ghetdjc320

Those are Wagoneer axles. Good year for them also likely late 80’s. Probably have some pretty low gearing (2.72 3.07 was common. The axles are adaptable to an mj/xj using the TnT truss or you could sort out all your own brackets and geometry. I lived in Mexico for years and $600 is a rip for these axles though. I wheeled those axles all over the place on 35’s. The front is a low pinion axle which is a down side but the ability to put on some locking hubs is nice. From the factory they come with a slug that locks the axles all the time. A simple Warn kit fixes that. The brakes are a nice 12” rotor and they use the D52 style caliper which is readily available and offers decent braking. The axles themselves are quite heavy and will add a lot of unsprung weight. As for strength, the R&P on the front 44 are larger than the D30 for sure but the high pinion design of the MJ/XJ/YJ D30 is superior to the low pinion setup of the waggy axle. The high pinion D44 found in some Ford trucks is the cats meow for a 44. Just listing some pros and cons. For the right price I’d buy a set. Or better yet, grab the front only (for less than $300) and find a 98+ rodeo/passport rear. 8.9” ring gear, D60 pinion and disk brakes. Plus they are easy to find in 4.10-4.88 gearing. Now those are some very good 44 rears. Plus they have the same 6 on 5.5 pattern as the waggy front. This has been discussed in depth though, the low pinion 44 R&P is only marginally if any stronger than R&P on an HP30. The rest of the axle is another story.

I can comment that the 3.5 Metal Cloak tj springs also lift the xj 3.5” approx (depends on weight). I have a set of the 6” metal cloak springs now.

It’s a slippery slope. Try to pinpoint the issue before firing the parts cannon. I’d run a can of flush through the whole system again. As has been said before, these things are very easy to overheat if everything is not 100%. Before going the head gasket route, test your compression in each cylinder with all plugs removed and a full battery. If you need a radiator, just stay away from the cheap 2-3 core aluminum eBay/amazon ones. The regular parts store replacements have been decent (spectra premium, Murray etc). Otherwise it’s a big jump up in price to the next good radiator (novak, mishimoto etc). Most prefer a Stat or Mopar tstat. The open system is the newer style. Still a bit of a process to get it bled though.

Holly long posts Batman! I used that evap core (plate and fin style) and it took plenty of mods but works well. You’ll need to get the evap core probe worked out also for the ac select to work. I’d also recommend keeping the killmat off of the floor. There are so many leak spots in these trucks. Every single body seam is another possible leak point. I had redone my floors and applied dynamite over it all. 3-4 years of pinhole leaks and the floors had to be redone. Removing that stuff was brutal

I’ve bought lots of parts from headlight revolution. They are a good supplier as is “the retrofit source”. The problem with HR is that the good quality projector setups from both Starr and GTR don’t exist anymore. There are also very few 5x7/7x6 led options that stick around more than a couple of years. Another challenge is the depth that is available in a typical 5x7 headlight bucket. They don’t allow for many projector housing options so we’re left with short sealed style lights which simply have a very difficult time getting a good light pattern. Edit: took another shot of my light patter against the side of a hill by the house. The truck was sitting up at a bit of an angle. The cutoff is just below drivers eyes on most cars when they are approaching in oncoming traffic.

https://blackflamecustoms.com I used to run a set of GTR projectors in my YJ and they were just as nice. Excellent light dispersion and a sharp cutoff. The projectors I have now are made by black flame customs and have morimoto projectors, 35w 5500k H1 morimoto HID’s ballasts and relay harness. Starr also used to make a nice set but I think they are all gone now.

It’s easy for the drivetrain to transfer noise through various components. I had what sounded like a bad pinion bearing in the front axle. Turned out to be a bad transfer case front output pilot bearing that was making all the noise. Didn’t find it until after I had rebuilt my front diff.

What is your pressure regulator set to? If your using a stock style regulator on the fuel rail it will be set to 39psi. The fords are likely set to 3 bar (43.5psi) but some fords set the rates pressure at 39psi also. Keep the engine size correct. Set the fuel injectors up with the correct specs. Rated flow 24lbs at 43.5 psi. Actual system pressure (whatever the actual system pressure is). If you have no regulator and run the Holley pump at 60psi actual fuel pressure, the i hector pulse width will be far too low at idle. The terminator also requires the injector off time between 8-20v. Did you get that info in there? Let me know if you have any questions.

Blue flame customs, Morimoto projector retrofits with HID’s. There are no better headlights. They have been properly adjusted and do not blind any oncoming traffic.

Use the 94+ distributor on that. Much better cam sensor and is a straight bolt in. Make sure your indexing is perfect as well. You can see my recent post with a similar issue and the coil and indexing were to blame.

For driving on public roads, nothing beats a good quality projector housing. The light source is secondary. Many led’s are very bright to look at but don’t direct the light well and end up wasting light. They sacrifice precision for lumens. Off-road lighting of course can use light all over the place

Are you referring to the really big bearing that holds the original inner axle near the CAD? If so, there is no need to remove it as it should be contact the new one piece shaft but it can be popped out in the direction of the CAD opening. I have used a long piece of metal tubing with the carrier removed to get it out. It shouldn’t be contacting a 27 spline axle shaft though.

I haven’t seen the OP reply yet but just to confirm, you can use a 96 XJ obd2 ecu and simply splice in a 91-95 HO engine harness. Not too terribly difficult to make that setup a stand-alone efi system. That way no canbus gauges are needed.

Lol, darn squiggly lines!

Agreed, it’s a good looking truck stance. You don’t want it to look like a dog squatting if you ever put anything in back.

Did you try Novak? Local parts store? Summit racing or Jegs?

If your at 125* when -20 it would seem like 80* would put you well over 200*.

Terminator x has been used to power the 4.0 using stock cam and crank triggers. It was a mess to setup but it has been done. The hyperspark is the way to go, only downside is you loose cam timing for for full sequential. Still an very nice setup though. The 4.0 will like a bit more timing at idle (around 12* makes them happy). Which injectors are you using?

They will turn. Just go back and forth gently and they will realign. Those tabs keep them indexed

That’s a problem right there. Check that water pump part number. Cap and bottle need to be solid also. You running a 195 tstat?

You can adjust them one at a time starting from the lowest numbers. They will adjust without removal. Just takes some fiddling with it.

I’d get your temp gauge working asap. Check the part number for the water pump and make sure it’s the right one. Make sure your belt routing is correct and spinning the water pump counter clockwise. Try running it at idle and watch your temps. Check and make sure your upper radiator hose gets pressure (thermostat opening). Check your oil level. And check all your hose clamps and hoses for any leaks. One small leak and it will overheat. Now there is also a possibility you have a head gasket/head problem. But don’t go down that road yet. Possibly grab another radiator if everything else above checks out.

Yeah there are 4tabs on that cylinder that index the numbers and prevent them from being turned until you pull the whole cylinder. If you carefully heat the ends that hold the stew rod it will come out smoothly. It’s just a bit tricky

I can confirm the 96 cluster works just fine in the 91. All 91-96 xj/mj clusters are interchangeable and there were no canbus (obd2) clusters until 97 in the XJ. You can modify the odometer if you are very gently at working with tiny plastic parts and work gears. You’ll need an exacto knife and some heat to remove the worm gear and then the odometer cylinder. You’ll have to move the mileage forward to get to where you need to go.

What radiator are you running? What water pump? Have the engine and radiator been flushed? Has the heater core been flushed? What fans are your using?