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Those are some nice parts there! Was the 44 out of the chief?

Agreed, that should have been a recall for every MJ parking brake they made. My YJ one was equally terrible. I have had good success modifying the stock units though. Does require a good bit of fab work but holds exceptionally well now.

Keep in mind that there is no difference between an HP and LP D30 carrier. The difference is in the gearset

First off, apologies to the OP for this side topic lol. @Eagle Both Auburn units use clutches and even require limited slip additive. This includes both the open/locked and the lsd/locked models. On the original select a loc (formerly known as the infamous Ected), there is no actual “locking” gear mechanism like you would find on a full case selectable aftermarket locker such as an ARB. The actual “locking” friction comes from the clutch plates. The electromagnet in the original Auburn select a trac is a way of applying extra pressure to the clutch packs on-demand. Here is an explanation directly from Auburn: The center block also applies force to the opposite side gear (6) to compress the clutch pack (7) and provides the vehicle with a solid axle assembly that transfers 100% of the torque to both wheels, Taken from this source: https://auburngeardiffs.com/select-a-loc-ltd-slip-to-lock/ And here is a picture. Notice the large clutch pack (figure 7) that rides just under the spider gear. I have not dug into the Gov-Loc to see exactly how their clutch packs are used but I wonder if it’s not similar in the sense that they increase the pressure on the clutch packs in order to “lock” the diff. Obviously the method of activation is different. Furthermore, the gov-loc isn’t actually a locker in the sense that it requires slip to activate. It’s more like a “very limited slip”. The torque bias after engagement seems to be pretty good though.

It may be a LP D30 but the actual carriers are the same. Only the ring and pinions are different.

Good to know. Hopefully we can get someone to repop the housing so we can have a complete light assembly. And if someone repos the housing, I wouldnt mind some different bulb sockets while they’re at it @Dzimm

Have you checked you heater switch and connector?

Id say that’s a safe assumption. $250-400 for scrap in Arkansas last I was there. That being said, I’m sure many can use different body panels if there are any decent ones left

Ahh that makes sense. Though it was going in an MJ. I would think it should be fine for a car though May have some quirks being used in the front axle.

If the Volvo unit is the Gov-Loc it uses clutches. In that sense it is similar to the original Auburn select-a-loc which used a cone shaped clutch disk setup to “lock”. The fact is that the G80 requires “slip” in order to function. The auburn can be engaged with a switch so no “slip” is required. In that sense the Auburn functions more like a locker (but as a limited slip when the electromagnet is not engaged). Ultimately it looks like both rely on clutch packs to maintain friction “lock” even though that friction is assisted by another device. I’d be curious to know how the Volvo unit works in real world Jeeping scenarios though. I’ve run truetrac’s, aussies and ARB’s and the ARB has been the best so far but comes with quite a price tag and a more complex install. The one drawback I see to the G80 is the way it engages. Seems like a recipe for disaster putting all that stress on those small parts. Maybe if a tire slips on some ice or wet leaves but I can’t image the violent engagement that thing would have if you’re out mudding at high rpm’s. Guess that’s why it won’t engage over 20mph wheel speed. It’s been a few years since I went mudding but I do seem to recall wheel speed was pretty high to keep from getting stuck. In those scenarios it may not even engage. Seems like a unit from a Volvo also wouldn’t be up to the amount of inertia it would be subjected to under a built Jeep out crawling

I installed some of their floor pans and they were some nice products. They’ve been stringing us along for a long time though on taillights. Hopefully these will actually make it to production.

Deleted post - Accidentally posted in wrong topic

Haha, if that’s the case, the club deserves its own brewery . Happy to help

That’s a handbrake from a Cherokee. The Comanche should have had a foot brake. The handbrake is a common swap thoug. The only “custom” part of this setup will be from the brake handle to the “equalizer”. From that point you use just stock components

Agreed. I was watching the manufacturer videos on that locker and they look quite problematic. A simple Aussie locker would work well also

You could also use the same style crimp connector that’s on the cable side of that pic:

I believe it is. Made by Eaton probably to GM spec. It reminds me a bit of the Auburn lockers. Still uses clutch packs.

A D44 from an MJ if you can find one is an easy swap especially if you will use a spring under axle configuration since the spring perches will be in the correct position. It’s the right width and lug pattern out of the box and bolts right in. In stock form it’s considered generally good for up to 35” tires. The 97 and later 8.25 or the liberty 8.25 is also a nice axle. I personally would never run another ford 8.8 axle unless it was free. And I’ve built many of them in the past.

The easiest bolt on kit is actually a supercharger. There are some nice kits here: https://www.boostedtech.com/solution-category/jeep-wrangler/ Turbos are great also but require more fab work due to the plumbing work they require and are hard to find as a kit for 4.0’s

The 7th picture is a set of rca cables probably for an aftermarket sub or amplifier. I can confirm all the rest of the answers here are correct as well on the other wiring plugs.

The D30 carrier break is 3.73 and numerically higher. I’m 100% positive on that.

Looking good

i believe the comp springs have almost the same installed height but the spring itself is thicker so a narrower seat ID is required. The Mopar springs are drop in though. That comp cam hasn’t been released yet but should be soon. It’s not really the ideal low end cam your looking for though. @Eagle is right. You need more of an RV style cam

Here is that listing:

Much more likely the block. There are some pictures floating around in here if the block cut in half to show the passages and they are super small. They could easily get clogged.