. If you plan on keeping it or selling it to a Jeeper than an HP 30 would be a better swap. If it’s to just sell to someone who wants a 4wd truck then yes, the lp will swap in just fine. Just my $.02

Pinion depth looks a touch too deep but you have an pretty even pattern on the power and coast side of the ring teeth. Should be fine. You could shim the carrier over to loosen the backlash slightly.

I’d just put that tj front axle for sale. It’s a low pinion axle and the MJ has a better front axle. You could swap over the axles shafts though from the TJ to the MJ.

That’s it

Only issues I’ve come across with LED’s is the flasher modules which can just be swapped to an led flasher. You can also get an led resistor to simulate the load of an incandescent bulb if needed. I prefer the original look of traditional bulbs but I did add led bulbs to the backup lights.

That’s a nice linkage setup. Been running that for a few months now and it’s a much better shift feel and response. You’ll just need to get the actual floor shifter now. eBay if you can’t grab one at the local yard.

That’s fit looks nice. How is the vertical height of the seat base compared to stock?

Just noticed that the OP never received a response. In general, XJ seat floor brackets are slightly different to MJ brackets because there is an extra floor brace that is not present on an XJ floor pan. This brace raises one of the mounting points for the MJ seats be they bench or bucket. The center console from a 97+ XJ will fit but requires a different rear mounting bracket. It is a nice design and has more functional cup holders and is more durable overall. Note that a 97+ XJ console will leave about a 2-3” gap where it meets the older style dash. @Dzimm I believe is working on some sort of filler plate for that. The door panel I couldn’t tell you for sure but it’s worth noting that there is slight interference with the 97+ xj door panels and the 96- glove box and dash area. It fits but a whole 97+ interior swap looks much cleaner than just doing the door panels.

Checkout my post and @jdog’s.

Azzy Design works make new gauge faces. I can’t ever get them to respond to me for anything custom though. Their stock stuff is ok but custom would be nice

There are two compressing tabs one top and one bottom. Remove the dash bezel and then the switch base. You can press on the tabs and pop it out the front. You may be able to pop it out the front without removing the panels but it’s also quite possible you will brake or damage something in the process.

Yep that’s right

I suppose you could if you could grab an earlier model blue tach and the police Speedo.

I ordered my rear addco bar a few months ago. They still make them new

Yeah I like that clean factory optioned look. I’d use the boostwerks hidden winch setup though with the steering pillow bushing. I can fab that roll bar up easy enough if I don’t find a good used one. I got some oem fog lights already and will keep a keen eye out for a brush guard. I have a set of tow hooks also with brackets.

The 99 console will fit but will have a gap where the old console would meet the dash. I use the newer style console and I think it’s a far better design but you either have to live with the gap or fill it with something. The flywheel should be resurfaced. Typically your local Napa/oreillys can do this if they can turn rotors also. You can drive around without a front driveshaft and just leave the transfer case in 2wd (not neutral) assuming you have the typical NP231. A dana 44 and dana 35 driveshaft lengths are close. About 1” difference so it “may” work but you’ll have to measure to see.

Going to stay oem on this one. Thinking of maybe something like one if these: This is a 90’ eliminator and probably what mine looked like: