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It does look like there are clutches behind the spider gears but hard to tell for sure. Every time I would get my YJ washed in Mexico they would do the “engrasado”. Love it, kept everything from rusting and it looked new. Just a light spray oil over the entire underside. Looks like someone has done the same with this axle. Monterey? I spent some time in Saltillo. I remember climbing all around the waterfalls in Monterey. Nice place

That’s correct. The interlock is activated with the ignition switch. My 91 is that way

The WJ is a nice swap but this deal is unbeatable: https://teamcherokee.com/front-sway-bar-assembly-oem-jeep-cherokee-xj-1994-2001/ it’s a 28mm sway bar and rides very nice. Direct swap, just change the bushings to the 28mm size. Make sure you don’t currently have a 28mm bar as it’s possible some may have swapped it kn the past.

They did. I haven’t seen too many of them come up for sale though. Those items are in the accessory guides for those years.

So here is the plan: cumins 2.8 with the ax15. 3.55 gears for the diesel but bump up to some 31’s with maybe an OME lift and an add a leaf. I’m debating on the outside still.

Revised my guess price. Hadn’t seen the description. That bed looks awesome

Love the blue and silver dash combo. Clean truck. I’ll call this auction at 13,200. Any other guesses?

@eaglescout526 Could you sticky that info in the DIY and write ups area?

I’ll echo the above. Get the right tools, vacuum the system replace the dryer and use r12a or convert to r134a. Ultimately they all work very well. Vacuum that system out thoroughly though and let it run for a good while and then close the gauges to make sure the vacuum stays and there are no leaks. Also, don’t overcharge the system. Many only look at the low pressure side and it’s easy to overfill if you don’t weigh the refrigerant as @Minuit suggests. If the ac system is custom though you’ll have to play with the full until you get it dialed in.

That makes sense. The gauge sweeps aren’t just opposite either, the ranges are different. You could use a Dakota Digital converter though. Apparently I have this problem on my 90. Someone swapped in an HO cluster and it reads backwards. But as I said it’s not like one is 0-90 and the other is 90-0.

Do you happen to have a picture?

The hub height should be about 2.3x i currently running the AC Delco 252191 pump and it is 2.34. Do you have the correct (smooth) pulley? The pulley does run very close to the water pump housing but obviously with no interference.

It would need to be more like a plastic tubing

I was wondering if the tcu needed reprogramming to accommodate for tire size. I did adjust the transmission cable and the throttle position sensor is a new Mopar unit and is within spec. I was about to install the transgo shift kit and probably still will but was wondering if these shifts could be sorted out in another way. it’s very slow to kick down and very quick to go to a numerically higher gear

Negative, it’s under the passenger side behind a small plastic trim piece. Nothing really needs to be removed to see if. There are some little vacuum motors that move all the different doors for the hvac system. Probably just need some oil on the joints and linkage

Ahh this is for the rear axle?? Yeah, a gear change will likely be necessary. You’ll want to take a good look at those bearing caps and all the journal surfaces in the housing. Something went very wrong there. By chance was there some very heavy towing/off-roading recently.

Don’t forget the tie rod ends also if the have any play.

Lol, very true. I worked on a cluster and set it to 900,000. That was a pain to fix

what gears are in it?

I'm regards to the fuel pump, get a Bosch replacement in-tank pump specific to your 88 MJ. There are no advantages to an upgraded fuel pump on a stock engine. As to every other upgrade out there, the sky is the limit. the members here have done almost every “upgrade” there is and can provide a lot of feedback once you have more specific ideas in mind for mods. The first thing likely anyone will recommend though is doing the mods found on the Cruiser54 website. These “mods” are updates to the aging electrical system that will improve drive ability and reliability. Once those items and your “death wobble” have been addressed and you have a great running and driving truck, that the best place to start modding. Also don’t forget to start a build thread here: https://comancheclub.com/forum/8-member-projects-your-comanches/ You can get a lot of build direction there. But for specific mod or repair questions post them in this area for the most replies.

Agreed. Probably the large vent door near the passenger kick panel area.

As @Andy in Pa and @schardein mentioned, definitely need a rebuild but take a close look at your gears first. And there was no metal shavings in the fluid or left in the housing? There should be zero side to side play in the carrier. It should actually be less than zero and actually have a few thousandths of preload on the bearings. The shim packs should be sandwiched under the bearings on the carrier. Make sure to mark and identify each side for reinstallation. Also mark the carrier bearing caps so everything goes back together the same way. I have a sneaking suspicion though that you have a shim or two missing/eaten/shredded and are going to have to set this up as a new gearset. Let’s just hope the gears themselves aren’t too worn. Unless you were driving a lot in 4wd though I bet they are still within tolerance. Especially since you didn’t loose any oil.

Does the AW4 have a speed sensor it uses internally for shift points? Have an aw4 in my 91 4x4. I know the vss is in the tcase but was wondering if tcu is reading another internal tranny speed sensor. My shift points are just not right.

Almost looks like you lost a thick shim. That’s a tremendous amount of play for a carrier.

Sounds good! And remember, the xj/mj/tj d44’s are some of the “weaker” D44 options. They are still great little axles but the tube diameter is smaller than most 44’s. The strongest rear 44’s are the 98+ rodeo/passport rears along with the JK Rubicon 44’s. These axles all came with upgraded axle bearings, good size disk brakes, an 8.9” ring gear and a Dana 60 pinion. The axle shafts on the rodeo/passport axle measured a whopping 1 5/8” before necking down at the splines. The downside is the lug pattern which is 6x5.5. Definitely worth keeping an eye out for the d44 though from an MJ/XJ. There are rumors of D44’s under export model YJ’s also. I haven’t seen one but still worth a look. The KJ liberty axles weren’t too bad either. Disk brakes and 29 spline axles with an 8.25 ring gear. You would need to cutoff the old brackets and weld on new ones but other than that it’s fairly bolt-in. Same wheel patter as the front D30 also. An option that was extremely popular about 10 years ago was the Ford 8.8 from an Explorer. In my opinion it is far overrated and many junk yards have raised the prices since they knew Jeepers were looking for them. Still, if you can get one for free/cheap it’s not a terrible axle. Yo y mi esposa vivíamos en el estado de Oaxaca. Ella es originalmente del DF. Tenemos bastantes familiares y amigos en México. Nos hace falta regresar un día de estos