ghetdjc320

https://blackflamecustoms.com I used to run a set of GTR projectors in my YJ and they were just as nice. Excellent light dispersion and a sharp cutoff. The projectors I have now are made by black flame customs and have morimoto projectors, 35w 5500k H1 morimoto HID’s ballasts and relay harness. Starr also used to make a nice set but I think they are all gone now.

It’s easy for the drivetrain to transfer noise through various components. I had what sounded like a bad pinion bearing in the front axle. Turned out to be a bad transfer case front output pilot bearing that was making all the noise. Didn’t find it until after I had rebuilt my front diff.

What is your pressure regulator set to? If your using a stock style regulator on the fuel rail it will be set to 39psi. The fords are likely set to 3 bar (43.5psi) but some fords set the rates pressure at 39psi also. Keep the engine size correct. Set the fuel injectors up with the correct specs. Rated flow 24lbs at 43.5 psi. Actual system pressure (whatever the actual system pressure is). If you have no regulator and run the Holley pump at 60psi actual fuel pressure, the i hector pulse width will be far too low at idle. The terminator also requires the injector off time between 8-20v. Did you get that info in there? Let me know if you have any questions.

Blue flame customs, Morimoto projector retrofits with HID’s. There are no better headlights. They have been properly adjusted and do not blind any oncoming traffic.

Use the 94+ distributor on that. Much better cam sensor and is a straight bolt in. Make sure your indexing is perfect as well. You can see my recent post with a similar issue and the coil and indexing were to blame.

For driving on public roads, nothing beats a good quality projector housing. The light source is secondary. Many led’s are very bright to look at but don’t direct the light well and end up wasting light. They sacrifice precision for lumens. Off-road lighting of course can use light all over the place

Are you referring to the really big bearing that holds the original inner axle near the CAD? If so, there is no need to remove it as it should be contact the new one piece shaft but it can be popped out in the direction of the CAD opening. I have used a long piece of metal tubing with the carrier removed to get it out. It shouldn’t be contacting a 27 spline axle shaft though.

I haven’t seen the OP reply yet but just to confirm, you can use a 96 XJ obd2 ecu and simply splice in a 91-95 HO engine harness. Not too terribly difficult to make that setup a stand-alone efi system. That way no canbus gauges are needed.

Lol, darn squiggly lines!

Agreed, it’s a good looking truck stance. You don’t want it to look like a dog squatting if you ever put anything in back.

Did you try Novak? Local parts store? Summit racing or Jegs?

If your at 125* when -20 it would seem like 80* would put you well over 200*.

Terminator x has been used to power the 4.0 using stock cam and crank triggers. It was a mess to setup but it has been done. The hyperspark is the way to go, only downside is you loose cam timing for for full sequential. Still an very nice setup though. The 4.0 will like a bit more timing at idle (around 12* makes them happy). Which injectors are you using?

They will turn. Just go back and forth gently and they will realign. Those tabs keep them indexed

That’s a problem right there. Check that water pump part number. Cap and bottle need to be solid also. You running a 195 tstat?

You can adjust them one at a time starting from the lowest numbers. They will adjust without removal. Just takes some fiddling with it.

I’d get your temp gauge working asap. Check the part number for the water pump and make sure it’s the right one. Make sure your belt routing is correct and spinning the water pump counter clockwise. Try running it at idle and watch your temps. Check and make sure your upper radiator hose gets pressure (thermostat opening). Check your oil level. And check all your hose clamps and hoses for any leaks. One small leak and it will overheat. Now there is also a possibility you have a head gasket/head problem. But don’t go down that road yet. Possibly grab another radiator if everything else above checks out.

Yeah there are 4tabs on that cylinder that index the numbers and prevent them from being turned until you pull the whole cylinder. If you carefully heat the ends that hold the stew rod it will come out smoothly. It’s just a bit tricky

I can confirm the 96 cluster works just fine in the 91. All 91-96 xj/mj clusters are interchangeable and there were no canbus (obd2) clusters until 97 in the XJ. You can modify the odometer if you are very gently at working with tiny plastic parts and work gears. You’ll need an exacto knife and some heat to remove the worm gear and then the odometer cylinder. You’ll have to move the mileage forward to get to where you need to go.

What radiator are you running? What water pump? Have the engine and radiator been flushed? Has the heater core been flushed? What fans are your using?

A stand alone tube and fin will overheat your tranny. You need some sort of active cooling that will work at lower speeds. The stock tranny cooler is located on the cool side of the radiator so the idea that it will see the same temps as the engine is incorrect. The radiator acts more as a thermal “regulator”. The external cooler is only needed when the tranny itself is under additional load and generating more heat than normal (towing, crawling etc). The external cooler will only help the radiator “regulator” which is a far more effective active cooling system. A stand alone tube and fin cooler will not sufficiently cool your tranny. Keep in mind that the tranny is still getting a lot of heat transferred directly from the engine since they are bolted together. Plus, being an auto tranny, generates a lot of heat on its own, heat that requires more active cooling than only using a tube and fin setup. Stable temps are the key here. And the factory knew what they are doing. Not that it can’t be upgraded, but ditching the radiator setup for only a tube and fin “cooler” is not an upgrade.

Run it like the factory did (first through the radiator and then through an external cooler) and it will work great. Monitor your trans fluid temps for a while to verify the cooler is working well. One must keep in mind that just because your temp gauge is showing 210 does not mean that your tranny fluid is also running 210. That would only be the case if your radiator was non functional. The tranny cooler is connected to the “cool” side of the radiator where coolant temps should be well below 210 before reentering the block. The external cooler is only meant to drop the temps an extra few degrees. This was a well thought out design from the factory. If your engine cooling systems is in good working order and you use a factory style or similar external tranny cooler, the system will be in optimal operating temp range in pretty much all conditions.

The trans “cooler” in the radiator helps warm up the tranny fluid on cold days. Since it never gets below 80 here I bypassed it and just ran a moroso stand alone tranny cooler. The tranny needs to really keep a nice steady temperature ideally in about the 160* range. The stock radiator keeps it a bit on the hot side. There are pros and cons to both and heat does kill the aw4. Keeping the radiator cooler plus an external cooler and a gauge that monitors the trans fluid temps would be great all around for most places that see all 4 seasons.

A warm engine typically has higher compression numbers due to the differences in the coefficient between the cylinder walls and the piston and rings material. With those plugs, I’d be looking more into a cylinder head issue though. Pull the head and see what it all looks like then go from there.

Yikes that plug looks terrible! What cylinder is that from? Do they all look that way?