ghetdjc320

You’ll have to search the catalog for bilstein and look at 3 main items. The shock mounts on each end (stem vs eye), the extended and collapsed length and the valving

Yeah I thought it may keep running without it especially in closed loop but it’s shuts off immediately. Something changed with the cam sensor in the 94 model also. I switched to a 95 dizzy with cam sensor and it plugs right in.

Can’t quite read the numbers off of the table. Looks like an HP tuners map

Why would that be helpful? The op has an aftermarket ecu. Knowing the cam specs may be nice if not stock though.

Are those the measurements from full droop to your bump stops? I normally get a shock about 1” shorter than the length needed at full stuff (when the bump stop is compressed/bottomed out). Sounds like a 10” travel shock should work for you. You’ll always get more droop though when flexing on the trail with the weight of the truck shifting around. As for where to buy the shocks, Amazon is where I’ve gotten them in the past after looking up the part number in the online Bilstein catalog for the right length. Summit stocks almost all of them also. Accutune is also great if you’d like to have the valving adjusted for your rig right off the bat. They tune both fox and bilsteins and have them in stock. As for which valving to pick on your own, you’ll have to guestimate based on the weight you’ll be carrying and the road you’ll be driving frequently.

I’m following up on this one. Thanks!

I’d also suggest running 31’s with maybe a very mild or no lift. 33’s require quite a bit more work.

Oooh tell us more! The 4.0 was always computer controlled and the timing was not adjusted. The distributor was simply “phased” into the correct position and the ecu ran the timing off of its preprogrammed table. That being said I know WOT timing is a conservative 28* on both obd1 and obd2 4.0’s. Base timing is probably somewhere between 10-14. I’m adjusting my timing on my built 4.0 to 14* at idle with 34* all in. If you wanted to be a bit more cautious 12* base and 32* all in would be a good place to start. how are you adjusting timing? Are you reprogramming the ecu or do you have an hei installed? Please let us know what sort of stand alone ecu you have on your rig. Pics would be great.

The lines are 3/16. If you buy any replacement lines you can use the regular old steel lines but it’s much easier to use the newer copper nickel lines. Most auto parts stores have started to carry them. The rental flare tool has a tough time double flaring steel line. I’d replace the line from the load sensing valve down to the axle. However, if your willing to take some more time and invest a bit more for a long term solution then do what @Pete M suggests and run a new line back from the distribution block under the hood to the rear axle. This will eliminate the load sensing valve along with its convoluted (albeit ingenious) shuttle valve and bypass lines. the fitting size for the load sensing valve to axle is 3/16 inverted flare. Reflaring what’s left of that existing rusted line will be brutal with a rental flare tool.

That’s the thing, they don’t normally get very hot. Thus no factory provision for a cooler like an automatic. CPS could be an issue but it does seem like the HO CPS were less finicky with heat than the Renix era ones. I have been having very similar issues on my HO and have narrowed it down to the cam sensor and/or coil. Both of these get plenty hot as well and can display similar symptoms. CPS handles ignition timing, cam sensor handles fuel timing. The HO will not run without the cam sensor. But all 3 of those items can behave in a similar fashion.

Those springs will settle a lot from where they are now. Between that and a 1” pitman drop you should be good. As Pete mentioned, make sure the track bar and drag link are approximately the same length and same angle. That is crucial to good handling. A 1” pitman drop and 1” track bar drop should be good with that TNT truss. What drop bracket are you using for the track bar? The track bar sees a lot of load and needs to be super solid. A cross brace for the track bar is very helpful. Do you have a winch, bumper or anything else getting mounted up front? Also, add a couple of plug welds to those threaded inserts for the heims. Especially helpful with the tubing you’re using which has a welded seam. Looking good so far!

What year D35 do you have?

You running heim steering? Post a pic of you setup when you can. I run ZJ steering o 5.5” of lift with no drop pitman and zero bind.

From the pic, that’s a nice stance. I don’t see any squat. Those RE coils will definitely settle also

Post pics of what it looks like. The rake is hard to measure unless you use the factory measuring points

That is one real issue. @Pete M it’s true that it’s similar to rim backspacing but a 2 piece adapter relies on 3 sets of fasteners per wheel. It’s a lot of bolts upon bolts upon bolts all grabbing into bits of aluminum.

I’m not talking about spacers guys. Spacers with longer studs are no problem. 1 piece adapters are ok too. 2 piece adapters are asking for trouble.

16” tires are much more common in metric sizes. Look for the metric equivalent to what you need like 305/70/16 or similar. There is one factor I’ll bring up as well, IMO 2 piece adapters are pushing it when it comes to safety. You now have 3 sets of fasteners. Also, a decent 2 piece adapter will be 2” thick. Any thinner and your really looking at thin mating surfaces. I’d recommend just getting some tires for whatever rims you happen to have or can get that fit those axles. Check your local tire shop for used tire availability. Junk yards too

FSJ 44’s are normally 6 lug. Is that what yours are? If so you would need some really expensive 2 piece lug adapters that would probably not be worth the cost.

An alternative would be the accel coil. It’s a Mopar recommended part

Get the wheel under it than adjust as you want

@eaglescout526 Can help you out

It’s all about the factory measuring points for ride height. The rear measurement will be approx 6” and the front 6.75”. That is a factory ride height from the FSM. This doesn’t mean that the front site .75” higher. After all, think about all the bends in the frame. If we were dealing with a frame that was absolutely flat on the bottom and perfectly parallel to the road that would be a whole different story. As many have stated though, you can simply adjust ride height to dial in what you need with minor adjustments like using an acos coil mount, a coil spacer and/or longer shackles. But if you were to take a stock truck that sits at stock original ride height and lifted it an equal amount both front and rear, you would preserve the factory rake. Leveling “kits” typically raise only the front of a vehicle to “level” the rig. But a kit that lifts equal amounts both front and rear over stock will preserve the factory rake. Keep in mind that lift height numbers given by manufacturers for springs are typically based on oem ride heights. Some rigs ride higher or lower than stock so you actual lift height varies from one vehicle to the next.

O2 replaced with NTK oem. No difference. It’s definitely not mechanical. Either the spark or fuel is cutting momentarily

To attain factory rake (which is about +/- 2”) the front measurement needs to be approx 3/4” higher than the rear using the above technique from the FSM.