ghetdjc320

Anytime!

One of these units coupled with a restored oem radio from @Minuit a fan plug from @schardein and maybe some new switch bezels and your factory dash will be factory new and optioned out.

Here is the first completed panel: @Rubikahn and @GrandComanche You guys have first dibs I’m going to set aside a couple for myself at some point as well. Controls are smooth as butter. The illumination back panel reflectors are hand polished. I tested these with both LED and incandescent “74” style bulbs. Both work very well but I would recommend an LED with a slightly orange glow. That way you get the correct color match to your other accessories but more brightness.

Electronics all disassembled and degreased. Housings were acid stripped to bare metal. All contacts will get a nice polish for the best conductivity before reassembly.

They are fully illuminated yes. I’ll some pictures of the nighttime illumination in the next day or two.

PM coming your way

The factory Indak fan motor switches are being meticulously restored. All previous grease and oxidation is removed, the contact rivets are tightened, pcb boards cleaned, housings stripped and refinished. They are absolutely awesome! Here are some restored panel bezels as well. These have 3 additional coats of the matte factory style finish for extra protection. Buttons are being restored as well including the white striping

By the way, while changing the panel, be sure to inspect and/or swap your fan blower plug. @schardein carries some new plugs and pigtails

Alright, progress has been made at last! I have several panels all stripped down as well as a supply of restored parts and pieces. I have also collected a supply of new fan switches when the original Indak switch is no longer rebuildable. These panels function as new and are completely restored using as many if not all original parts. I will have a couple available by the end of the week but have several more in the works. A complete restored panel is $150 which includes a $25 refundable core charge. If you would like to have your original model restored that service is $125. I take a painstaking amount of time trying to save all the original pieces for these units but on occasion I will use a few small replacement parts such as springs, e clips, screws, contacts etc. Will post some pics of restored units in a few days.

I cut an polished the roof the other day. That paint had been curing for about 3 months now so it ready to go. Went in order starting with 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 3000 grit paper all wet sanded. Finished with 3m trizact single step polish. Ideally I’d cut it to 5000 grit but I have a pretty potent DA that was able to make quick work of the 3000 grit with that polish. Came out great. Next l coated it with Migliore ceramic coating. I used the “Acqua” coating which is made for boats since I had plenty left over from my jet ski. The level of salt spray and rain makes this actually a very good fit for this truck. Stuck the truck under the canopy to let it all cure for 24hrs. Also did the windshield and door windows with rainx after a dawn soap and razor blade treatment. Turned out great. I had forgotten how much better the windshield and wipers perform in the rain with rainx (and similar products).

Those are some nice parts there! Was the 44 out of the chief?

Agreed, that should have been a recall for every MJ parking brake they made. My YJ one was equally terrible. I have had good success modifying the stock units though. Does require a good bit of fab work but holds exceptionally well now.

Keep in mind that there is no difference between an HP and LP D30 carrier. The difference is in the gearset

First off, apologies to the OP for this side topic lol. @Eagle Both Auburn units use clutches and even require limited slip additive. This includes both the open/locked and the lsd/locked models. On the original select a loc (formerly known as the infamous Ected), there is no actual “locking” gear mechanism like you would find on a full case selectable aftermarket locker such as an ARB. The actual “locking” friction comes from the clutch plates. The electromagnet in the original Auburn select a trac is a way of applying extra pressure to the clutch packs on-demand. Here is an explanation directly from Auburn: The center block also applies force to the opposite side gear (6) to compress the clutch pack (7) and provides the vehicle with a solid axle assembly that transfers 100% of the torque to both wheels, Taken from this source: https://auburngeardiffs.com/select-a-loc-ltd-slip-to-lock/ And here is a picture. Notice the large clutch pack (figure 7) that rides just under the spider gear. I have not dug into the Gov-Loc to see exactly how their clutch packs are used but I wonder if it’s not similar in the sense that they increase the pressure on the clutch packs in order to “lock” the diff. Obviously the method of activation is different. Furthermore, the gov-loc isn’t actually a locker in the sense that it requires slip to activate. It’s more like a “very limited slip”. The torque bias after engagement seems to be pretty good though.

It may be a LP D30 but the actual carriers are the same. Only the ring and pinions are different.

Good to know. Hopefully we can get someone to repop the housing so we can have a complete light assembly. And if someone repos the housing, I wouldnt mind some different bulb sockets while they’re at it @Dzimm

Have you checked you heater switch and connector?

Id say that’s a safe assumption. $250-400 for scrap in Arkansas last I was there. That being said, I’m sure many can use different body panels if there are any decent ones left

Ahh that makes sense. Though it was going in an MJ. I would think it should be fine for a car though May have some quirks being used in the front axle.

If the Volvo unit is the Gov-Loc it uses clutches. In that sense it is similar to the original Auburn select-a-loc which used a cone shaped clutch disk setup to “lock”. The fact is that the G80 requires “slip” in order to function. The auburn can be engaged with a switch so no “slip” is required. In that sense the Auburn functions more like a locker (but as a limited slip when the electromagnet is not engaged). Ultimately it looks like both rely on clutch packs to maintain friction “lock” even though that friction is assisted by another device. I’d be curious to know how the Volvo unit works in real world Jeeping scenarios though. I’ve run truetrac’s, aussies and ARB’s and the ARB has been the best so far but comes with quite a price tag and a more complex install. The one drawback I see to the G80 is the way it engages. Seems like a recipe for disaster putting all that stress on those small parts. Maybe if a tire slips on some ice or wet leaves but I can’t image the violent engagement that thing would have if you’re out mudding at high rpm’s. Guess that’s why it won’t engage over 20mph wheel speed. It’s been a few years since I went mudding but I do seem to recall wheel speed was pretty high to keep from getting stuck. In those scenarios it may not even engage. Seems like a unit from a Volvo also wouldn’t be up to the amount of inertia it would be subjected to under a built Jeep out crawling

I installed some of their floor pans and they were some nice products. They’ve been stringing us along for a long time though on taillights. Hopefully these will actually make it to production.

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Haha, if that’s the case, the club deserves its own brewery . Happy to help

That’s a handbrake from a Cherokee. The Comanche should have had a foot brake. The handbrake is a common swap thoug. The only “custom” part of this setup will be from the brake handle to the “equalizer”. From that point you use just stock components