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MYE Jeep

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    Sedona, AZ

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  1. Awesome! Thanks a ton for clarifying. I feel like I ought to buy you a beer one of these days for all your help on all these different posts haha
  2. Thats not a bad idea at all. Still curious whether this is even a Jeep handbrake to begin with, but I guess as long as its working now I don't need to mess with it. Just wondering how it "should" be put together for ease of replacing parts down the road, especially once I get that D44 installed because I know it comes with the lines attached on it.
  3. Here’s the temporary fix I came up with. Bent the rod back and put a little hose clamp on it. We’ll see how long it lasts!
  4. I went to pull the parking brake lever yesterday (Hand brake), and it completely gave out. I believe the PO converted it from a footbrake to handbrake at some point, as I'm not sure if the MJ ever came with a handbrake from the factory, and my Comanche is a melting pot of diversity when it comes to random parts being swapped into it by from other cars by the PO. I crawl underneath, and I can obviously see why its not working, the rod that the cable is normally tied to is bent, and when its pulled the cable pretty much just slips off the rod. I hop on the trusty internet to see if maybe I'm missing a clamp or something that holds it together and I can't find any information, or pictures even of a similar handbrake linkage configuration. My questions are, is this even a Cherokee handbrake? Am I missing a part that holds it together? What the heck is going on under here? Any ideas for a good fix? Thanks!
  5. I actually got in touch with the guy in Santa Cruz that had the D44 listed for sale(The link you sent me). He's working up some shipping quotes for me at the moment and will either be shipping it to me or meeting me in Vegas on his way to Moab! Should be a great setup for me! Probably will have to end up re-gearing it down the line, but will bolt in for the time being so I'm really excited about that! Now I'm just trying to decide on the leaf springs, either the standard or MT, I can't decide haha
  6. Haha thank you so much for clarifying that for me... I'm sitting here going.. "man this is really starting to get complex with all these spline counts". Makes total sense now, the splines are on the axle, not the output shaft of the diff. DUH. I guess I could've crawled under it and found that out really quickly! I've heard the 8.25 and the 8.8 are kinda the way to go with these for best bang for the buck, however as far as drivetrain I'm sort of trying to keep things as original as possible, or atleast "original factory options". So I think I'll probably make the search for a D44, even though its probably the harder and more expensive route lol
  7. Dang! Thanks so much for sharing! from what I’ve gathered the spline count for most D35 rears is 27, and the spline count for the D44 is 30 right? So would a D44 swap require a 30 spline driveshaft as well to complete the swap? Or how does that work?
  8. The Dana 35 in there is likely from a 95 Cherokee. How rare is the MJ D44? Is it worth it to look for one of those instead of swapping to the 8.25?
  9. Perfect! Thanks so much for all of the assistance will this! You guys all seriously rock! Another question, since I'll be pulling out the D35 to do all of this, I'm wondering if it might not be a bad idea to have it rebuilt, and also try to add disc brakes. Has anyone tried using a kit like this or similar to achieve this? https://www.quadratec.com/products/12700_1001.htm
  10. Hmm, okay that makes sense.. but brings up another question, let’s say you angle the u-joint of the axle between 1-3°, all is good in the universe and your driveshaft is a happy camper. Forgive my ignorance, but what measurement dictates where the cradle should be mounted along the axle for the leaf pack to rest on? Should the leaf pack cradle be welded as close to level as possible, while the axle rests within its 1-3° angle? Thanks in advance!
  11. @ghetdjc320 Man you are a wealth of information! Time to get the credit card out! One question I have, as most of the JK/JKU kits I work with are direct bolt on with minor cutting and drilling.. How do you determine the pitch angle of the rear axle when re-welding leaf brackets and shock mounts? Just whatever gives the best angle for the driveshaft? or is there a more scientific and methodical approach to this? Thanks a ton!
  12. As far as rear leafs, it seems most people have been pretty happy with the General Springs, however it looks like there are 2 options on their site, either 1200lb payload or 1700lb payload, then theres talk of a military wrap design? Which of these seems to be the most favorable between the designs for ride quality?
  13. Thanks so much!! I have a little build thread on this page if you want to check it out!
  14. Wow! This was incredibly helpful and insightful! Okay so on my list now: Front: Currie Steering System CE-9701 New Front Track Bar (Ironman 4x4) Do I need to remove the drop bracket currently on from the Rustys kit? Stock Size Pitman Arm Springs (BDS 034301) New shocks (Fox 2.0 maybe?) Tie Rods - Any brand preference here? Rear: Replace Leaf Pack - Brand preferences here? Replace Shocks (matching brand to front) New shackles I'm sure Build or replace D35, and add shock and leaf brackets Hows this sound so far? In addition, I was hoping someone might be able to chime in on why a factory front driveshaft won't fit back in the Comanche? The measured distance is like an inch or two too long to fit based off of the specs I've found. Any idea if this is just because of the 6.5 lift? Maybe after going closer to a 3-4" lift the geometry will line up better? Also in regards to the 4 link setup, since my factory brackets are gone, could I simply use the existing brackets from the Rustys kit? or will all new brackets be needed? Trying to find all the right parts on Ironman 4x4 site but I'm not sure which one comes with all the correct brackets and linkages for the 4 link setup. Thanks a ton guys! I really appreciate you all helping me set up my Comanche to be driveable!
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